Thin Joint Blockwork

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by Shedmen, Jan 8, 2007.

  1. Shedmen

    Shedmen New Member

    Hi all
    Anyone used these systems? Tarmac & Celcon seem to do virtually identical systems. Any pros / cons over traditional blockwork?


  2. wardoss

    wardoss New Member

    I have just had the Celcon Specification manager in talking to me today about this so I can give you a few pros/cons as I see.

    The blocks are bigger and will take less time to lay
    Greater thermal and sounds performance. Blockwork goes off in about 10 mins after laid so no limit to height laid in one day.

    Celcon blocks apparently are more accurate dimensionally than others which is important as you only have a 2mm bed to play with.

    Blocks/mortar etc may not be readily available, I had to have them tagged on to a stock load with a TPs as I was less than a full load.

    Any questions give me a shout and I will do my best to answer them
  3. Shedmen

    Shedmen New Member

    Thanks for that - I spoke to them today they are seeing if they can find me a training / demonstration venue.

  4. bigjules

    bigjules New Member

    We're using Celcon thin joint blockwork on 165 plots in Oxley Village, Milton Keynes - the system is proving to be quite successful BUT is more expensive, although considerably neater, than traditionally laid blockwork.

    The savings are in time - as stated, the adhesive has a much quicker curing time than mortar and therefore much greater metre-age can be laid in a day.

    This also means that the trusses and felt/batten can go on before the face-work is started, very much like timber frame, giving a dry internal environment so first fix chippy/sparky/plumber can commence.

    The first block course off founds is laid on traditional mortar and MUST be spot on as there's very little 'play' in the 2mm adhesive bed.

    Our blockwork contractor has gone to the extent of using a masonry bandsaw for his cut blocks rather than trowel/axe/chippies' old saw, and we are therefore experiencing very little wastage.

    Simplistically, it's more expensive than trad mortar bedded blockwork but can save a couple of weeks at the front end of the programme.
  5. HappyDayz

    HappyDayz New Member

    I am using the Durox System 500 thinjoint to build myself a bungalow. I am not a builder and am learning as I go. I am currently just up to DPC and have only used the thinjoint mortar for the perp ends as I was advised to do the beds in mortar up to DPC in case I had to make allowances for uneven footings. In retrospect I wish that I had just done the first layer with mortar as I managed to get the foundations to within 10mm of horizontal.

    The thinjoint mortar is easy to apply and it seems to de-skill bricklaying. It is not a cheap way to build but it is certainly clean. For a non-bricklayer, such as myself, I would certainly think thinjoint is the way to go. My walls are to be solid and made of 200mm blocks which will then be externally insulated and finished with a lightweight system render. 200mm blocks seems to be a lot easier to lay flat and horizontal than 100mm. I cut the blocks using an ordinary hardpoint saw - it works fine as long as you occasionally use a saw-set to give the blade plenty of clearance as you cut. The block rasp I bought will never be used. I tried it when I got it, just to see if it worked, and the noise it made was horrendous.

    One problem you will get with thinjoint is that none of the merchants hold stock, so everything is to special order. I have had two deliveries of block so far and they both took four weeks to arrive - which is ok as long as you can be organized.

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