Hi all, Looking to knock out a window and wall and open up into a new wextension (yet to be built and PP currently being considered). The UB will be properly sized by a structural engineer, but how does it get fixed to the padstones? I assume you jack it under the wall plates with acro props, fill the gap below and then when dry release the props? I've seen slate used in the gap below. Is this (a) to fill any gaps and (b) acceptable? Thanks
Concerned your asking this question if your gonna be doing it, its a dangerous job if you don't know what your doing. it isn't fixed , it just sits on the padstones. slating is acceptable to dry pack it up. you do jack something up but it depends on what needs jacking up, plus you need to check what the acro is on, flooreboards for examply might need you to spread the load
As above answer, not the kind of job to do first time just with Internet advice as there are so many factors I assume it's the back wall of your house? Is it 2 storeys? If so is it cavity or 9", can you support inside under joists if they are in the wall? Do you need strong boys or needles? how heavy is the beam? How will you lift it? Normally no need to fix to padstones, but your engineer should advise Slate can be used to dry pack the last joint before striking props
Hi all, the wall is a double skinned block inner and outer of reconstructed stone. The building is a bungalow. The current wall plate sits on finlock type gutters (which are to be removed as is the external wall, so the Ub will be used to bridge the gap and hold up (a) the wall plate and exisitng roof structure plus (b) the new roof which will be tied in. Still awaiting specs and PP but just wondered how the UB is secured to the padstones once fitted. I appreciate it's not an easy task. I'm sure I will need strongboys or needles but will be pushing from the gound floor, which is concrete.
Ok if it's just roof structure and a few courses that's not so drastic, hopefully your beam will be an easy lift Good luck
I always prop up the beam then fit the padstones up to the beam. I sit them on wet mortar and wedge them in two places with suitable wooden wedges to keep the padstone tight up to the beam. Pack in as much mortar as you can but make sure that the joint is no greater than 20mm thick. The next day remove the wedges and fill in with more mortar. Then remove the props. Job done. Result is a beam against the joists and padstones against the beam.