Tiling backer advice on masonry wall

Discussion in 'Tilers' Talk' started by DIY Bobster, May 25, 2023.

  1. DIY Bobster

    DIY Bobster New Member

    I am doing a complete bathroom reinstall and was planning on using Hardie Backer boards for all four walls (three stud partition walls and one masonry wall). The problem I have is with the masonry wall, which I was planning on using dot and dab to fix the Hardie boards to. Hardie's own website says that dot and dab isn't an appropriate method for fixing to masonry though. The reason I wanted to use dot and dab is primarily because it will make it easier to make the wall plumb (removal of the old dot and dab has meant the masonry wall surface is now quite uneven in places) and also that I need to build the final wall out by a set amount.

    Some context on the reason why I need to build the finished wall out by a set amount; I am installing some reduced depth fitted furniture against this wall. The tolerance of where the furniture can be in relation to the soil pipe (which is fixed) is wafer thin because of the reduced depth. This means I have this really tight tolerance of where the finished tiled wall surface can be in relation to the soil pipe.

    So going back to the problem, I don't think I can use Hardie's suggested fixing method (adhesive glue and mechanical fixings) because the finished wall depth would not be enough. I can't add extra tile adhesive to accommodate as this would be more than the maximum recommended.

    I have seen some posts on this forum saying it is possible to dot and dab Hardie backer, but it doesn't sit right going against manufacturer's recommendations. I have considered building the wall out with studs, but this would then make the finished wall greater than what I need for the reduced depth fitted furniture.

    Additional info (if useful):
    • Tile backer needs to be strong enough to support large-ish format porcelain tiles (600mm x 1200mm x 9mm)
    • Dimensions for masonry wall are approx 1.2m x 2.4m
    • Ideal finished wall distance from masonry wall needs to be approx 36mm to accommodate reduced depth furniture
    Anyone have any suggestions or daft things I might not have considered?
     
  2. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    Dot and dab green moisture proof plasterboard on the wall then Hardibacker over that if you so choose, though I’d just leave it as green board.
     
  3. DIY Bobster

    DIY Bobster New Member

    Hi Jord86, thanks for the fast response :)

    I think the problem with that would be the final distance from the masonry wall would be more than I need to get the fitted furniture aligned with the soil pipe. I was aiming for a finished wall distance 36mm from the masonry wall, doing what you suggested would push it out around 43mm (5mm minimum for the dot and dab, 12mm plasterboard, 12mm Hardie backer, 5mm tile adhesive, 9mm tile thickness). In reality, I think the dot and dab would be thicker than 5mm too to accommodate uneven wall surface, which would make that final distance even greater. The actual problem I have is the ridiculously low tolerance of the reduced depth furniture, but that's the challenge!

    A bit more information on the furniture, the distance from the back of the front legs (which are required to clip the plinth on) to the back of the units is 135mm. Soil pipe obviously takes up 110 mm of that space which in an ordinary situation would leave 25mm of wiggle room (which is plenty). However, I also have to feed some copper pipe hot and cold feeds behind the soil pipe which adds on 15mm and reduces that wiggle room down to 10mm!
     
  4. DIY Bobster

    DIY Bobster New Member

    Although I guess swapping out the Hardie for moisture resistant plasterboard would result in my original planned thickness, which is what you have suggested. It's not a wetroom, so I don't expect that wall to really need the cement board from that point of view. Have you (or anyone had any experience of other backer boards that are 12mm and can be dot and dabbed and hold large format tiles?
     
  5. Mark DM

    Mark DM Screwfix Select

    I have previously used sand/cement to pack out backer board. Primed the back and wall to improve bond. Once set you can drill through and put in mechanical fixings
     
  6. DIY Bobster

    DIY Bobster New Member

    Hi Mark DM, thanks for the reply, and sorry for not acknowledging until now. For some reason I didn't get an email telling me someone had replied. For what it's worth, I ended up going buying a 20mm thick sheet of Wedi board as this can be dot and dabbed on (although also needs mechanical fixings too) and it also offers a layer of insulation too. More money spent, but it should be the best option in the long run.
     
  7. Mark DM

    Mark DM Screwfix Select

    Good stuff.. Interestingly I no longer get the email notifications relating to postings either. Just happened to see the post headline and decided to read it :)
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice