Wiring a new electric hob and single under counter oven.

what size cable is supplying the circuit ?
what KW rating is the oven  and hob ?
what size over current protection device is fitted ?
if the oven is over 3KW then it can not be connected with a  plug/socket

 

Best ask B&Q where you bought it

 

If you are Midlands based I can do it for you. However, general rule-of-thumb. Most SINGLE electric ovens are rated at 3kW or less and are supplied fitted with a plug. Most DOUBLE electric ovens are rated over 3kW and require their own 32A radial circuit and will not have any connection pre-wired. Insttead the app;liance has a terminal connection plate on the back accessed under a cover. Most CERAMIC hobs are rated above 3kW and also require a 32A radial circuit. Again these won't have any pre-wired means of connection. If you have a 32A radail circuit installed for your cooker and your appliances total 15kW or less you are allowed to connect both on the same radial circuit. If you have a single oven and anceramic hob, the ceramic hob goes on the 32A radial and the oven plugs in to a socket.

These are general guidelines and not a catch-all so keep in mind.

 

UP,

Which single ovens are supplied with a plug? Thats a new one on me !!!!!

Snezza31

 

A plug would be directive , but many have a 1mm 1.5mm flex which is obviously plug friendly Doh

 

Why is it a new one on you, Snezza? I have seen loads of single ovens delivered with a flex and a plug ready to plug the appliance in. The larger single ovens (over 3kW) and double ovens as I explained in my post need to be hard wired on to either the cooker control or the cooker outlet plate if one is provided. So now you know.

 

Hi UP,
Well, now I know apparently! Only you havent answered my question mate!

My question was simple! Which single ovens are delivered with a 13amp 3 pin plug on? Its just that I have never seen one.

Ive fitted, litterally, hundreds of ovens but I cant recall ever seeing one come with a plug on it. Manufacturers name???

Snezza31

 

Sorry for any confussion Snezza but hey ho. I usually ask for the oven ratings off the customer anyway to be on safe side, but single oven and socket has generally been the norm. Qualification of my statement is LESS than 3kW.

 

AHA!
That explains it now! Single ovens dont come with a plug on mate, of any description. As you said, they can be wired into a 13A plug as long as they are less than 3kw.

Most of the single ovens that I supply and fit are rated at 16A, which as we all know , makes it a bit more of a pain in the ... to get an adequate supply for. Combi Microwaves are a different story altogether.............!

 

I don't know where you're getting the 3kW figure from, BS7671 says that cookers of 2kW or over should be on a dedicated circuit.  3 kW is right on the limit for 13 amps, you must have seen what happens to 13a plugs and fcu's on immersion heater elements? I don't think a 3 kW oven on a 13a plug is a good idea, even if it is on a dedicated circuit.

 

Hey guys,
I Know this is an old post but firstly I've just bought a new oven, a Hotpoint, and guess what...it comes with a 13A plug pre fitted. (So there's a manufacturer for you snezza31 )
The old cooker and ceramic hob were wired into the cooker circuit using a seriously large piece of choc block...mmm. Bit worrying I thought, but it's been ok for the last 10 years.
Obviously I mustn't chop the plug off or the warranty goes out the window. So I've wired a 13A loose socket to come off the choc block and plugged the oven into that, whilst the hob is wired straight to the choc block. So the hob and oven still come off the same circuit.
The question is, is this ok or should I be getting something better than choc block (connector block)?

Thanks

 

The choc-block is ok provided it's heavy enough for the current involved, it should be in enclosure of some sort though.

 

Cookers hardly ever run at full load, thats why they can be plugged in. Diversity. I would say that the vast majority of electric single ovens are plugged in to a socket.

 

Agreed sen. However, personally you would be far better removing the connector block and using a 30A jb. The jb is totally enclosed and is designed for the joint whereas connector blocks should, as you point out, be inside an enclosure rather than left in the open and wrapped in insulation tape.

 

Hi I’m new to the community and I could need some advice please.
I have had a new hob fitted by a friends mate.I now use air fryer more than the oven.
Since hob was fitted the oven was removed this is on 240v plug and refitted.
When I turned the oven on it keeps trippy my fuse box and I have pulled it out and cannot
See any loose connections ? Also I noticed a connector box used from my kitchen isolator
To my ceramic hob to which after reading reviews I’m in doubt .I wii try to enclose photos
So that will help with any help please thanks Tony.
Sorry I have difficulty loading photos at the moment but from my oven I have a small length
Of blue,brown and green/yellow to a connector then the same wires to a 240v plug.
My hob has a wire from the isolated thicker wires black,red and open earth into a connector
Chock ox joining up with 3 twin wires from the hob that links to L 1, L 2, N, and Earth on the hob.
Is this ok? But why is my oven tripping ?

 

That is an urban myth.

 

When you get the pictures start a new thread with this ^ in it. Get some pics of the "fuse box" too.

 

As @Coloumb said, start a new thread.

Plus, and this could well be me, I can't follow what you are saying because of random capital letters and sentences that don't make sense. I think your only chance of help is by attaching photos.