Tile the whole kitchen floor, or around the units?

Discussion in 'Tilers' Talk' started by FatHands, Apr 26, 2013.

  1. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    it has been suggested to me that on a new kitchen fit you tile around and after the kitchen units have been fitted. my concern with this is - should the kitchen units ever change then it would have to be near enough the same as what came out. Also, if there any discrepencies in the floor, its better to sort it out before its full of units!
    I am assuming the tiles would last longer than the kitchen units, although i guess they would last/be bored of about the same time? ;)
  2. joinerjohn1

    joinerjohn1 Screwfix Select

    Yep there's two schools of thought on this. on the one hand, with a fairly large kitchen, you can save umpteen sq m of unseen tiling, at a cost of £££'s On the other hand, fully tiling the floor to start with allows future layout changes to be made, without changing the floor tiles. Me personally, (if it were my kitchen) I'd tile after the units went in and save money.
    There's also the height to set the units at when the tiling is done afterwards though.  On one kitchen I fitted before the tiles had gone down, I set the units 12mm higher than normal, thinking I wouldn't have to cut the kickboard down to fit. After the kitchen had been fitted, the customer had 1/2" thick tiles on a 3-4mm bed of adhesive. Fitting the kickboards meant cutting every one down to fit underneath the base units.  Customer had shown me which tiles they were having, then changed their mind later for the thicker ones. ;)
  3. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    ah what a nightmare JJ!
    yeah, fair point about the cost saving; i guess good tiles will last the same time as the units - and if they don't just tile round again!
    Point taken about the height ;)
  4. snezza31

    snezza31 New Member

    This question has been asked before a couple of times.
    As JJ said, you are likely to get differing opinions.

    My preference is to tile the complete room first, then fit the units. The amount of money saved by tiling the room AFTER the units have been fitted is not really a factor in the big scheme of things when you look at the whole cost of a new kitchen project.
    I would ALWAYS advise a client to tile first.

  5. Fathands, if the kitchen hasn't been installed yet, then tile the whole floor - no question. It's a damn sight easier, covers all eventualities, and only costs a wee bit more.

    If the kitchen is already in place, then remove the plinths, tile to just beyond them, trim and refit. I've had to do the latter, screwing the legs up to clear the tiles, and then screwing them back down again after the tiles have set...
  6. joinerjohn1

    joinerjohn1 Screwfix Select

    Snezza, I suppose it all depends what sort of tiles the client is going for and whether they can do without the kitchen for a week whilst the floor tiling is done. Most kitchens I have done also involved the rip out of the old one and I always as a minimum on these try to leave them with the sink back in (not always been possible) I did one kitchen replacement where the existing floor had been tiled right through years before. What a joy to do.;)  But some customers get the price off the tiler to tile the complete floor and with the cost of materials, will decide to tile afterwards.
    Towards the end of last year one of my daughter in laws wanted a base unit moving a couple of inches to accomodate a standard sized cooker. (existing one was only 570mm across and the units had been fitted very tight up to it (landlords choice))  The floor had been tiled after the kitchen had been fitted and getting the units out was an absolute nightmare. The worktop was trapped in a corner and all but impossible to remove, so I had to drop the units on the legs and manipulate them out of position to cut down the backs of the return units. What I initially thought would be an easy job, took the best part of a day.
  7. snezza31

    snezza31 New Member

    A week JJ.......?????? Damm, how big would the room need to be for it to take a week to tile the floor?

    I normally connect a temporary sink that is mounted on the wall with the use of triangular braces. This means there is nothing on the floor and gives a free run for the floor tiling. The customer then has the use of a working sink for the day and a half (average size kitchen) that it will take to tile and grout the floor. Even if the tiles are Porcelain and have to be wet cut with diamond, it wouldnt normally take much longer than another half day.

    As I said before, I always advise to tile the whole room.

    Personally, I have never come across a set of circumstances that has given me any reason to change my opinion.

  8. DIYDave

    DIYDave Guest

    The other factor when tiling the complete floor and under units is when you have to pull out an integrated fridge, dishwasher, etc for maintenance
    Having the floor all at one level means that, after removing any fixings, you can just simply slide out the machine, much easier than having to drop the legs

    You could of course make up the height difference with ply, but is it really worth it ?
  9. joinerjohn1

    joinerjohn1 Screwfix Select

    It's quite usual  to tile or floor right back to the wall, where standalone appliances (w/machine, cooker etc) are going in the kitchen , even if the rest of the tiling doesn't.
  10. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    Many thanks for your input on this. Considering its completely empty and not being lived in - I think the right decision is to tile the whole floor. Should make the tilers life a lot easier than "just up to this bit".
    Any idea on ball park figueres on how long it would take for about 12m2 - tiles I'm looking at are 300mm.
  11. tictic

    tictic New Member

    What's the substrate ....concrete...does it need a slc...

    timber..overboard with cement based backer boards....asphalt.....ect...

    its all in the preperation....!!

    if it's a straight run over concrete ...1 day,..using flexy rapidset... Grout after 3 hrs...me I would grout next morning..

    but give it 2 days over all...but again depends on the substrate and prep...
  12. tictic

    tictic New Member

    just seen your previous post...you have a slc over the floor...so give it 1-2days tops...

    looks like an old house...does it have a dpm installed?..
  13. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    Hi tictic.
    yes it's been self levelled. What so you mean by dpm mate?
  14. DIYDave

    DIYDave Guest

    dpm = Damp Proof Membrane
  15. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    No DMP guys.
  16. tictic

    tictic New Member

    Ok then I would advise....

    durabase C1++ crack isolation waterproof matting...or...

    ditra isolation matting...

    these will stop any moisture in the floor getting to the tiles and adhesive and causing you problems..

    go to their webpage look thro and read the downloads....

    right aff tae the pub...enjoy..;)
  17. tictic

    tictic New Member

    fathands...do you know what a dpm is...?

    it should be under the concrete floor and run up the walls 150mm this stops moisture/dampness in your floor and up your walls...

    double check you don't have one if you haven't then go with my post above..

    if you do have one then the second post I did last night..;)

    right pub now....
  18. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    tictic - many thanks for your help here (can't mark as helpful as its only 2 per thread!). There is no DMP so will follow your advice.
    Thanks again. ;)
  19. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    Thanks Mack although this was completed over a year ago mate.

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