Unusual worktop mitre

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by ­, Mar 29, 2008.

  1. ­

    ­ New Member

    How would you do this? A run of worktop 470 x 2800 meets another worktop at about a 158 degree angle. Post formed front edge.

    The 2800 x 470 is rectangular and in place.

    My worktop shop have said we can't just cut the new piece (the 150 degree piece) to butt joint to the end of this 470 x 2800 worktop, as the post formed edge will have a different profile due to not being cut to the same angle.

    They did not have an answer as to how to do this. Any bright ideas?
  2. lamello

    lamello New Member

    awkward to do but what I would do is return the postform along the short edge so it meets the postform on the installed piece, I have to be honest trying to do it with one piece already in will be very difficult. If it isnt a very expensive top then I would just take it out and start from scratch. It will cost you less.
  3. blueassedfly!

    blueassedfly! New Member

    you have to remove existing and work out the angle that both peices need to be cut at to join IE for a 45 degree join both ends would be cut at 22.5 degrees then the postform will meet perfectly. :) HTH
  4. kaintheo

    kaintheo New Member


    You will need to remove the old piece and then bisect the angle to give you the two angles that you need to cut the tops at.

    Like the shop said, the postform wont work otherwise.
  5. lamello

    lamello New Member

    The way I read it is that the section already in situ is already too short to mitre properly, thus the problem. Thats why i suggested returning the postform.

    Existing Top |
    wall \

    This is how I see it so there isnt enough to do a proper mitre and you now need to work a way out of returning the postform to the piece in situ. If the new piece is cut and has the postform section returned(tricky but possible) then the new section can butt up(difficult to do but possible).I think it will need two changes of angle to work. I hope i am being clear.

    Existing | \
    | \
    ------------| \Postformed
    \ New \
    \ \
  6. lamello

    lamello New Member

    That looks a right old mess, what comes up when you are writing a post isnt what comes up when it goes on!
  7. lamello

    lamello New Member

    The problem is is the way I read it is that the mitre cant be done because the existing section is flush and rectangular to to point of the angle thus the section already in cannot be mitred to meet the new section. As I said in my first post it is very difficukt to joint two tops where one is already in(but possible) and that the only way of getting the postform to follow in this case is to return the postform on the section that meets. If its just a case of a simple mitre then there isnt an issue its just a case of working it out. As I said in my first post i would suggest doing it the conventional way and getting two new tops because unless th OP is very skilled and experienced he will either take from here till eternity or make a dogs dinner of it.
  8. Captain Leaky

    Captain Leaky New Member

    I agree, it COULD be done but it will not be easy, you need a really skilled chippie.
  9. tea_time

    tea_time New Member

    Is it worth drawing on paper, scanning it and uploading to a free image host so we can see the layout, of how it is meant to look?
    the guys are right you need to bisect the angle to make the postform's align.
  10. murrmac

    murrmac Member

    this is the simplest problem in the world to solve, ***.

    you can't do it using a bog standard worktop mitre jig, however ...
  11. ­

    ­ New Member

    a picture. The fixed rectangular section will be too short to bisect the angle and really wants to stay as it is as it lines up with a drawer unit underneath. The new bit (the corner bit) will be a desk area (this is in an office).
  12. lamello

    lamello New Member

    Murmacc, I have to be honest I think you are insulting most peoples intelligence and abilities by suggesting that this is the easiest thing in the world, as has been already established the problem in this job is that one section has already been cut thus making a normal cut mitre impossible. If it was just a question of bisecting an angle then I dont think there would be many on here who would struggle to do that.
  13. lamello

    lamello New Member

    Right picture is up now, I had in my minds eye the 158 being the angle at the wall rather than the front of the worktop if you know what I mean. This can be jointed up so the postform matches up with a bog standard jig, what you need to do is take the existing top out and ensure that the the small front section of the masons mitre bisects the angle. You will have to set the jig freehand and cut your female first and then lay it on the new section to ensure a match up. It will mean your meeting point for the angle will move over a bit but thats the price you will have to pay.
  14. lamello

    lamello New Member

    I think anyway. You would need a bit of extra on the new section as the cut line will swing over into the existing top. I think. Bit late and its difficult to visualise.
  15. lamello

    lamello New Member

    Sorry and I meant cut the male first and lay it on to cut the female second.
  16. ­

    ­ New Member

    Ok, thanks for all that, it seems it's not viable really. We'll have to get a whole new top and start from scratch so that the joint is where we want it.
  17. murrmac

    murrmac Member

    Sorry for any offence , no insult intended, I assure you.

    Here's what I would do.

    Step 1. Take the new worktop, and cut it at 120 degrees to the postform. This will become the female half of the joint.

    Step 2. Clamp the worktop jig at 75 degrees to the postform, ignoring the cranked section which you would normally use for a 45 degree mitre, just use the straight edge. Also clamp a piece of 9mm MDF underneath the worktop, ( this will become a easily handled template).

    Step 3. Cut into the postform for as long as it takes to create the mitre, say 30 - 40 mm, making sure you cut through the 9mm MDF as well.

    Step 4. Unclamp the jig, and reposition it exactly parallel to the 120 degree cut, making sure that the ( stationary !) router cutter is firmly located tightly at the end of the mitre cut you have just made, and that the edge of the jig straight edge is firmly in contact with the guide bush. Once again, you are not using the 135 degree crank in the jig at any point during the whole process. Clamp firmly. If you are unsure of your ability to make the next cut without screwing up the nice radius which you are about to create, you could also clamp an auxiliary stop onto the jig (scrap piece of MDF ) to prevent the router from making any unwanted moves to the left. Complete the cut in as many passes as you need. You now have a nicely machined female w/top joint.

    Step 5. Measure and cut the new w/top to width and depth.

    Step 6. Measure the exact distance from the outermost edge of the postform to the point formed by the intersection of the two straight lines at the mitre. Remove the existing (470 mm) w/top, turn it upside down, and mark a line of exactly the same distance at an angle of 75 degrees to the postform. Cut accurately along this line with your router, using the straight edge section of the w/top jig. Turn the w/top over again so that the laminate is facing upwards.

    Step 6. Take the 9mm MDF which you machined along with the female w/top, and after cutting it to a convenient size, use it as a template to shape the point on the male w/top into a matching curve. This operation could be done in various ways, personally I would have no qualms about doing it entirely with my hand-held 3" belt sander. It could also be done with a sanding block and varying grits of sandpaper.

    Step 6. Machine the bolt recesses, if you are using bolts. Biscuit if necessary. Place both w/tops in position, tighten up.

    Step 6. Collect payment from customer and adjourn to the pub next door.
  18. ­

    ­ New Member

    OK, sounds easy....................... :(
  19. ­

    ­ New Member

    Well, can I say this......


    I got a large offcut of the worktop today and we cut one piece with a 90 degree end and the other with a 158 degree end and.................

    they butted up <u>perfectly</u>. The postformed edge was perfect.

    Flamin' worktop shop, what do they know with their 3 million quids worth of machinery.


    [Edited by: admin3]
  20. murrmac

    murrmac Member

    > I got a large offcut of the worktop today and we cut
    one piece with a 90 degree end and the other with a
    158 degree end and.................

    they butted up <u>perfectly</u>. The
    postformed edge was perfect.

    you are three hours early with this post, aren't you ?????

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