Tiling around dry lining box?

Discussion in 'Tilers' Talk' started by Monalea, Apr 14, 2021.

  1. Monalea

    Monalea New Member

    Hi Guys,

    We're tiling our kitchen and on one wall we have regular sockets with face plates which pull forward easily to tile behind but on the other wall we have dry lining boxes. One of the face plates on this side has 4 switches for cooker/ washer etc so faceplate needs to fit flush with these switches.

    Wondering if is is better to pull the faceplate's forward and tile over the edge of the dry lining box and go extra long screws or replace with a new box? ... Or any other suggestions very welcome!

    Thanks :)
  2. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    Not really getting the question here - but that may be me :)

    Don’t see the difference between tiling around a socket with a metal back box or one with a dry lining box

    Both cases, the tiles fit up to edges of box, not over as you won’t get socket to fit flush or faceplate screws to fit. With PB boxes, tile up to edge, not over it. That way, if the box needs replacing, you can remove it and replace. The threads or plastic wings can break when changing faceplates. Can simply change a ‘wing’ if can match up same make of box but if not, box needs swapping over- not se easy if you’ve tiled over the plastic lip

    In both cases, you would either pull faceplate forward to tile, or remove faceplate if you wish and safely terminate wires - Wago connectors good for this as a temporary and safe termination

    Tile away and then faceplates sit onto face of tiles, with both types of back box, longer screws will often be needed after taking into account depth of tile adhesive and tile

    Sorry if I’ve misunderstood the post ?

    PS. Others will tell you to replace all the PB boxes as they’re useless and shouldn’t be used and they’re a bodge and worse ...... but just ignore them, millions in use around the globe and they can’t all be problematic !
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2021

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