What suggested finish for Oak?

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by KD, Jan 8, 2004.

  1. Sam Dingle

    Sam Dingle New Member

    Don't help this KD man, He's a cad and a bounder!
    ;)
    Sorry Kev!
     
  2. woodsmith

    woodsmith New Member

    Yes thanks Wolf, quite happy, the truth is out there:)
     
  3. Millyfish

    Millyfish New Member

    Thanks for the tips everyone.

    Wire wool? Only cos it sez so on the tin - I bow to your superior advice. Got my knee-pads at the ready.

    More interestingly, is there a good reason not to use Teak oil on oak? I've done a test on an offcut (albeit only with 3 coats) and apart from the colour being slightly more golden it seem fairly similar to the Danish oil.

    Regards Millyfish
     
  4. KD

    KD New Member

    Oi CB - NO!! - and I don't agree with that in the workplace!

    Anyway, finish will be danish oil - its not a floor so don't have to worry about caning my knees up!! Been there done that!!

    I am however having trouble finding a supplier for the Oak. Anyone know anywhere in N. Hants, nr Basingstoke, or SE London that can supply??
     
  5. ban-all-sheds

    ban-all-sheds New Member

    Wire wool? Only cos it sez so on the tin...

    Interesting - doesn't say that on mine.

    Anyhow, it is a Bad Idea. It depends on the wood, of course, but the oil can raise the grain, and cause problems even when applying it with a rag
     
  6. Millyfish

    Millyfish New Member

    Wire wool? Only cos it sez so on the tin...

    Its an old tin!! Exact words "For an outstanding finish the last coat of Danish Oil may be applied by rubbing over the surface with fine steel wool 000 grade..."

    I take the point though, it would seem a bad idea to have bits of steel in the grain - especially in oak.

    Still, what about the Danish vs Teak debate? Perhaps I should start a new thread.

    Regards

    Millyfish
     
  7. marcus72

    marcus72 New Member

    So coming back to the "V" word. What about these new quick drying varnishes? I'm not sure I'd put it on oak but I've recently done an old pine floor (in a heavy traffic halway) with Ronseal Diamond Hard floor varnish and so far I've been very impressed. Goes on like water, doesn't smell, dries quickly, nice satin finish. And, so far, very hard wearing. F*ing expensive but you could say it does exactly what it says on the tin and you can't ask for more than that. Any comments or opinions from the more experienced wood workers on this kind of product ?
     
  8. ban-all-sheds

    ban-all-sheds New Member

    Oh I think we all know what they are going to say...
     
  9. Dewy

    Dewy New Member

    But how long will Ronseal Diamond Hard floor varnish last before showing signs of wear once the weather changes?
     
  10. WOLF

    WOLF New Member

    oh! about a month, maybe six weeks!!
     
  11. woodsmith

    woodsmith New Member

    Marcus, I've been told by Mrs Woodsmith not to be unkind! the deed is done.

    The problem with varnish and particularly the water based ones is that they form a hard shell on the surface of the softer wood. With foot traffic and wood movement the surface breaks down and water/ dirt gets into the wood.

    It can look more durable than an oil finish in its early life but then oil can easily be cleaned and recoated.

    Water based varnish is difficult to repair, often needing sanding right back to the wood as it forms a relatively thick layer which when it starts to flake looks particularly bad.

    My suggestion is that you try to protect the floor with a rug or carpet, particularly where it will get the most wear.

    Keith
     
  12. woodsmith

    woodsmith New Member

    Millyfish, I've seen that they recommend wire wool too, so it just goes to shown you can't believe everything on the tin!!

    It is possible to use wire wool but only on very dense tight grained woods, which oak is definately not.

    Danish/Teak oil; both oils are blends of oil with resin and driers added but the Teak oil is formulated to suit Teak and similar woods which are naturally oily.

    Actually Teak does not need protection at all, the oil is put on to enhance its appearance.

    If you look at the technical information for Teak oil it specifically states "unsuitable for oak" and recommends its use for "Teak" type garden furniture.

    I hope this is of some help, use Danish oil for interior oak and Tung oil for exterior oak and you won't go far wrong.

    Keith
     
  13. marcus72

    marcus72 New Member

    Thanks for the explanation woodsmith. I thought the stuff was too good to be true. Fortunately we do have a few rugs and mats covering the busiest areas so I'll be keeping an eye on the rest of it.
     
  14. Millyfish

    Millyfish New Member

    Woodsmith - thanks Keith.

    I can sleep now with my mind made up - It's to be as follows:

    2 coats 50:50 Danish/White Spirit
    3 coats neat Danish (no wire wool)
    Wax till my arms ache then some more.

    Regards and thanks to all.

    MillyFish
     

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