USB chargers/devices/sockets

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by robertpstubbs, Oct 13, 2018.

  1. robertpstubbs

    robertpstubbs Active Member

    To what extent are all USB chargers, devIces and sockets etc all compatible?

    I just bought an iPad and connected it to my iPhone charger, but thought it was charging slowly.

    On checking the iPad charger it is 5.2V x 2.4A and the iPhone one is 5V x 1A. If the iPad is connected to the small charger does it just charge slower or does it overload it? If the iPhone is connected to the large charger does it just use less current than available?

    I’ve never used wall sockets with built-in USB ports. What happens if the total load of all the devices plugged in exceeds their rating?
  2. Bazza

    Bazza Well-Known Member

    The iPAD will try and eat up all the power that it can much, but the iPhone charger's output will be limited to only 1amp, so it will take forever and a day to charge. It won't overload it.
    And you can plug your iPhone into the iPAD's charger without it exploding.

    Sockets with built-in USB ports usually have a combined max output. The MK one is rated at a total of 2A over two outputs. The Axiom has two ports, one at 2.4A and one at 1.2A. So check your chosen socket's spec, if you are going that way.

    Personally, I'd use a separate charger, rather than a dedicated cobo USB/13A socket. there is a new standard being bandied about (USB-C). If that gets traction, you can bet you'll have to remove all your old legacy USB sockets and get new ones...
  3. MGW

    MGW Well-Known Member

    Not only does the USB outlet restrict charge rate, but also the cable. I bought one of these [​IMG] and I found I had a load of low output cables, manly from pound world, it seems you always get 400 mA, but only some cables and USB outlets will give more. Typically both Samsung phone and pad are around 1.2A the iPad around 1.6A and the charger for my camera batteries shows 1.8A which to me at least proves my USB charging points built into 13A sockets have the ability to give more charge than any of the tablets require.

    However the number of cables I have binned as faulty has to be seen to be believed. That tester has really paid for its self. The new reversible Samsung connector does not seem to be a problem, but the reversible Apple connector time after time find it works one way up and not the other.

    There is a new USB outlet able to give over 5 volt to compatible items, but unless it gets hand shaking signal it drops to 5 volt so is backward compatible, this can charge faster, but at 1.2A a tablet will recharge in two to three hours, and with USB outlets around the house it is always near to an outlet.

    However pick up a pound world lead at 400 mA and two to three hours is six to eight hours with device switched off, if switched on then can be looking at 24 hours to charge. Without the meter shown it can take 5 minutes before my tablet will give me a good charge time, so hard to identity poor leads.

    I have binned plug in chargers and leads, but as yet no USB chargers built into sockets, used LAP and BG and all worked well.
  4. robertpstubbs

    robertpstubbs Active Member

    That is interesting. I have a load of old Belkin Male-A to Female-A USB extension cables (2m and 3m) which I use to extend charger cables etc. They are quite thick and I hope they would allow enough current. I was planning to get a lighter one (maybe reel type) for travel, but now I’m wondering how to get a good one.
  5. chippie244

    chippie244 Well-Known Member

    I had a phone with a USB C connector and it was useless and I had to bin the phone.
  6. robertpstubbs

    robertpstubbs Active Member

    Anybody know what current you get from typical modern car built-in USB sockets?

    My ‘58 TR didn’t come with a USB socket (or lighter socket or radio or heater). Looking on the net you can get a 2.1+1.0=3.1A waterproof double USB socket to work off 12/24V (Sinolec etc). I can’t tell whether it would drain power when nothing was connected, and therefore whether it should be wired permanently live off the battery, switched, or wired off the ignition.

    I’m not sure a USB socket would look right in the dashboard, so maybe I could make and fit an extra panel that could be upgraded as technology changes. Or USB sockets could be hidden in the lockable glovebox.

    I don’t know whether it would be worth fitting a radio and/or speakers to play music from a device, rather than just charging devices. Any idea whether there would be interference issues over USB? Many ignition/starter switches used to isolate the radio when the starter was operating, but the TR has separate ignition and starter switches. Also the standard spark plugs etc are not resistor ones.
  7. MGW

    MGW Well-Known Member

    I have had good and poor cig lighter USB units, however easy enough to swap when plugged into a cig socket, and there are other items which will also work from a cig socket so I would fit a cig socket rather than a USB outlet.

    What is 58? is that the date 1958 or a plate xx 58 xxx ? I assume 1958, and if so would want to fit it discretely, I remember 1956 when my dad bought a new car the heater was an optional extra, which he had in his Standard 8, but easy enough to fit as there was a water pump, now my friends Morris 8 was very different, no water pump so no flow, he had a washing machine pump to lay on fan belt and circulate water through heater.

    There were electric demisters with suckers that stuck to windscreen you can still get 150W mini fan heaters to defrost/mist windscreen, again good reason for a cig socket, as to if the dynamo can produce enough power is another question. 19 amp charge or with the longer dynamo 22 amp today seems laughable, think my car has a 125 amp alternator.

    I was looking as power as well, old Austin Gypsy had a 2.2 litre petrol engine with 58 BHP and with that I towed a caravan up Sutton Bank, bottom gear low ratio is about the same as my Kia Sorento but the diesel engine in that puts out 158 BHP. Not tried towing up steep hills, I would guess today one is not allowed to even try, even if the car should do it.

    Things have simply moved on.
  8. robertpstubbs

    robertpstubbs Active Member

    I’d need a long cable to reach where I keep the windscreen in the dining room, especially when driving around.

    I remember some cars had little red and black sockets on the dashboard which I think were used for inspection lamps.
  9. MGW

    MGW Well-Known Member

    Think they were for parking lights, do you remember the rubber lump with a light in end that was trapped in door window so you could park with a single 6W bulb burning rather than four. Seem to remember Vauxhall if you switched off ignition with side lights on and indicators on it would only show side lights on one side.

    Oh and the 150W fan heaters are 12 volt not 230 volt.
  10. robertpstubbs

    robertpstubbs Active Member

    I don’t remember the door window lights. But wouldn’t it be 6 (4 x 5W + 2 x 2W) bulbs if you included the 2 in the number plate light?

    I thought it is VW that just show one side of side lights.
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2018
  11. chippie244

    chippie244 Well-Known Member

    No Vauxhall did it too.
  12. robertpstubbs

    robertpstubbs Active Member

    Is this what you mean?

    Attached Files:

  13. MGW

    MGW Well-Known Member

    Yes spot on.

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