Using din terminal blocks to extend fusebox cables

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by Coz, Aug 28, 2016.

  1. Coz

    Coz New Member

    Hi all,

    Iwant to replace my old fuse box for a rcd box but there is no give on the cables. Was wondering if anyones has used din connectors to extend cables to a new box and what ratings connectors to use and where to get them from.

    Thanks in advance
  2. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    Move CU up higher up from present postion & extend meter tails.
  3. Coz

    Coz New Member

    Yes, i was planning to put new rcd box above old and use din blocks to extend cables,

    But have never done it before or even know what to buy.

    Some advice on that would be appreciated
  4. PaulBlackpool

    PaulBlackpool Well-Known Member

    If you are not a qualified electrician do not attempt to fit a CU yourself.
    This is one thing you do not stretch the rules for (if you are so inclined).
    seneca and KIAB like this.
  5. Coz

    Coz New Member

    I passed my 2330 and 2332 and 2391 a few years ago and 17th edition.

    Ive decided to change my fuse box because the old one is literally on the floor and in reach of my newborn.

    Ive never used din connectors, all i want is some advice about them and if the ratings are like standard mcbs becaus i cannot find anything online about them.
  6. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    Agree 100%.

    You need to do full tests before changing CU to hightlight any possible faults with present wiring.

    And I would be looking at RCBO's for CU, which will combine the over current function of a MCB with the earth fault functions of a RCCB in a single unit.:)
  7. Coz

    Coz New Member

    Im asking for advice about din terminal blocks because i dont want to crimp that many cable to extend to the new box and JBs and to clunky
    I have never used din connectors so ive come on here asking for advice.
    Is it possible to get that advice?
  8. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    Some of older sparks :rolleyes: will be around later & comment on din terminal blocks.
  9. Bazza

    Bazza Well-Known Member

    When faced with this issue, I use WAGO connectors. They are now available for conductors up to 6mm. Also they are "maintenance free". DIN terminals have screwed terminals so will need to be left accessible.

    @Coz - and I suspect that you are trying avoid this issue - do remember that the change of a consumer unit is notifiable to your local authority. Although you have some elderly qualifications, you still need to be a member of one of the CPS (NAPIT, NIEIC,etc) to allow you to 'self-notify' the work.
    Or you need to open a building notice with your LABC (and pay their fee). They will want to inspect at various stages, and will expect you to be able to design, install, test and certify the whole shebang to BS7671. I guess you have a set of calibrated test gear that will allow you to do this?
  10. Coz

    Coz New Member

    Hey bazza,

    Ive got a meggar tester but to be honest, its been atleast 3 years since it was checked/calibrated. Do you think that will be an issue?

    Also can i not get someone to come check the work and sign it off?

    And with wago, are there specific ratings i need to say ring mains, lights and hob cable?

    Thanks for the replying

    Ps, i think the year i did my course was the year they changed to qualification to whatever it is now
  11. Bazza

    Bazza Well-Known Member

    A CPS member is only SUPPOSED to self-notify his own work. So you'd need to find a spark who'll trust you to do the work,and then lie to say it was his own.
    So how could you trust the results. When the uncalibrated tester says the RCD is working OK, and then your toddler sticks his/her fingers in a light socket, can you be sure what the result will be?

    Is it a multi function Megger tester? Dont forget your
    Remember the tests you'll need (Guidance Note #3, if you cannot remember)
    Insulation resistance
    RCD testing

    maybe others depending on your installation.
    KIAB likes this.
  12. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    Get a proper spark in to do the whole job.
  13. Coz

    Coz New Member

    @Bazza i know im not an a long serving sparky but yes, i know how to test continuity, and figure of 8 malarky and regulations regarding ccu installations.

    2 days ago i noticed the fuse box on the house we bought 6 months ago was 6 inches off the floor and the cable were tight.

    So being inexperienced with din/wago connectors, i came on here hoping i could ask a senior sparky about them and how they work.

    4 hrs later, all ive had is a refreshers course on regulations and not one persob being at all helpful in helping me learn about these utilities.

    All thats missing is for KIAB to refresh my ohms laws knowledge.

    But thanks anyway, il see if theres another forum or someone who can actually be helpful
  14. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member


  15. Lectrician

    Lectrician Screwfix Select

    Din rail terminals are not rated to current, which is perhaps odd. They come in different sizes, based on their terminal capacity. You can typically assume a 2.5mm would be good for 20amp etc.

    Din rail terminals are usually open on one side, the adjacent din rail terminal "closing" its neighbour. The last terminal in a run can then have a stop end fitted.

    Earth terminals clamp to the din rail, earthing it and each other.

    You can use earth terminals to act as "stop ends", or use seperate stop ends.

    Terminals are not compatible with each other in terms of them sitting happily together on a rail.
  16. Bazza

    Bazza Well-Known Member

    I gave you a practical, helpful response. Wasn't that good enough?

    The rest was a reminder of your legal responsibilities.

    If all you want is to protect the little one, then build a lockable cupboard round the offending item. Job done.
  17. Nicholbe

    Nicholbe Member

    Industrial din rail,terminals are current / voltage rated. Have a look at phoneix/ omega/ klippon ( weidmuller ) details on line , current rating for tails will not be issue however , as said above ,will need protection at ends and mtd in enclosure
  18. Bazza-spark

    Bazza-spark Well-Known Member

    I think you have missed some valuable infomation and advice here.

    However, as others have said DIN terminal are designed to be fitted to DIN rail, and DIN rail is designed to be fixed to a solid surface. So you would either need to make a break out box to house the termnals and fit that in the location of your existing cables, then extend these cables to the new CU position with the appropriate protection.

    All this would have to satisfy the building inspector if you wish to carry out the work yourself under a notification (which will probably cost you around £300) in addition to the potential mistakes you will make being inexperienced, or you could just pay a qualified registered electrician to carry out the work for you which probably won't cost you much more and you will have the satisfaction of knowing it is safe, notified and documented with no comebacks on you.

    I hope this answer satisfies your request when combined with the excellent answers by others.

    Kind regards
  19. JP.

    JP. Screwfix Select

    Din terminal blocks..:cool:
  20. stateit

    stateit Well-Known Member

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