Where can I find these 1930's style floor boards?

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by SmugDictator, Jul 31, 2020.

  1. SmugDictator

    SmugDictator Member

    Some of my floorboards need replacing but I am struggling to find something similar.

    The house was built in around the 1930s.

    The depth seems to be around 22mm.


    The width including the tounge seems to be around 130mm.


    I can see where some have been replaced historically, they just used what looks like pine and I guess cut it to size.

    I popped into a builders merchant today and the best they could offer would be 5 x 1" and cut it to size with a jigsaw. I can certainly give this a go. In any case it would be hard to get the tongues reinserted as I am not replacing the whole floor.

    Would be grateful for some ideas and options.

    Thanks in advance.
  2. Astramax

    Astramax Screwfix Select

    Reclamation/salvage yard, used timber dealers, look out for demolition in your area.......very difficult to source!
    Wayners and Jord86 like this.
  3. SmugDictator

    SmugDictator Member

    Sounds like a non starter then.

    What would be the best "modern" timber to use? Ideally I would like something of a similar depth if I can.

    Thanks again.
  4. Astramax

    Astramax Screwfix Select

    Ebay is worth a look. You could take boards from another room and replace a larger area in that room with new boards packed under the boards to bring the up to the required height, did that 20 odd years back, think I used 3mm hardboard to pack, could use mdf or ply though.
  5. These boards would have been machined out of ex 6" X 1" once prepared all round the par size would be 5 3/4" X 7/8" or in new money about 146mm X 22mm the only way to replace them is if buying prepared timber, get the next size up, sorry I have no idea what that is nowadays as I buy by the cube and rip to size myself as I mainly still work in imperial. then rip the new boards to size. probably just as easy and cheap to order from a joinery shop or your timber yard if they have a mill set up.
    Jord86 likes this.
  6. Astramax

    Astramax Screwfix Select

    Loads of the correct size on ebay.....:)
  7. SmugDictator

    SmugDictator Member

    Hi, thanks all for your help.

    I think looking at my picture the width is around 125-130mm. It is a bit hard to tell as they have all generally been smashed up so not sure what the actual dimensions are. When I can get the floor up again tomorrow morning I'll measure the gap I need to fill and try and find a board to fit it.

    A couple of quick questions:

    a) What does PTG stand for? Guessing something "tongue and groove".

    c) What about screws to screw them in. At present then are either nailed with actual decent nails or some have plaster board nails in :D. I have seen Screwfix do a specific flooring screw that has two threads on it. Should I get that?

    Thanks again.
  8. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    What about 'b)'?

    Planed, tongued and grooved, and yes you can buy the flooring screws if you wanted, but any decent part threaded 2 1/2"/ 65 mm screw will do.
    WillyEckerslike likes this.
  9. SmugDictator

    SmugDictator Member

    Out of interest:

    b) why does the screw need to be part threaded?


    d) does the diameter matter? Some of these screws will be driven into holes where nails were previously so will a 4.5mm or 5mm diameter screw be ok?

    Thanks again :)
  10. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    E) Because the smooth shank serves to pull the two surfaces tightly together, fully threaded just drives through, any small gap will end up a squeak and severe psychological torture every time you walk over it.

    Z) Either 4.5 or 5mm is a good choice, any smaller and the head of the screw doesn't always pull the boards tight especially if cupped, and any bigger is real hard work to drive and risks splitting the boards.

    METRO MARK Active Member

    I used these on my creaking floors after doing some CH pipe work, and a chipboard floor worked for me
  12. Surely cut nails for fixing floorboards, narrower than screws so less likely to split boards but probably 30 years since I last fitted any.
    Deleted member 11267 likes this.
  13. Yes, cut nails or floor brads, secret nailed for tongue and grooved and face nailed for square edged.
    There seems to be an aversion to using a hammer nowadays, don't know if it is laziness or what.
  14. Dan Parkinson

    Dan Parkinson Active Member

    I've always thought that part threaded were the cause of squeaks. When the timber shrinks it will slide up and down the shaft ;-) whereas a fully threaded screw will prevent this.

    Always use full threaded on chipboard flooring as it won't split. Obviously there's a chance of t&g boards splitting if using a smaller pilot hole than the screw.
  15. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    So a traditional floor nailed will be less prone to squeaks and creaks than a traditional floor screwed and maybe even a bit of glue?
  16. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    Look any of the tongue tite, wirox, floor tite screws etc all of them are part threaded. This topic is always a hotbed of debate.
  17. A square edged board floor when nailed down with cuts looks fine, it it was screwed down it would look naff.
  18. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    I know that, and I agree with you but the OP asked about screws and I advised what to look out for.
    Deleted member 11267 likes this.

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