so you can only pack on wall plates, hard work on your own i should think, but i reckon it will be easier to laser mark 1st and then pack beams rather than using a bubble level as kool says, it's an interesting project, keep updating on progress
Th extenders only rest on the wall plate, cant be packed underneath the beams as clearance is require. There will obviously some deflection, otherwise it could have pushed out the noggins. Once the beams get secured at the truss points then beam is fairly solid with little flex. going to start afresh tomorrow, dont too much thinking today.
Yes can be packed at wall plate. But needs suitable material. Have been told yo use C16 timber for wall plates.
I'd probably be thinking of making shims from C16 timber to sit under each telebeam, problem though is if the shims are thin, they may break up. How are you compensating for the 21mm difference between the wall plates?
Got 3 beams in today. Started raining so had to get roof covered. Trying to aim to get 5 beams in tomorrow. Not going to worry about the 21mm difference. with the 1.2m level the bubble still within the line so is fine. I suppose the 21mm will be less in terms of room span being 4.4m Using a 2m level to make sure that the beams are in line, most are within 3mm. Found it much easier to get the beams in them level through.
I would imagine, once flooring is screwed into the beams (assuming they are screwed in?) everything will be level enough and start to act as one floor.
Going to screw the boards down, they did say to use stixall but screws can be used. There wa another video on YB i watched where the guy starts cutting out the trusses after installation, and he mention he can feel the roof moving as each beam takes up the load.
What are you going to use for flooring? I'd be tempted to use something more substantial than chipboard, like plywood, although you'd lose the T&G aspect.
The other thing I have had to do is position packer at some points where they meet the nodes and before screwing into. As some beams aren't plumb so have had to wedge out a bit to get the tops flat.
Yep I'd go with that. Seems like a sensible option. Screwing this into the telebeams will make the flooring part of the structure and massively strengthen it.
Going to be scary. Think I will take out the ends first, not in a row, so load gets distributed evenly.
Working your way inwards? Seems a good idea, as going from one end to the other would probably cause a lot more noise from wight shifting. I would be tempted to take out every second one, working from the outside, so the weight is distributed more slowly and evenly.
That's sound like a better idea. The thing I dont get is the ceiling could still have movement as is not independent; i.e as it's still attached at the nodes. So if floor above moves then ceiling below will move. It's probably a good job I didn't remove all the noggins, only notched by about 8mm so still quite strong. Aiming to get all the beams in this week and the stair way opening made as well.
I'm not registered, but have done a whole house rewire on my own. Going to get the upstairs light circuit renewed and looking to use the surewire joint boxes, rather than loop in out.