Thin end panel

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by Urban Bumpkin, Jul 19, 2019.

  1. Urban Bumpkin

    Urban Bumpkin Member

    I’m trying to gain an extra 5-7mm no fit a new free standing fridge freezer in a gap between the wall and the work top.

    The run of cupboards go all the way down the one wall with a continuous wooden worktop. At the end is the fridge freezer then the wall (no skirting board).

    I had thought of cutting down one of the carcasses slightly and the doors. Or getting something like a thin steel end panel to support the end of the worktop and cutting a price off the end of the wooden work top.

    Any suggestions?
     
  2. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    I suspect you will need more than you think. You might be measuring 5-7mm at the front, or at one place at the back, but a FF is a perfect box, and I suspect your hole is not perfectly box shaped - I bet it is out of square to some extent. Rather than trying to fight it, I would look at ways to gain some proper space. The real challenge is the doors, because the cab and wt are easy to alter. Are the doors still available? buying one 50mm smaller would be best. Or turn the space into something without a door on - wine rack, pull out baskets, etc.
     
    Urban Bumpkin and kitfit1 like this.
  3. kitfit1

    kitfit1 Screwfix Select

    If the new F/F is 600mm wide and it hasn't been unboxed yet ? You could always just swap it for a 550mm F/F, it would save a lot of work. Other than that, @Mr Rusty suggestions are the only way forward.
     
    Urban Bumpkin likes this.
  4. robertpstubbs

    robertpstubbs Screwfix Select

    Which way will the FF doors open - against the wall or into the room?
     
  5. Urban Bumpkin

    Urban Bumpkin Member

    D1CEEC49-68AF-4F12-BFBE-710C9EB9A3D2.jpeg Thanks for the replies.

    This is the current set up
    Cupboards (which are under a sink) dish washer, Fridge freezer. I had thought about half a cupboard but as the end cupboards are under the sink this rules out this.
    The current fridge freezer is 590. The new one is meant to be 590, but is actually 592.
    I’ve reversed the doors on the existing one. Weirdly I get more clearance with the handles against the wall.
    The existing fridge freezer is on a plinth which also gave me an extra 2mm to play with as the plaster is slightly thicker lower down on the wall.
     
  6. Pollowick

    Pollowick Screwfix Select

    Strip all the plaster off teh wall and redo it - very thinly!
     
    kitfit1 likes this.
  7. kitfit1

    kitfit1 Screwfix Select

    Is that really a serious question ? I doubt, other than American style F/F there are any F/F that the doors can't be swapped left or right handed.
     
  8. kitfit1

    kitfit1 Screwfix Select

    Having now seen the pic...................................that is 100% the most sensible answer. Cheaper, quicker and permanent.
     
  9. robertpstubbs

    robertpstubbs Screwfix Select

    Yes.

    If a door opens against a wall, it might keep hitting it. In some cases (but not like in the pic above) the handle might stop the door opening fully.

    If the door opens towards the room, is there enough space for it swing round without fouling on the worktop etc?
     
  10. kitfit1

    kitfit1 Screwfix Select

    The F/F door handle will always hit the wall if it's opening against the wall....................unless it's a concealed handle.
    Fouling the worktop is just down to how far back the F/F is pushed in the first place. Obviously the F/F has to be positioned so that the door dosn't do that.
     
  11. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    Agree - the best way to gain a bit is to strip the plaster wall and adjust that side, or buy a 550 FF.
     
  12. Urban Bumpkin

    Urban Bumpkin Member

    It has been a consideration, but the wall that needs to be stripped of plaster runs for 3.5m. I can’t just strip that one section.

    Rather than stripping plaster, could I not just find another way to support the end of the work top. If I could I could remove the existing end panel and saw up to 10mm off the end of the work top.
     
  13. robertpstubbs

    robertpstubbs Screwfix Select

    There a lot of space above the DW. You might be able to fabricate a heavy duty bracket to support the worktop and do away with the end panel.
     
  14. Pollowick

    Pollowick Screwfix Select

    3.5m ? Where? It only comes a short way past teh fridge.

    Now seeing te end panel, yes you could remove that and have a bracket off the wall to support teh end and maybe a block at the front edge on the dishwasher.
     
    Urban Bumpkin likes this.
  15. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    You don't need to take off 3.5m of plaster. Just take off the side next to the ff and a very small amount of the face so you can re-bead. However, yes the support the wt without the end panel will gain you 15mm or so, good option.
     
    Urban Bumpkin likes this.
  16. kitfit1

    kitfit1 Screwfix Select

    OP, is this still an 600mm F/F ? Not rocket science to just measure it .
     
  17. Pollowick

    Pollowick Screwfix Select

    A piece of 3mm steel with a fold at top and bottom so it cab screwed to floor and work top would give an extra 12mm
     
    Urban Bumpkin likes this.
  18. Urban Bumpkin

    Urban Bumpkin Member

    As I’ve said earlier in the thread
    “...The current fridge freezer is 590. The new one is meant to be 590, but is actually 592.”
     
  19. Urban Bumpkin

    Urban Bumpkin Member

    There’s a doorway to the right of the fridge, but the plasterwork continues above the doorway and all along that wall. The only way round doing this would be to have a step in the plaster.
     
  20. Urban Bumpkin

    Urban Bumpkin Member

    This was an option I was thinking of. Surely this has got to be better than chopping out plaster and re plastering?
     

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