Toilet Refurbishment

Discussion in 'Project Photos' started by Joe95, Jan 4, 2018.

  1. Joe95

    Joe95 Well-Known Member

    I am planning to, but the garden has a fair bit more work in it. I want to raise the lawn, build a timber shed/workshop at the back (insulated, cedar cladded etc.) pave down the middle, build raised beds both sides...

    Quite a lot to get on with before I start re-seeding!
     
  2. dobbie

    dobbie Well-Known Member

    Bad idea using bonding in this situation.
    You should have used hard wall or sand and cement.
     
  3. Joe95

    Joe95 Well-Known Member

    Toilet Extractor:

    I had temporarily hooked up some flexible ducting, had been in for about six weeks. I wanted it in rigid.

    Used round for the run up to the extractor, and rectangular after the extractor. Rectangular comes down from within the stud wall above.

    IMG_1369(2).jpg

    Extractor is from Screwfix, is a vent-axia (https://www.screwfix.com/p/vent-axia-acm100t-21w-in-line-bathroom-extractor-fan/53730)
    It was one of the few I could find that would work with the length of ducting. It can shift a serious amount of air, although I have it on the lowest setting at the moment.

    IMG_1365(2).jpg

    Rectangular runs out to front garden.

    IMG_1358(2).jpg

    I used a Wickes air brick and adaptor for this, so it didn't look naff.
    http://www.wickes.co.uk/Manrose-PVC-Air-Brick-Adaptor---White-110mm/p/168821
    http://www.wickes.co.uk/Manrose-Slimline-PVC-Air-Brick---Brown/p/167623

    Used a combination of the disc cutter, angle grinder and SDS chisel for this.

    IMG_1359(2).jpg

    I have since strapped in all the ducting. At some point I'll get around to putting Celotex in between the joists too...
     
  4. Joe95

    Joe95 Well-Known Member

    What makes you say that?

    I used bonding because I find it easier to work with than hardwall.
     
  5. dobbie

    dobbie Well-Known Member

    You should never use bonding on outside walls especially 9" ones.
    The reason is Bonding attracts water/moisture to itself,that is why it is better avoided in some enviroments.
    You may not have used it on an outside wall, but I personally would not have used it in a toilet area.
     
  6. Joe95

    Joe95 Well-Known Member

    Left this thread hanging too. Here's the finished project!

    In progress of fitting sink and rad:

    IMG_1150.JPG
    Sink and toilet came from Victoria plumb, radiator from Screwfix (the smallest Kudox one) and bathroom accessories from B&Q.

    New 25mm Ply floor laid:

    IMG_1132.JPG

    Sink waste. Comes down inside wall and drops into a strap boss on the rest bend.

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    Painting in process:

    IMG_1184.JPG

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    Rear of toilet - the wall build up is 6" studs, ply, plasterboard and plaster finish. Other side (in cupboard) has a sheet of ply, which can be removed for servicing.

    Stub stack incorporated here, and due to this, I needed to make up an offset flush pipe, shown in the lower photo.

    IMG_1489.JPG

    IMG_1195.JPG


    And...the finished result, following lino floor, skirting and fittings/accessories installation.

    (Toilet roll holder not installed yet....some cable ties will do!)

    IMG_1497.JPG

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    KIAB likes this.
  7. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    Well that's a first, a strap on boss on a rest bend.:eek::)

    Would have used flexible hose on water connection to cistern, & have isolation valves on basin feeds
     
  8. Joe95

    Joe95 Well-Known Member

    Hey Kiab! How are you keeping?


    The boss was a first for me too, but it sealed first time and is still good a year on. I didn't have much room or fall to install it on a straight length of pipe, so tried it there.

    On isolation, the cistern is connected to the lower of the two yellow lever valves. The basin tap can be isolated below, in the cellar:

    IMG_4401.JPG

    Buteline's pipe has crimp on 1/2 female threads, good for stuff like cisterns and isolation valves ect.
     

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