Tiles for wetroom floor

Discussion in 'Tilers' Talk' started by big_bad_bob, Feb 23, 2006.

  1. big_bad_bob

    big_bad_bob New Member

    I'm thinking about making a small wetroom, and looking at different systems I quite like the one from Wetroom Solutions - it also seems to come with the Mudster seal of approval, which is no bad thing. ;)

    It is very much still at the planning stage, and I'm wondering what tiles to go for on the floor. I'd be looking at a 900 mm square wet dec, which has a 17mm fall, so would I be right in thinking I would need small tiles to follow the profile of the dec? Do I need to go as small as mosaics?
  2. The last one of these I fitted my customer insisted on fitting the 300 x 300 tiles across the entire floor of continuity. I then coated these with a non slip clear resin treatment, the customer was happy. I didn't think it looked anywhere near as good as could if it were mosaics.

    Mosaics are just a whole world easier to fit and they give the non slip effect your immediately looking for.

    Go for a tumbled marble or travertine (not tsomething I currently sell) but you'll find what you need with a quick Google for around the £50 mark.

    You can use mosaics in jus thte shower area or over the entire floor, just depends what effect you want.
  3. big_bad_bob

    big_bad_bob New Member

    Thanks Mudster. I was a bit worried about how I would do it with larger tiles, and it's such a small area that the extra cost of mosaics isn't a problem.

    Out of interest, how do you follow the profile of the dec with a tile as large as a 300 x 300? Can't be easy to get one edge/corner to slope down towards the drain without the opposite edge.corner protruding above the level of the flat tiles.
  4. I cut the tile to match the defined fall of the tray.

    It don't think it looked to good, but it's what the customer wanted and no matter how much I tried they insisted on having the continuity.
  5. big_bad_bob

    big_bad_bob New Member

    Ah well, you can lead a horse to water......

    I've not laid mosaics before, and I notice in previous posts you recommend the Nicobond all-in-one mosaic adhesive and grout (plus additive). I would appreciate a bit of advice on laying mosaics with this stuff, and the pitfalls. (Obviously I've not chosen the tiles yet, but I guess they will come mesh-backed?). It will be on the CCL wetroom system, with aquapanel walls.

    Regarding colour, it seems to come in only white, super white or grey (unless you are prepared to order 100 bags, which is probably overkill for a couple of square metres) - do you just stick to those colours?

    Cheers, Bob.
  6. You have a lot more flexibility if your fitting a stone mosaic, mainly becasue the stone is thicker and you suffer less from oozage of the adhesive through the tiles than you would with say, a 3mm glass mosaic tile.

    So if your customer went with marble or travertine mosaics at 12mm thick, I'd use a white adhesive such as BAL single part Flexible (also adding AD1 admix) then use a suitable wide joint grout for the colour of the mosaic, BAL wide Joint Ivory or Ardex C2 Limestone again with admix in.

    The nicobond adhesive is really designed for the tesserae type mosaic that you find in swimming pools, where it just makes the job so much easier to have a mixed adhesive and grout, especially with paper faced mosaics that are pre grouted then stuck.
  7. big_bad_bob

    big_bad_bob New Member

    The customer is also the installer ;)

    I like the idea of a thick tumbled travertine. What trowel notch size would you recommend for this work?

    One other question.....can you put electric underfloor heating in a wetroom, ie right under the shower, or is that just a really silly idea?
  8. A 6mm solid bed trowel for the mosaics would be good.

    Someone else asked me about the UFH recently and I'm not sure, I see no reason why you can't use it out of the immediate wet area, not sure I'd put it on the tray itself though.

    Warmup is generally designed as Low voltage, although how low voltage I'm not sure.
  9. big_bad_bob

    big_bad_bob New Member

    I dont like cold feet! Once I've finally decided on the set up I want, I'll run it past the respective manufacturers.
  10. Stone generally takes on the temperature of it's surroundings, so although it's horribly cold when you fit it, it gradually warms over a week and isn't the ice cold block you imagine, unless of course it's laid directly onto a cold concrete slab.
  11. dual193

    dual193 New Member

    Beware of mosaics and u.f.h it creates an un-even surface leading to the mosaics requiring a thicker bed of adhesive, so watch your levels.
  12. Screed the UFH in, it's removes this problem.

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