Telebeam Installation

Discussion in 'Project Photos' started by Jitender, Dec 8, 2016.

  1. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    Some more progress since last post.

    Painted all plastered surfaces with bare plaster paint, ended up buying a fresh tub and much easier to apply as had no bits. Even with all the time spent sanding and filling prior to painting, any minor defects are shown once its painted, so any filling and sanding again.

    Dry fitted all the lights to mark holes for fixtures, still need to do radiator,I have kept the measurements on a sheet of paper.

    Skirting board has been fitted in landing, sanding over fixing holes still needs doing.

    Internal corners scribed.

    Went with the mesh matting prior to plastering, instead of plasterboard.

    End of stair trimmer had grain end, so I glued and nailed a trim of wood to make it all neat. Didn't expect a good paint finish hence the reason for this.
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  2. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    Old clean tights are great for straining bits out of the paint.:)
  3. Hollie

    Hollie New Member

    Do you own many? :p:D
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  4. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    They are given feely.:rolleyes:
    Hollie likes this.
  5. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    Today I have managed to fit the fire door for loft.

    Door was purchased from Magnet, they didn't have an oak blank so went for an ash/maple effect one.

    Door was hung on the longest side, if it were hinged on the smaller side then it would hit the ceiling so restrict opening considerably. Tried this after the angle was cut and prior to fitting hinges.

    Frame was positioned to allow clearance for carpet, so avoid having to cut anything off the bottom. aiming for 5-6mm gap once carpet and underlay is fitted.

    This is the max it will open, just past 90 degrees so ok. Need to finish and lip the top, need to source some matching wood.

    Hard to get a photo on the top, but able to retain the fire label.

    Off cut from door

    1 1/2 pairs (3) of hinges used. Used the trimmer router to cut out most of the recces before finishing off with chisel. Made a hinge jig last year, but needs remaking as worn out.

    Fitted door stops and rest of architraves.

    When frame was fitted prior to plastering made sure the hinge side was plumb and flat. The latch side I didn't screw in as wanted to option of adjusting if needed. Really should have fitted door before plastering, as packing out would be harder as no access, plasterer plaster upto the frames. Luckily the gap is acceptable.

    A tool I purchased a few years ago much not had much use was this. It automatically halves the angles, works similar to a sliding bevel. Saved so much time. Still used sliding bevel to copy the half angle so I could replicate this on the miter saw. Once the angle was set, bot sides of the architraves were cut. Some pieces had to be laid upside down.


    View from inside

    View from outside.
    Architrave had to be cut to slope of roof. A little tricky.

    View from outside.
    Not much room to install architrave down latch side, so stopped the architrave at wall. Forgot to allow for this on when building the stud wall :oops:
    Top architrave reduced in width for top piece to fit to ceiling, (hard to see on photo).

    Making start on skirting boards. Able to push the architrave out tight to skirting before nailing to close of minor gap.

    Last edited: May 8, 2018
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  6. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    Tomorrow will be fitting handle and latch.
  7. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    Made the loft access frames.

    Timber was machined to size incorpartaing strip for fixing instrumescent/acoustic strip.

    Used this made up rebate jig for router. Depth of rebate is 10mm.


    Frame getting glued and clamped up. Screws secure in place.

    Frames were made up with skirting board in consideration. Fixed two off cuts in corner to help hold frame in place.

    Setting frame in position using level and off cut of skirting board so I get the same gap around it similar to architraves.

    Frame gets fixed in, and gaps are sealed with foam. Skirting board positioned in place and marked, then notched out to accept the architrave. Not sure if this is the correct way to do it but looks ok.

    Foam is trimmed flush.

    Architrave is then finished around the frame.

    Intricate job, had to go back to chop saw on occasions to remove fine slither to get good fit. Corners were glues and pinned in with nail at either side.

    Notch detail, on some architraves have had to use a sharp chisel to plane a fraction of the top so it is flush with the skirting boards.

    The front and back needed two lengths of skirting joined together as only come in 4.2m lengths. Decided to put join on the side of skirting so is less visible.

    Skirting board was beveled cut at 45 degrees.

    Joining piece had to be cut with same angle and the stop so it fits upto the architrave. This was the second attempt as first one was too short.

    Piece glued in, does get pinned in through the joint.

    Finished frame. Any minor gaps filled and sanded flush
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  8. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    All skirting boards and architraves.

    Holes have been filled and knot sealed with knotting solution prior to painting.

    On the other side of eaves skirting board had to be joined using scarf joint, both corresponding sides get cut at 45 degrees. Joint gets glued and pinned to joint two halves together. After drying joint is sanded flush to help blend in.

    Door stops cut ready for doors, not fixed in. Stops cut at 45 miters at corners.

    Fitted door lock and handle today.

    Lock is a DIN lock, which gives the escutcheon more spacing between the handle spindle.

    Used souber lock jig to drill out the mortise for lock, had to order a 16.5mm cutter for this as 19mm would have been too big. Forend was recessed using a router and fished by chisel.

    Latch plat fitted in lock jamb. Couldn't use router as had already fitted the stops prior.

    Most 2nd fix woodwork is now complete in loft. Just have 4 x door hatches to make. Looking to use ash faced ply or MDF.
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  9. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    Today I have taken the wall down (paramount plasterboard). This formed part of the original bedroom wall and was cut to provide a barrier during the work. Now it is time for it to go...

    There was a joint at the top and a knife used to cut through the mesh tape to stop any damage to remaining plasterboard.
    A long level is used to draw a level line on the plasterboard.

    Plasterboard is cut to the line. It slightly higher than the floorboard, so will need some packers when i fit the base rail for the balustrade.
    KIAB likes this.
  10. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    Ordered some stair parts.

    Will be using 32mm spindles and using base rail to match.

    This is what the base rail looks like. There is a primed and pine version available. Went for pine as wanted to fit some trim.

    In my view didn't look rights with the corner edge showing. The original base rail for the stairs has the stringer housing routed out and the sides have been roundel over which gives a much better look.

    Decided to fix some quadrant beading to complete the look. Could have used Scotia beading also.

    It worked out that 15x15mm beading would work. Used glue and a pin nailer which I have just bought to help me, useful for this kind of stuff.

    A lot of work went into filling any gaps, used a small block plane to help blend two surfaces together and finishing off with sandpaper. Would stick out when painted if hadn't spent time doing this.

    Angle cut using sliding bevel and chop saw. Cut slightly over and used fine pull saw to close the gap. Base rail had a slight twist. Looks much better. I can see why they don't supply then already machined, but different thickness of stinger would be a issue so just make them universal. Maybe if I had ordered them when stairs had been made they bay have been like this?

    Finished the joint where plasterboard edge would bee seen using a trim, joint was mitered. Slight different thickness in material meant I had to plane and sand to blend in.

    Next on the list is fitting the oak hand rail. Thinking of best way to do this. May make a mortise and tenon but need to be very accurate as can't use filler and If I mess up could be a lot of money wasted. Gulp...
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  11. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    Do a trial run with some other timber first, will highlight any possible glitches/snags.
    Jitender likes this.
  12. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    Fitted the handrail today.

    Didn't do a trial run, just went straight onto the real think. Turned out ok.

    Marked the finished height of handrail on newel post, seems to be 900-1000mm vertical from pitch line.

    A tenon was cut from the handrail. Took a while to cut this out and used a fine Japanese pull saw.from handrail. This is the bottom piece.

    Tennon cut for upper end of handrail.

    Once tenons were cut on the handrail, I was able to transfer the measurements to the post. Depth of mortise was about 25mm.

    A few trail fits before gluing into place, used long timber screws to pull everything together. Used fine thin blade to go around to help close up the gap. Once everything is happy it gets glued into place. Needed to force the rail in

    Top post

    Screw fixed through post, counter-bored.

    Made up a plug to cover up screw hole and hammered in.

    Plug get cut flush and sanded.

    Cut one spindle to help work out the spacing. Set everything out with a 4" spacing, but didn't work out. I then added one to the number of total spindles needed to fill the run. The number is then divided by this plus one, which gives the centre-line of the spindles.

    Spindle temporally in place showing gap is less than 100mm or 4".

    Using stopped chamfered spindles, decided to have the bottom piece longer than the top for better effect. Glad I went for prime ones as painting would be a pain.
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  13. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    Seen that done with a longer tenon,& a pin driven through tenon from side,not end.

    Quailty work as usual from Jit.:)

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