tiles to worktop

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by Graham Everett, Apr 11, 2014.

  1. what store was this out off cos retail customers can buy any ?
     
  2. i have had conversations in 2 essex stores told them i wanted to install myself and was shown the take away range, i dont recall anything else being mentioned
     
  3. We'll you could off bought the normal range as I have fitted it for customers that have just been a bought it from store and had it deliverd 3 week later I would raise this with the store you bought its from
    Hope this helps
     
  4. I think they get better commission on off the shelf kitchens to be honest
     
  5. todays problem is to do with the wall in the property rather than the units, i modified the units to take wall fixings but because the wall isnt flat when the back of the unit is touching the cupboard on the left there is a gap of 4mm ish at the front. to pack it out from behind is going to take too much packing and if i try and squeeze it up as is its distorting everything too much..the right hand side will be ok cause theres not much there!. any other ideas how to get this looking a bit better?
     
  6. Well you could get some clad on wall end panels and scribe them to wall or just use decorators caulk to fill the gap hope this helps
     
  7. ok an update, in the end i decided not to use the bridging units as i would never have been happy with them. i put up a 500 unit with a glass door and a 400 unit instead.

    Next question. i got my work top today, they cut it to size for me but i need to fit the matching strip to the ends. I have read about unika tape whats peoples thoughts on this and where can i buy it in Essex?.

    I would also be interested to hear what others use?
     
  8. i just use contact ahdesive and file
     
    FatHands likes this.
  9. Thanks Hudson. Today i cut the holes in the worktop for the sink and hob, i know about sealing the chipboard and the sink instructions advise a bead of silicone round the edge of it.

    My question is what do you seal round the hob with, it has a seal but the instructions say use an appropriate sealer. Is silicone ok or should i use something else due to the temperatures involved?
     
  10. Also i had to cut the hardboard back into 3 sections to get round all the pipework in the cupboard under the sink. I could do with some H section plastic strips to help link it all together nicely, anyone have any suggestions?
     
  11. I normally use silicone on sink and the aluminium foil tape around the hob
    As for back board I normally put all new pipe work in so don't really have to cut much away but I would just tell wicks that back board was damaged and try and cut a new one over top of existing

    Hope this helps
     
    FatHands likes this.
  12. today one of my jobs was to start fitting the plinths, one section is 2m long and needed a wedge shape slither cutting off it 6mm at one end going down to nothing at the other. i've done it and the cut is at the top and not noticeable but not very neat.

    some of the units need plinths on their ends as well as fronts but if you fit the legs as wickes advise with the tag at 45 degrees you cant fit a plinth.

    i notice in the brochure my kitchen has quite a few differences to what i have been supplied, one being that the end panels go all the way down to the floor...

    Hudson i followed your advise on the worktop ends and its come out very well but there are some small chips where the supplier cut it. what do i do here? colorfill?
     
  13. Well I normally router ends to get a crisp clean cut
    But colour fill should be ok it's not the professional way

    As for end panels they normally go to the floor on ends of the units and on the off the shelf one I fitted they did too
    In some cases like where a freestanding appliance is I normally order a clad on wall end cut it in half with table saw then cut to suit the ends with a 5 mm step forward to joining plinth and legs I normally turn the support stub facing to back of unit just the ones that need plinth returns

    Hope this helps
     
  14. i paid for "oak" end panels to replace the white and they stop 140mm from the floor,same as the white ones. Where can i buy the foil tape please?
     
  15. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    Can't see tape being much use, unless it is lapped right over. If you have a visible side, you can't lap over, so tape just stuck up to the edge won't stop ingress.

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  16. As you
    As you may or may not know there is a 11mm lip due to the hob been bigger than the cut out I normally rap the tape over on to the top of surface by 5mm down the cut edge and then round the bottom side this is recommended by many worktop manufactures like Wilson art and Wickes n B&Q specify it for fitters
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2014
  17. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    Yes, sorry.

    I had forgotten you mentioned the 'hob' bit!

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  18. wdodds

    wdodds New Member

    Plinths should be scribed to the floor and not the underside of units . The units should be all level .
     
  19. wdodds -the units are level, the floor is not. I have made the cut run along the bottom of the unit rather than the floor as it cant be seen and leaves a nice edge along the floor where you can see it
     
    Hudson's Joinery likes this.
  20. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    That will make the ends 'out of plumb'!

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     

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