Telebeam Installation

Discussion in 'Project Photos' started by Jitender, Dec 8, 2016.

  1. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Some more progress since last post.

    Painted all plastered surfaces with bare plaster paint, ended up buying a fresh tub and much easier to apply as had no bits. Even with all the time spent sanding and filling prior to painting, any minor defects are shown once its painted, so any filling and sanding again.

    Dry fitted all the lights to mark holes for fixtures, still need to do radiator,I have kept the measurements on a sheet of paper.

    Skirting board has been fitted in landing, sanding over fixing holes still needs doing.

    Internal corners scribed.

    Went with the mesh matting prior to plastering, instead of plasterboard.

    End of stair trimmer had grain end, so I glued and nailed a trim of wood to make it all neat. Didn't expect a good paint finish hence the reason for this.
    KIAB and Hollie like this.
  2. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Old clean tights are great for straining bits out of the paint.:)
  3. Hollie

    Hollie Member

    Do you own many? :p:D
    KIAB likes this.
  4. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    They are given feely.:rolleyes:
    Hollie likes this.
  5. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Today I have managed to fit the fire door for loft.

    Door was purchased from Magnet, they didn't have an oak blank so went for an ash/maple effect one.

    Door was hung on the longest side, if it were hinged on the smaller side then it would hit the ceiling so restrict opening considerably. Tried this after the angle was cut and prior to fitting hinges.

    Frame was positioned to allow clearance for carpet, so avoid having to cut anything off the bottom. aiming for 5-6mm gap once carpet and underlay is fitted.

    This is the max it will open, just past 90 degrees so ok. Need to finish and lip the top, need to source some matching wood.

    Hard to get a photo on the top, but able to retain the fire label.

    Off cut from door

    1 1/2 pairs (3) of hinges used. Used the trimmer router to cut out most of the recces before finishing off with chisel. Made a hinge jig last year, but needs remaking as worn out.

    Fitted door stops and rest of architraves.

    When frame was fitted prior to plastering made sure the hinge side was plumb and flat. The latch side I didn't screw in as wanted to option of adjusting if needed. Really should have fitted door before plastering, as packing out would be harder as no access, plasterer plaster upto the frames. Luckily the gap is acceptable.

    A tool I purchased a few years ago much not had much use was this. It automatically halves the angles, works similar to a sliding bevel. Saved so much time. Still used sliding bevel to copy the half angle so I could replicate this on the miter saw. Once the angle was set, bot sides of the architraves were cut. Some pieces had to be laid upside down.


    View from inside

    View from outside.
    Architrave had to be cut to slope of roof. A little tricky.

    View from outside.
    Not much room to install architrave down latch side, so stopped the architrave at wall. Forgot to allow for this on when building the stud wall :oops:
    Top architrave reduced in width for top piece to fit to ceiling, (hard to see on photo).

    Making start on skirting boards. Able to push the architrave out tight to skirting before nailing to close of minor gap.

    Last edited: May 8, 2018
    Dr Bodgit and KIAB like this.
  6. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Tomorrow will be fitting handle and latch.
  7. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Made the loft access frames.

    Timber was machined to size incorpartaing strip for fixing instrumescent/acoustic strip.

    Used this made up rebate jig for router. Depth of rebate is 10mm.


    Frame getting glued and clamped up. Screws secure in place.

    Frames were made up with skirting board in consideration. Fixed two off cuts in corner to help hold frame in place.

    Setting frame in position using level and off cut of skirting board so I get the same gap around it similar to architraves.

    Frame gets fixed in, and gaps are sealed with foam. Skirting board positioned in place and marked, then notched out to accept the architrave. Not sure if this is the correct way to do it but looks ok.

    Foam is trimmed flush.

    Architrave is then finished around the frame.

    Intricate job, had to go back to chop saw on occasions to remove fine slither to get good fit. Corners were glues and pinned in with nail at either side.

    Notch detail, on some architraves have had to use a sharp chisel to plane a fraction of the top so it is flush with the skirting boards.

    The front and back needed two lengths of skirting joined together as only come in 4.2m lengths. Decided to put join on the side of skirting so is less visible.

    Skirting board was beveled cut at 45 degrees.

    Joining piece had to be cut with same angle and the stop so it fits upto the architrave. This was the second attempt as first one was too short.

    Piece glued in, does get pinned in through the joint.

    Finished frame. Any minor gaps filled and sanded flush
    KIAB, Jord86 and Dr Bodgit like this.
  8. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    All skirting boards and architraves.

    Holes have been filled and knot sealed with knotting solution prior to painting.

    On the other side of eaves skirting board had to be joined using scarf joint, both corresponding sides get cut at 45 degrees. Joint gets glued and pinned to joint two halves together. After drying joint is sanded flush to help blend in.

    Door stops cut ready for doors, not fixed in. Stops cut at 45 miters at corners.

    Fitted door lock and handle today.

    Lock is a DIN lock, which gives the escutcheon more spacing between the handle spindle.

    Used souber lock jig to drill out the mortise for lock, had to order a 16.5mm cutter for this as 19mm would have been too big. Forend was recessed using a router and fished by chisel.

    Latch plat fitted in lock jamb. Couldn't use router as had already fitted the stops prior.

    Most 2nd fix woodwork is now complete in loft. Just have 4 x door hatches to make. Looking to use ash faced ply or MDF.
    KIAB and Jord86 like this.
  9. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Today I have taken the wall down (paramount plasterboard). This formed part of the original bedroom wall and was cut to provide a barrier during the work. Now it is time for it to go...

    There was a joint at the top and a knife used to cut through the mesh tape to stop any damage to remaining plasterboard.
    A long level is used to draw a level line on the plasterboard.

    Plasterboard is cut to the line. It slightly higher than the floorboard, so will need some packers when i fit the base rail for the balustrade.
    KIAB likes this.
  10. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Ordered some stair parts.

    Will be using 32mm spindles and using base rail to match.

    This is what the base rail looks like. There is a primed and pine version available. Went for pine as wanted to fit some trim.

    In my view didn't look rights with the corner edge showing. The original base rail for the stairs has the stringer housing routed out and the sides have been roundel over which gives a much better look.

    Decided to fix some quadrant beading to complete the look. Could have used Scotia beading also.

    It worked out that 15x15mm beading would work. Used glue and a pin nailer which I have just bought to help me, useful for this kind of stuff.

    A lot of work went into filling any gaps, used a small block plane to help blend two surfaces together and finishing off with sandpaper. Would stick out when painted if hadn't spent time doing this.

    Angle cut using sliding bevel and chop saw. Cut slightly over and used fine pull saw to close the gap. Base rail had a slight twist. Looks much better. I can see why they don't supply then already machined, but different thickness of stinger would be a issue so just make them universal. Maybe if I had ordered them when stairs had been made they bay have been like this?

    Finished the joint where plasterboard edge would bee seen using a trim, joint was mitered. Slight different thickness in material meant I had to plane and sand to blend in.

    Next on the list is fitting the oak hand rail. Thinking of best way to do this. May make a mortise and tenon but need to be very accurate as can't use filler and If I mess up could be a lot of money wasted. Gulp...
    Jord86 and KIAB like this.
  11. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Do a trial run with some other timber first, will highlight any possible glitches/snags.
    Jitender likes this.
  12. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Fitted the handrail today.

    Didn't do a trial run, just went straight onto the real think. Turned out ok.

    Marked the finished height of handrail on newel post, seems to be 900-1000mm vertical from pitch line.

    A tenon was cut from the handrail. Took a while to cut this out and used a fine Japanese pull saw.from handrail. This is the bottom piece.

    Tennon cut for upper end of handrail.

    Once tenons were cut on the handrail, I was able to transfer the measurements to the post. Depth of mortise was about 25mm.

    A few trail fits before gluing into place, used long timber screws to pull everything together. Used fine thin blade to go around to help close up the gap. Once everything is happy it gets glued into place. Needed to force the rail in

    Top post

    Screw fixed through post, counter-bored.

    Made up a plug to cover up screw hole and hammered in.

    Plug get cut flush and sanded.

    Cut one spindle to help work out the spacing. Set everything out with a 4" spacing, but didn't work out. I then added one to the number of total spindles needed to fill the run. The number is then divided by this plus one, which gives the centre-line of the spindles.

    Spindle temporally in place showing gap is less than 100mm or 4".

    Using stopped chamfered spindles, decided to have the bottom piece longer than the top for better effect. Glad I went for prime ones as painting would be a pain.
    Jord86, BMC2000 and KIAB like this.
  13. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Seen that done with a longer tenon,& a pin driven through tenon from side,not end.

    Quailty work as usual from Jit.:)
  14. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Started on the landing balustrade. Decided to make up a base rail, the stair rail wouldn't look right and would leave an unfished edge. Used pine 22x90mm to form the base-rail to hold spindles.


    Positioned slightly inward of newel post. And joined with 45 degrees cut, just glued and pinned no other joints, seems strong. Spindle position marked to center-line of newel post.

    Because stair spindle was set in, I had to extend the timber to make it wide, this was glued and clamped. The angle on here was made by intersecting at the corner on plasterboard and where both rails met, made the mistake of cutting in the line :oops: so have lost a few mm from the corner, have had to sand and form the pattern to help blend in.

    While I had the opportunity replaces this MDF piece with some plasterboard.

    Stuck on with foam and caulked the corner joint, won't be skimming just paint on top.

    For the spindles I decided to make up a jig so I could trench a housing for each spindle. This was made up to the exact fitting side, as using a flush trim with top bearing.

    Screws were positioned wither side to hold jig in place. I was able to positin screws in the center of each spindle so it would be hidden.

    Top bearing flush trim bit fitted in router. Found a dust extractor helping to keep the small housing clear.

    Routed out housing need to clean up corners, found it was easier to do this with the jig still in place and using this as a guide for chisel.

    Result is a nice fitting housing for each spindle.:) Jig made from scrap pieces and took only minit4es to make, but saved so much time, wouldn't like to be doing all these by hand! Option was therse to just cut the spindls flush to the board but hoping this is a much better idea and helps keep them in place with little movement.

    Base rail in place, earlier thread tells why it was important to cut the plasterboard level. Prior to fitting the base rail I used a 6ft level to sand down and high spots.

    Screws fixed at every 3rd spindle to hold secure. Packers used on carpet edge to bring level at each fixing point.

    Base-rail showing overhang, used router to round over the edge. The bit I had I think the bearing was slightly smaller so has resulted in an ovolo shape, not what I was after but I can live with this.

    I know the wood will dry and move over time, so it positioned with the grain facing down so it doesn't cup up - leaving a gap. Will run a bead of caulk down edge prior to finishing.
    KIAB and Jord86 like this.
  15. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    Wow that's really impressive. I wouldn't know where to start with this carpentry stuff.
  16. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Really impressed with the rail. Made the Banister rail today, unfortunately when I came to take some pictures the battery was low, should get some tommorw.

    Spent entire day making the rail, need to keep checking measurements.

    Half day wasted when I cut the tennons in the newel posts, in error I took my measurements from a different point, i.e from inside the spindles, and after all the work getting a perfect fit I found that the rail was out of plumb when spindles would be fitted.

    Stairs I found are really hard to do so many complex angles to take into account.

    Because the corner pieces had only been glued for a few hours was able to tap them apart and had some leftover hand rail.

    Learning things everyday.
  17. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Original post at the top of existing stairs, this stub handrail was butted up to the plasterboard stud wall, which was removed earlier.


    Newel post had mortise cut out for tenon.

    Handrail stub removed, notice there was a hole in the side of post from looking inside the mortise, used for dowel connection, although it wasn't used.

    Oak handrail cut at 45 degrees, this was the second attempt for both returns as messed up yesterday:(. Found applying masking tape helped minimize any tear out, fine blade used in saw. Tenon cut to depth of 2" to match existing mortise.

    Paint removed to show hole had been filled with filler.

    Handrail getting clamped with glue, hammered in a wooden dowel (8mm), Would have been better to use a hardwood one. Two spindles cut to same length and positioned on each corner so all spindles would be cut to same length.

    Mortise was slightly larger so tapped in a wedge,to hold secure. Needs trimming once set.

    Handrail at new stairs clamped, this handrail had been pined at the corners to hold it in place during glue up.

    Punched nails deeper and made up a small pellet and glued to fill the hole.

    Finished joint. Handrail is very study and provides good support. The rest of the spindles have been cut to the same size and fit in the hole. A bit safer now with the handrail in place!

    Ordered a new set of oak newels caps and will be fitting them to all the newel posts.

    Original one was nailed on. Think wood is mahogany? The other side nails aren't shown or no sign of filler, so can only think that the fitter would have cut the heads off nails and pre-drilled holes in the cap so nails could be hammered in.

  18. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Only carried out several small jobs over the week to help bring the project to a close.

    Sharp corners rounded off on both handrails using sandpaper to give softer look.

    The gap behind the newel post and wall was filled with foam, this help secure the post making it more sturdy. The finished height was cut square prior.

    Quadrant filler peice pinned to hide the gap between post and architrave.

    New oak newel post cap temporarily fitted, had to notch the architrave more so I could get it to fit on. Going to replace all post caps like this to match oak handrails.

    The gap between stair stringer and wall was filled in using strip wood and scribed in. Will be able to paint and look neater than leaving a gap.

    The gap underneath the stairs was filled in using small piece of plasterboard, cut to shape for best fit, some foam pumped into the gap and on the underside of plasterboard prior to fitting in. Piece was set in a few mm below finished surface. Thin layer of filler used to skim the small surface. May have been better to have done this prior to skimming the ceiling so the joint could be taped to prevent any fine hairline crack apperaing in future..

    The end of newel post, small off-cut of wood cut to overall sized and routerd along the edge to make the end more attractive and look similar to the house stair. Bit was a bit blunt so had burn marks. Tricky to route the edge on such a small piece, so it was screwed to a board.

    Loft door, there was a gap between the architrave and slop of ceiling which would have been difficult to paint and get brush in, so filled the gap with a strip of wood by gluing it to the architrave.
    Jord86 and KIAB like this.
  19. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Making up the doors for the 4x hatches.

    A sheet of 19mm Ash veneered MDF was purchased, they didn't do plywood.

    Door was cut to size using track saw and allowances made for clearances as well as 6mm lippings all the way around.

    Battens were glued and screw around the edges to provide support and rigidity and allowed a recess so I could fit insulation.

    Edges were planed flush and sanded where necessary.

    Lippings glued and pinned around all edges, corners were mitered. The width of the lippings is slightly less, but not too bothered as won't be seen and this was the biggest available in the shop.

    Used 76mm hinges and recces were cut out using jig. Was thinking of using 102mm hinges but looked too big for size of door. Later found that wider leaf ones are available. Will need to glue a packer behind the hing to provide some support to the hinge.

    Using some left over 25mm celotex, insulation was cut to fit in the recess.

    Door closed, Find that the latch side is catching on the bottom of the lining. This could be because of not fully supporting behind the hinge.

    If the packing doesn't work, then a thin piece of metal will be fixed at the bottom of the lining to help raise the door when shut. This is with the shim in place.

    Not sure about which handle or lock to fit?

    Think I will go for something like this


    Ordered instrumescent strips to fit in the linings, the were purchased from ironmongery direct and they are fire as well as acoustic rated.

    Jord86 and KIAB like this.
  20. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Completed another door today.

    Any minor adjustments were made on the hinge side, by packing it out so it retains a consistent gap around the door. Used this method on the large door that was catching at the bottom, and seems to have sorted it.

    Going to fit flush pull handles. Used router to cut out recess freehand, doesn't need to be exact, made it slightly deeper, and the fit is quite tight. 2 small screws were provided to fix either side.



    The acoustic/fire strip has been fitted, used jigsaw to cut out the strip. Maybe a good idea I went for narrow hinges, as one of tow of the rubber strips remain providing a seal.

    25mm celotex fitted, to provide insulation. Snug fit.

    Really happy with the doors, and would have cost a small fortune to have made specially by someone. The closing is good, and a magnetic latch may be all that is required. If I fitted another latch then seal could be compromised.
    KIAB and Jord86 like this.

Share This Page