Under unit lighting

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by Scoobs72, Aug 4, 2008.

  1. Scoobs72

    Scoobs72 New Member

    For under unit strip lighting where's the best place to put the socket and a suitable switch. Would you screw the socket to the underside of the wall units with a switch below on the wall? Or is there some really smart approach that I'm not thinking of :) Thanks all.
     
  2. Stretch

    Stretch New Member

    My preferred method is to spur off the nearest socket in 2.5mm T&E into a switched fused spur and then run a 1.0mm T&E buried in the wall directly above the fused spur to above the height of the wall units. Then, as you put your wall units up, neatly notch out the top and bottom of the carcase, and run the lead for the light fitting up behind the wall unit. You can then do all your connections on top of the wall units (in junction boxes not connectors and tape!!!) which will be hidden by the cornices.

    Make sense?

    Or get a sparky in................:)
     
  3. sinewave

    sinewave Screwfix Select

    It's far more professional if you can swap the main light switch for the kitchen to a 2G unit and then run a feed from here to the top of the cabs and wire as per stretch's sugestion.

    This only works if there's a neutral at the original switch pos.

    If not then it's a loop feed from a light fitting with a switch wire back to the 2G position or, as a last resort a spur.
     
  4. Scoobs72

    Scoobs72 New Member

    My preferred method is to spur off the nearest socket
    in 2.5mm T&E into a switched fused spur and then run
    a 1.0mm T&E buried in the wall directly above the
    fused spur to above the height of the wall units.
    Then, as you put your wall units up, neatly notch out
    the top and bottom of the carcase, and run the lead
    for the light fitting up behind the wall unit. You
    can then do all your connections on top of the wall
    units (in junction boxes not connectors and tape!!!)
    which will be hidden by the cornices.

    Make sense?

    Sort of. The bit I don't understand is running the lead up behind the wall unit. The wall units fit flush to the wall, so there's no room (behind them) for running the lead. Have I misunderstood something here?
     
  5. Stretch

    Stretch New Member

    As sinewave says, it is better if you can get a switch wire back to the light switch position but this often involves taking floorboards up up stairs.

    Re: Your query about the lead running behind the wall unit:

    Most wall units have a void of about 10mm behind the back panel so you just need to neatly notch out the top and bottom of the unit. The only kitchens that I know of that don't have a void are the cr@ppy Ikea kitchens so if you're fitting one of those I feel sorry for you. I can't believe in this day and age that companies are manufacturing kitchens with 2mm hardboard backs that are simply nailed on :(
     

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