Morning all, I’m onto hanging the cupboard door for my under stairs storage and need some advice on fitting the hinges please. The door itself is 18mm mdf and roughly 1800mm x 700mm so quite a chunky door. The cupboard door has the slope of the stairs at the top going from right to left downwards (coffee hasn’t kicked in yet so that may not make any sense!). I’ve gone for 3 flush hinges but my question is at what points down the door do I fit the hinges? Do I go dead centre for the middle hinge and how far from too and bottom do I fit the other two? Cheers, Dave
Are you using these common type flush hinges that screw into the edge of the MDF ? If so, you don't get a secure grip with screw into 'end grain' of MDF https://www.screwfix.com/p/polished-chrome-flush-hinge-76-x-33mm-2-pack/70386 Some folks say dip screw in wood glue and drive in but does that really make any difference I wonder ? Better to use 'cranked flush hinges' that screw into face of MDF - much better grip, your door is fairly heavy as your aware https://www.screwfix.com/p/zinc-plated-double-cranked-hinges-51-x-35mm-2-pack/478pr Spacings ......... will let others comment !
Dont know if its going to help. But I've got a similar set up (but door is taller) with kitchen cabinet hinges on mine. Top middle and bottom. 14 cm from top and bottom and 3rd one in the middle of the 2. Been on there 20+ years. No problems
Agreed, concealed hinges give the best job, both in terms of fixings but also the adjustment they then give you to get door perfectly lined up Depends if the OP is confident with the Fostner Bit to drill out for the hinge cups in the 18mm MDF. Can buy cheap plastic hinge jigs online that simplify the marking out, less than a fiver (but possibly needs to buy the cutter as well) Depending on door/frame construction, likely that door sits inside the frame (?) - will then need ‘inset’ concealed hinges
Glue and pin softwood doorstop or 2x1 planed batten to the edges of the door as a 'lipping' and plane it flush, then use the hinges 6 inches down from the top, 9 inches down from the bottom, and the middle hinge central. MDF is very poor to screw directly into the edge as it splits.
Nice idea but if the chap wants to keep it simple, the cranked flush hinges in my link get over this issue of screwing into the edge
The OP didn't ask about hinge options Dave, they enquired on the hinge positions and they've already bought the flush hinges so they now need to fit them without their next thread being 'my door has fallen off due to the edges splitting'.
That’s true Jord, can’t argue with that but …… I just like to add a little extra info wether the OP has asked for it or not ,,,,,,, he’s still gonna get it !
Would 3 of these double cranked hinges be enough to hold the weight of the 18mm mdf door assuming that I would use 16mm screws in the door?
i do happen to have a Fostner bit and the plastic jig you talk about since I had to refit a cupboard new door when I got a new washing machine and it was a slightly different size. I’m sure with a few test runs on a scrap piece I could get the hang of it. Thanks
I’m thinking that flush hinges will do the job, the cranked ones I linked to give a wider opening also but, the other benefit is that the door section screws through the face of the board - not the weaker edge core But, for me, the concealed type hinge wins hands down every time ! A much better, secure attachment to door and frame and then a wide range of adjustments to get the door fitting perfectly Flush hinges don’t tend to be the best quality hinges either but again with concealed hinges, a wide range of brands and qualities available, from cheap and flimsy to rock solid hinges with soft close options, self close, choice of opening angles and again, adjustment - Blum would be my choice It’s not that difficult to get to grips with the cutter and jig and fit these hinges, as you’ve found out so to me, that’s the way forward - update the forum on your decision
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