Window Seat Top

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by DIYaster, May 24, 2007.

  1. DIYaster

    DIYaster New Member

    I have constructed a frame for a window seat in my Victorian House but am finding it difficult to source a suitable top.

    The size I'm after is 2.5m long, 0.58 deep and 2cm thick.

    Have thought about wood kitchen worktop but it is not inkeeping.

    I spoke to a Sawmill who said for this size they would have to cut it fresh from a tree, meaning it would still contain moisture (be greenish in colour) and therefore could be likely to twist or split as it dries.

    They suggested using a hardwood e.g. oak but would likely have to be made up of 3 bits.

    The seat top is to remain decorative i.e. not intending a cushion or anything so want a clean finish.

    Anyone come across this scenario before or have any helpful suggestions?

    Thanks
     
  2. dunc

    dunc New Member

    Get down to a decent timber yard and ask for it to be made up. It will be jointed in smaller sections but it will still look very good.
     
  3. DIYaster

    DIYaster New Member

    Hi thanks for your input.

    Have spoken to timber yard - it would have to be made up of 3 sections, jointed and polished for oak it's cost around £275 - Ouch!

    Everyone else seems to use ply with a decorative edge ??!!- I may see if I get can hold of some pine instead, as stained it should look ok but at a fraction of the cost.
     
  4. 500ftrule

    500ftrule New Member

    If you're worried about fitting in with your Victorian abode than reclamation may be the way to go. Timber from an old church pew back might meet your dimensions, except you may struggle to find something 2" thick. Depending on your locality though, reclamation yards may not always be cheap. You may not better the £275 price you were quoted for the new oak (which I feel is actually a pretty good price if it's done properly).
     
  5. dewaltdisney

    dewaltdisney New Member

    There are a number of ways to do this. You could try tongue and groove floorboards. These are easy to glue up and the T&G provides a good joint but you will need to cut the two long edges off to have clean faces. The only probelm is that the T&G boards may have been machined in such a way that you cannot alternate the annual rings which help reduce the cupping effect.

    You could get a biscuit jointer, SFD had them for £20 recently, and then you could then join plain timber wood strips into a panel.

    Oak would be nice but it is generally only available in rough sawn and you would really need a planer thicknesser to get the stock prepared. I would reckon that the oak for this job would only be £40 rough sawn.

    You could of course just do a rubbed joint if you have some cramps. Modern glues are very strong these days.

    Hope this helps

    DWD
     
  6. joiner_sim

    joiner_sim New Member

  7. foxy

    foxy New Member

    Done a few of these. Use oak (or whatever) veneered mdf lipped with a piece of the real stuff biscuited on. Cut out a hinged flap and finish with wax, oil or water based satin varnish. A 4mm veneered sheet is about £30 which you can stick onto an 18mm sheet. You can get just veneer and apply yourself but its much harder than a pre covered mdf board. Lob a few scatter cushions around and the jobs a good un.
     

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