What type & size screws are best to fix 18 mm floorboards

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Tas, Dec 16, 2003.

  1. Tas

    Tas New Member

    I have to screw floorboards 18 mm thick. Can someone tell me which screws would be ideal for this job?
     
  2. RH

    RH New Member

    18mm is about 3/4" so just about any screws from 1 1/2" or 2" to about 6" long would work.

    If it was me, I'd go for 2" no 8 or 10's
     
  3. woodsmith

    woodsmith New Member

    Tas use 50mm screws if you use longer screws you stand a chance of hitting any electrical wiring that runs through the joists
     
  4. woodsmith

    woodsmith New Member

    Mr Fish don't you ever sleep ;)
     
  5. Tas

    Tas New Member

    Thank you but what type of screw?
    Gold, quicksilver, powerdrive or Drywall???
     
  6. RH

    RH New Member

    Mr Fish don't you ever sleep ;)

    Nah, it's overrated. ;)
    ----
    Have a search through this forum, there was a discussion on the different types of screws recently.
     
  7. woodsmith

    woodsmith New Member

    Tas, quicksilver screws or goldscrews, I use goldscrews but the choice is yours. Don't use turbogold their heads have a nasty habit of snapping off.
     
  8. WOLF

    WOLF New Member

    metal ones, with a slot or a cut cross in the top. and a spiral bit of metal sticking out all the way down.!!!!.well you did ask what type of screws......oops! sorry, being a bit dappy!!
    what ever the thickness of the item being secured say 10mm, then multiply it by 3..=30mm... so 18mm x 3, for your case is 54, (approximatly 50MM or good old 2" wood screws.and due to the longevity required something with a passivated finish would be good... also helps stop squeaking(so do mousetraps). and one more thing, use a screw that has a shank to the top, just below the head, do not use screws with thread right up to the top.and if possible, pre-drill the holes through the flooring, and countersink each one, the results are better...
    and before anyone asks, (shanked screws) if you use a full spiral, then it will pull the flooring down TOO tight, and will not allow natural movement of the joists, therefore reduces cracked ceilings, and pre-drill&c/sinking will allow the flooring to be pulled SNUG, and the c/sink will eliminate the screw protruding..YES, i know it is more time consuming, but do you want to do the job more than once....
    i have a sign in my workshop, that states i don't always look busy... because i done the job right first time...
    and woodsmith.. reduce the amount of torque on the drill/driver quite a bit... when the torque limiter cuts in, jump it up a notch at a time...... most screws even bog cheapies should not sheer(unless hardwood and no pilot hole... no teaching to suck eggs... but others read these posts)
    regards matt
     
    Powerelec likes this.
  9. WOLF

    WOLF New Member

    and mrfish, fresh,tropical or marine
     
  10. woodsmith

    woodsmith New Member

    Wolf, I've had a lot of problems with the stainless turbo ultra they can snap if I take every precaution going!! that is into oak but what are these screws for if you can't use them in oak?

    The snapping on the turbogold is apparent when you find you've left your best chisel under a board and when you come to try to get them back out....Snap!!!
     
  11. RobertF

    RobertF New Member

    I might be youngish but have many old fashioned habits, if your floorboards are "real" timber I'd be nailing them in place with cut clasp nails,iron possibly steel but don't bother trying to find gold ones.
     
  12. woodsmith

    woodsmith New Member

    I always use one gold screw in each job, just like they used to put a golden rivet in a ship for luck ;)
     
  13. kesh

    kesh New Member

    I agree, cut nails are a very under-rated fixing! Imo quicksilver screws are good.

    Tas, I think I know you from somewhere, drywall screws??
     
  14. RH

    RH New Member

    and mrfish, fresh,tropical or marine

    Marine 'o' course!
     

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