Why wont my drill go into my brick wall?

Without sds you need to push really hard, try drilling a smaller hole first.
 
It looks to be because you are using an SDS drill bit in what sounds like a standard drill driver, with no hammer action or masonry drill capacity and it may be my eyes but I thought the drill is in reverse too.
 
Jord86 said:
It looks to be because you are using an SDS drill bit in what sounds like a standard drill driver, with no hammer action or masonry drill capacity and it may be my eyes but I thought the drill is in reverse too.
Click to expand...
It's a Guild drill from argos and it has a hammer option. It's turning clockwise.
 
If you are going to be drilling into fired brick, then you really need a rotary hammer drill.

There is also the issue of bit cooling. Simply put, if you apply a carbide-steel bit into a material like brick or stone, and keep grinding away, very quickly the cutting edges of the tool (ie. the drill bit) is going to get very hot. It will, quite literally, lose its temper. Without going into a lot of metallurgical science, once steels and carbides get too hot, they become soft, and are unable to effectively cut away the material they are supposed to be removing.

Solutions:

1) Use a proper rotary hammer drill.

and

2) Make sure you keep it cool. A little bucket of water you keep dipping the drill bit into as you drill, will give you much better results/
 
First off you've done a good job to get an sds bit centred in a standard chuck, well done.
Unfortunately the sds bit you're using is most likely only any good for aerated blocks, plasterboard and other soft materials.
Buy a Bosch multi construction bit from our hosts (or other supplier) and I'm sure it'll go through no probs.
 
Basically use a better drill bit. It’s entirely normal for those cheap sets to be poor even when new and once blunt worse than useless. Post a pic of the tip of the one in the video.
 
Truckcab79 said:
Basically use a better drill bit. It’s entirely normal for those cheap sets to be poor even when new and once blunt worse than useless. Post a pic of the tip of the one in the video.
Click to expand...
Here you go. My camera wouldn't let me zoom in too far for some reason.
 

Attachments

  • 294998344_2375944502587818_634193546116150994_n.jpg
    294998344_2375944502587818_634193546116150994_n.jpg
    337.1 KB · Views: 63
  • 295078782_2375944605921141_5682144773459500799_n.jpg
    295078782_2375944605921141_5682144773459500799_n.jpg
    230 KB · Views: 63
Your problem is as above, you're using an SDS+ bit in a standard hammer drill.

The hammer drill has a mechanism that makes the whole chuck, together with the bit in it, vibrate "in and out".

An SDS drill has a mechanism whereby the whole bit is a loose sliding fit in the chuck, and a mechanism inside the drill bashes the blunt end of the drill, whacking the business end into the masonry, like someone using a hammer and chisel, so there's less "weight" to move in and out.

SDS drills are very good for making holes in masonry, but **** at precision.

So, anyway, as above. Use your smallest masonry bit first, then enlarge the hole with a bigger bit (don't press too hard when you enlarge the hole or you may shear off the tungsten carbide piece brazed into the end of the drill) You might care to buy a small diameter "normal", non-SDS bit if you haven't got a small SDS one (by the way, SDS bits don't fit well into standard chucks).

Don't rapidly cool the bit in water, it is likely to k-nacker your bit. Tungsten carbide is a sintered material that's susceptible to thermal shock.

Edit:

This is the Argos SDS drill:

https://www.argos.co.uk/product/4533102?clickSR=slp:term:guild drill:6:37:1

This is what I assume you have:

https://www.argos.co.uk/product/4643896?clickSR=slp:term:guild drill:4:37:1
 
Last edited:
MRY said:
Your problem is as above, you're using an SDS+ bit in a standard hammer drill.

The hammer drill has a mechanism that makes the whole chuck, together with the bit in it, vibrate "in and out".

An SDS drill has a mechanism whereby the whole bit is a loose sliding fit in the chuck, and a mechanism inside the drill bashes the blunt end of the drill, whacking the business end into the masonry, like someone using a hammer and chisel, so there's less "weight" to move in and out.

SDS drills are very good for making holes in masonry, but **** at precision.

So, anyway, as above. Use your smallest masonry bit first, then enlarge the hole with a bigger bit (don't press too hard when you enlarge the hole or you may shear off the tungsten carbide piece brazed into the end of the drill) You might care to buy a small diameter "normal", non-SDS bit if you haven't got a small SDS one (by the way, SDS bits don't fit well into standard chucks).

Don't rapidly cool the bit in water, it is likely to k-nacker your bit. Tungsten carbide is a sintered material that's susceptible to thermal shock.

Edit:

This is the Argos SDS drill:

https://www.argos.co.uk/product/4533102?clickSR=slp:term:guild drill:6:37:1

This is what I assume you have:

https://www.argos.co.uk/product/4643896?clickSR=slp:term:guild drill:4:37:1
Click to expand...
This is what I have. Buy Guild 2.0AH Cordless Impact Drill And 100 Accessories - 18V | Drills | Argos
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top