Used Log Cabin

Discussion in 'Landscaping and Outdoors' started by snappyfish, Apr 23, 2017.

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  1. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    Tempted. Can only laugh really, remember my original question was considering buying a used cabin just down the road and dismantling and re building. :confused:
     
  2. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    So which way would you run additional bearers now if I take down?
     
  3. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    Same way as you'd do now as bearers need to be perpendicular to the floorboards. If that's what you meant.

    Floorboards are left-right so bearers are fore-aft? Same setup as mine.
     
  4. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    So new additional concrete lintels or timber which ever I decide to use go underneath whats already there? But surely I don't want a perimeter ring like before I need airflow?
     
  5. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    You need a perimeter ring to support the cabin walls and the floor, however that needs to be lifted off the ground somehow to allow air flow. Danger then is that the whole lot gets lifted more than you want.

    I've used 4x2, sistered around the perimeter to create 4x4, so with a 1" gap you're looking at 5" lift of the whole cabin. Because I don't have a concrete base I was able to sink the subframe into the ground a bit. You might get away with 4x2 on its side with regular supports underneath, would only raise it by 3" or so then.
     
  6. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    Funny when I read this taken from Keops website. :confused:

    Should I allow air flow underneath my cabin?
    One cabin manufacturer claims that if you stand your log cabin on a concrete base then the floor will rot. Their argument is that if you elevate it off the ground on pillars then air will flow underneath and keep it dry.

    This is only true if the air is not moist! We find that it is more likely that the air underneath the elevated building will be very damp at times of the year from the ground conditions under the cabin and that there is an even greater risk of subjecting the under boarding to dampness. If the under boarding material is not totally impervious to moisture then rotting will take place much sooner. In fact the same company use chipboard as the under boarding and sometimes its purpose is to contain the Rock wool type insulation material under the top floor. So not only does the under boarding rot but then the insulation degrades in the moist environment also.
     
  7. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    Mixed messages there.
    - Define "moist", what percentage humidity is moist? 50%? 75%? 90%? 100%?
    - Even humid air won't be a problem unless it condenses on the under floor boarding, that normally means the boarding is cooler than the air.
    - depends what's underneath the cabin. I've got soil covered by strong weed control membrane then 20mm gravel so no vegetation which might attract moisture (like dew on your lawn)
    - chipboard will rot, period, its totally the wrong material to use in that situation.
    - I don't have any under floor boarding, just treated joists/battens, celotex and then a VCL to prevent moisture getting to the floorboards.

    Wood will rot if it can't dry out, almost a certainty without circulating air IMO.
     
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  8. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    Useful blog post here from Tuin, I found this site really useful

    https://www.tuin.co.uk/blog/base-requirements-for-log-cabins/

    "What I love about a timber frame base is that:

    • It can be moved.
    • It’s truly a temporary structure which is great in certain circumstances.
    • It allows air flow and therefore the timber will never rot even if it’s not treated.
    • It’s a cheap solution in inaccessible areas for concrete.
    • Cheap overall.
    • If subsidence occurs you can simply jack up the area concerned and re-pin.
    • A good system when flooding occurs naturally and does not affect it’s environment."
    And here, got most of my ideas from this post https://www.tuin.co.uk/blog/timber-frame-base-for-log-cabins/
     
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  9. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    Plastic fence post take the weight? And last a long time?
     
  10. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

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  11. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    Damn, I just don't have much time this year to take cabin down, winter and darker evenings are pushing in, definitely a job for next spring if I do.

    So for now...

    • Concrete is cut down to 3mm to 10mm in places due to tricky work with angle grinder
    • I need to seal tops of bearers (only some slight 1mm gaps in some places) and bottom of bearers, water runs down the wall and into gaps where concrete is not perfectly level (is clear sikaflex ok?)
    • Is a rubber Black Jack DPM (liquid rubber) or something similar a good idea on concrete slab sides and maybe even wood bearers?
    Thanks
     
  12. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    KIAB recommended EverBuild 825 from competitor to me. ** DPM available from the same place :) Sounds like good idea.

    If you rebuild, you can have the bottom logs overhang the timber below slightly and make sure everything is level and sealed to prevent water seeping in.
     
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  13. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    Yeah, rebuild is something for next year, I don't mind attempting it at all not shy of manual labour and work just what gets me is I paid people good money for advice and to do work as I simply don't have time.

    And it's ended up costing me time and money :mad:

    So I will use
    • Everbuild 825 to seal tops and bottom of bearers
    • Blackjack DPM on remaining bits of concrete and concrete sides to stop water getting in sideways.
    Hope this keeps most of the water out, want to get the floor down and get electrics in before real wet and cold weather comes. The only thing keeping my cabin dream alive is @Dr Bodgit cabin thread and helpful people here.
     
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  14. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    I learned a long time ago, if you want a job doing properly, do it yourself. There are some exceptions of course, but they are exactly that - exceptions to the rule. Finding good trades peeps who do a good job at a decent rate is hard. Chap who came round to look at my faulty cabin window asked me how long it took for me to put the cabin up - then said they do it in 3 hours. Throw it up I thought. That said, the two blokes who put my shed up did an excellent job, better than I would have done and quick too. But then I was watching over them and plying them with tea.

    I guess the floor and electrics can be done, or mostly done, without having to undo them next year when you rebuild. Or do them in such a way that it can come apart easily so don't put 1,000 screws into the floorboards.
     
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  15. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    Do the sealant & DPM first before you start putting the floor down and see if it does the job. If so, you might leave as is.
     
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  16. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    How did your floors boards go in?
     
  17. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

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  18. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    Swish :rolleyes: did you screw in secret way or straight down from to top as you are covering?
     
  19. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    Just screwed them in from the top. Its a cabin, not a palace :D

    Did the first few when fitting floor boards with the impact driver, but had to be careful not do drive the screws right through. The rest went in using my drill/driver with torque setting quite low.

    Had issues getting the boards to line up against each other straight, there are some small gaps between them in places.
     
  20. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    Ha, you play it down, but a man's cave is his palace.. all be it mine is a moist one at the moment.
     

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