UFH Schematic Help

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by ddac84, Sep 12, 2017.

  1. ddac84

    ddac84 New Member

    Hi people..

    I really hope someone can help me out here.

    I am removing pretty much the entire heating and hot water system in my house and putting in UFH.

    Now I cannot make heads of tails of how they have the current system installed.

    But basically I need a plan on how to plumb in what is essentially a completely new system...

    I have added a pic of the new system but I cannot figure out how to plumb it all in. The current system is a total mess and is going.

    So basically I need a plan on how to connect everything up. but I also need at add a pump for the hot water, the UFH manifolds both have their own pumps.

    If anyone could be amazing and help me out I will be forever grateful! Will happily send £50 via paypal. I have 2 wiring centers for the UFH and hw etc and know how to wire them in ive done it before, but the placement of the valves is also over my head. so if you could include the valves in the plan that would be awesome...


    Hope that makes sense? UFH.jpg
     
  2. Dave does Gas

    Dave does Gas Well-Known Member

    Im not being rude here but I feel you need to get a professional in to do this for you if your asking advice on the basics.
    The UHF companys will design a system for you if you send in room dimentions and layouts etc. but you need to understand the basic design of an S Plan or Y plan system, the configuration of the cold feed and open vent, the list goes on.
    Please call in a pro.
     
  3. ddac84

    ddac84 New Member

    I've got the design, laid it in my previous house. but that was a simple job cos I didn't change the hot water cylinder etc. The reason its all being changed here is because its all a huge mess.

    Its not rocket science if you have a diagram - the diagram might be rocket science but fitting it isn't.. No offence to any plumbers.
     
  4. ddac84

    ddac84 New Member

    This is what I think it should be like, but im not 100% sure. Ive left out the vent pipes and the mains water feed in. and hw out of the HWC
    UFH2.jpg
     
  5. ddac84

    ddac84 New Member

    Does this look right?

    UFH6.jpg
     
  6. kiaora

    kiaora Active Member

    Hi,
    It's not quite right,
    From the boiler flow, it's, vent, cold feed, ( within 150mm),
    Then pump, bypass, then a common header to supply the 3 zone valves,

    The way you have it, it wouldn't work, the uf curcuit neens a pumped supply, the pump on the uf, only circulates round the zone

    Hope that helps

    Regards
    Peter
     
    ddac84 likes this.
  7. ddac84

    ddac84 New Member

    Does it need a bypass valve if its connected like this? Thanks for your help :)
    UFH7.jpg
     
  8. Pollowick

    Pollowick Well-Known Member

    On my system here, the cold feed from the header tank and the overflow share a 22mm pipe most of the way and only split a little before the header tank.


    And the valves on the manifolds often have Hot Feed In & Cool Out on te system side, then two connections on the UFH side.
     
  9. kiaora

    kiaora Active Member

    Hi
    It's normal practice to fit a bypas, often the pump is controlled by the boiler, so it can overrun to disapate the latent heat from the boiler, and also for when the stats close the zones on hot water,

    Regards
    Peter

    Note, don't forger the magnetic cleaner, and dosing pot, on the return to the boiler,,and any thumb vents at high points that may form air locks.
     
    ddac84 likes this.
  10. ddac84

    ddac84 New Member

    Thanks Peter!

    Have a mag cleaner and dosing pot already, (1 of the few things that aren't being changed haha)

    Does this look right?

    UFH8.jpg
     
  11. kiaora

    kiaora Active Member

    Hi
    Schematicly it looks fine,

    In real life, it's best to make it so air naturally rises to the vent pipe, from the boiler, and an auto bypass helps the pump, do its job,
    I.e., all the pump effort is round the circuits except when some zones are closed, and then the auto bypass will do its job, and open and keep the pump resistance steady.

    Regards
    Peter
     
  12. kiaora

    kiaora Active Member

    Btw
    How do you do the drawing?
     
  13. ddac84

    ddac84 New Member

    Just using Adobe Fireworks lol nothing fancy. There will be much better specifically designed stuff out there. Thanks again for all you help, if you send me your Paypal addy I will send ya some beer money :)
     
  14. G&W Plumbing & Heating

    G&W Plumbing & Heating Active Member

    Hahah

    what is that diagram supposed to conclude?

    You need a design buddy, & no you can’t do it
     
  15. G&W Plumbing & Heating

    G&W Plumbing & Heating Active Member

    What a load of ******** that is
     
  16. kiaora

    kiaora Active Member

    Hi,
    Nice gesture, but if you want, a small donation to a local charity would be good!

    Regards
    Peter
     
  17. N.W

    N.W Member

    The best help I can give is to honestly say you are playing with fire and you are better off getting a professional in to do this for you. I am all for saving money where possible but messing about with boilers/cylinders is not something that is wise. If I were you I would dip in my pocket and stay safe. Sorry if that is not what you want to hear but it's the truth. A water cylinder is a potential bomb without exaggerating the point. Please reconsider
     
    Jord86 likes this.
  18. G&W Plumbing & Heating

    G&W Plumbing & Heating Active Member

    It won’t work, all your drawings show is the understanding of how a 2 pipe F&R system circulates.

    You can’t put 3 pumps on a open vented semi pumped close coupled system, you will lose the neutral point.

    Also your bypass is in the wrong place.

    That drawing looks like something I would of done when I left school before I went to college and done an NVQ 2/3 in plumbing, heating & mechanical Engineering.

    Also Chaning from a Y to S plan will involve a complete electrical system re- wire and new controls including room stats for each zone controlling the actuators on the UFH, programmers etc etc etc all need design,

    Your need to seal the heating system and see if your boiler is suitable for that plus much more etc etc
     
  19. G&W Plumbing & Heating

    G&W Plumbing & Heating Active Member

    He’s doing it gravity by the looks of it
     
  20. G&W Plumbing & Heating

    G&W Plumbing & Heating Active Member

    Below is images of some of my installs, they have UFH, a towel rail circuit, secondary hot return, basically the same as your drawing

    It’s just not that simple mate
     

    Attached Files:

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