TILING BATH PANEL

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by Bomb Doctor, Aug 9, 2004.

  1. Bomb Doctor

    Bomb Doctor New Member

    We are redoing our bathroom and she that must be obeyed wants to carry the wall tiles round to cover the bath panel. I'm not convinced that wood or MDF will hold a tile for very long, particularly if there is the slightest movement in the bath or panel. Can anyone suggest the best material to use, how best to prep it and what adhesive to use?
     
  2. Lightning McQueen

    Lightning McQueen New Member

    Many on this forum rave about this aquapanel stuff (available from Wickes apparently). I,ve never used it but understand that it is excellent for wet situations such as shower walls etc, and it accepts tiles easily.

    A cheap option might be plasterboard but I don't think this can be recommended because unless you can be 100% certain that no water will get behind the tiles then you might find it turns to mush.

    Another option might be to clad a timber frame with plywood and tile onto that. You might need to seal the plywood before tiling with some diluted PVA or similar. If this suggestion is rubbish then I'm sure someone will point it out.

    Top tip - use a good waterproof tile adhesive. I swear by unibond but there are others available.
     
  3. dewaltdisney

    dewaltdisney New Member

    Hi BD,

    Skil is correct in that aquapanel is a good substrate in this situation, but it is thick and it is heavy. You need a good subframe to hold it and there might not be a sufficient gap under the bath rim to do this when you add the thickness of frame, panel and tiles.

    As the panel will not be subject to continuous water stream you may be able to get away with 6mm MDF coated with PVA. Just make sure that water does not run around the bath lip into the MDF at the top edge. One way around this is to squirt a bead of silicone on the panel edge (I suggest this all the time) and when the silicone has gone off you have a flexible seal that will allow you to remove the panel.

    On this point please remember to make the panel removable, use hook and eye tape (velcro) for this purpose. You never know when you need access to the plumbing!!!

    Hope this helps,

    DWD
     
  4. Bomb Doctor

    Bomb Doctor New Member

    Hi Skil & DWD,

    I had hoped that PVA coated MDF might do the trick, because as you say aquapanel is thick and requires a second mortgage. The silicone bead and the velcro fastening suggestions are spot-on. Thanks for the advice - she will be pleased!

    BD
     
  5. jasonb

    jasonb New Member

    If you go for the MDF option, make sure you use the V313 moisture resistant variaty which only costs a couple of pounds more for an 8x4 sheet. You can tell its MR by the fact it is green or has a green core.

    If you go for ply use WBP at the very least, marine ply would be better and seal with waterproof PVA on both sides and edges.

    Jason
     
  6. mj

    mj Guest

    12mm minimun thickness for the mdf/ply & it will need to be secured firmly (through tiles & board with screws + caps to ease removal for maintainence) to a timber frame! If it is not secured firmly it will warp like a banana after a few months.
    Even with 18 or 22mm back panels & tiles, it will warp a small amount without mechanical fixings to hold it flat
     
  7. everhopeful

    everhopeful New Member

    Did this about 20 years ago using fine chipboard on a frame. Stayed in place for 16, and probably would still be there if we hadn't re-fitted the bathroom. Good advice above on access to plumbing. I suggest you fit your board in two pieces, and plan the tiling so that the joint in the board coincides with a line of grouting. Much easier to remove a section of the bath panel and make good the grouting afterwards than the whole thing.
     
  8. Bomb Doctor

    Bomb Doctor New Member

    Thanks to all for your interest and helpful responses - much appreciated
     
  9. GASMAN

    GASMAN Guest

    GET HOLD OF 20 MM THICK WATER RESISTANT MDF AND 30 MM BY 30MM RUFF TIMBER.DO LIKE A LADDER EFFECT ON BACK OF MDF WITH RUFF TIMBER USING PLASTERBOARD SCREWS.
    PVA ALL CUT EDGES NEAR THE TOP EDGE OF PANEL,GET THREE DOWELS DRILL HOLES ON PANEL TO ACCOMMODATE THEM GLUE THEM IN SOLID WAIT TO DRY.
    HAVE A LENGTH OF WOULD ON BOTTOM MAKE SURE IT WILL BE POSITIONED RIGHT ONCE THE PANEL GOES BACK AGAINST IT.
    OFFER PANEL UP TO BATH (MAY NEED TO BUT A BIT OF WOOD UNDER THE RIM OF THE BATH TO HOUSE THE DOWELS)MARK WHERE THE DOWELS WANT TO BE HOUSED.
    DRILL SLIGHTLY BIGGER HOLES THAN THE DOWEL.
    BUILDERS MASTIC ON BACK OF PANEL AT THE TOP AND IN DOWEL HOLES ONLY.
    TWO MINUTE BLOBS ON BOTTOM OF BATH PANEL.
    THEN FIND MIDDLE OF PANEL AND MIDDLE OF TILE THEN TILE FROM THE CENTRE OF BATH OUTWARDS.
    MAKE SURE IF THERES GUNA BE ANY WATER ROLLING OFF EDGE OF BATH FIT THE PANEL BEHIND THE RIM SO IT DONT START HOLDING WATER ON TOP.
    SILICONE UNDERNEATH RIM OF BATH EDGE AND EITHER SIDE.
    P.S. ID MAKE SURE YOU PUT HEPWORTH CONNECTERS(50 YEAR GUARANTEE) ON BATH AND INSTALL AN OVERFLOW TRAY THAT GOES UNDERNEATH TRAP ON BATH(PAINT TRAYS ARE USUALLY THE BEST THING U CAN USE) PLUS IT DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH ANY REGS.......E.
     

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