Wiring an oven

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by Bobharford, Sep 14, 2004.

  1. Bobharford

    Bobharford New Member

    This is my next job!
    I have a new AEG under counter singleoven to replace the old one.
    The oven has no plug in flex like the last one only thre empty terminals L,N PE
    Can i assume it is Ok to use 2.5 cable to go from the oven terminal to a 3 pin 13 amp plug and plug this into the wall socket that the old oven was in?
  2. Jonny

    Jonny New Member

    What is the rating of the oven? Although some ovens can theoretically be plugged in, the regs are keen on a seperate radial circuit. Even if the load is just under 13A, that is taking away a reasonable amount of power from your ring main. Run a new 16A radial from the CU if this is feasible?
  3. Bobharford

    Bobharford New Member

    230...240 volts A new circuit would involve channels knocked in walls and floorboards up very big jobette!
  4. eawr89

    eawr89 New Member

    Hi Bobharford.

    Johnny was asking for the Ampere (A) or kilowatt (kW) rating, one or both of which should appear on a label on the appliance.
  5. sparks

    sparks New Member

    Bob the rating of the oven will be stated in watts or kilowatts on the data plate of the appliance, divide the wattage stated by a nominal voltage of 230volts and this will give you the amperage that the appliance draws ( kilowatts / voltage = Amperage, even if this is below 13amps it would be better to have a separate radial circuit for the supply, perhaps you could use the existing cooker supply if there is one.
  6. Bobharford

    Bobharford New Member

    No existing cooker supply!
    An electrician has put in a new radial circuit nearby which has two sockets one for kettle the other free, how about if i plug it into that one? with 13 amp cable and 3 pin socket.
    The only thing on it then will be the kettle and the cooker.

    BTW there is no wattage anywhere on the oven or manuals!
    The shop I bought it from don't know either!
  7. Jonny

    Jonny New Member

    Installing its own dedicated radial circuit is the best (some would say only) way of supplying it, but if this is not feasible, run it from a fused spur off the radial you mention you have.
    If the load from the extra sockets is not much, this may be alright. What is the rating of the radial circuit (20A or 30/32A?). All this is only applicable if the rating of the cooker is less than 3kW / 13A.
    If higher, you could dedicate the radial to the cooker, and find an alternative power source for the sockets (extend a nearby ring?).
  8. Bobharford

    Bobharford New Member

    Mrs harford has just pointed out she wants the dishwasher on the same socket as the dishwasher and kettle. I am thinking this is too much load?
    Not sure what the circuit rating is. Annoying thing is the shop said bung a plug on it and the sparks could have run another circuit in the same spot when he was digging into the walls which are all plastered now.
    How can I find out the rating of the circuit will it be on the fuse ?
    It is 2.5mm cable.
  9. The Trician

    The Trician New Member

    Get your hammer and chisel out and do the job properly!

    Ensure that you use heat resistant flex and a cooker connection unit for the final connection between the cooker connection unit and the oven connection point.

    Use 4.00mm cable to feed it just in case. You have already stated that you don't know the oven rating in KW (Try doing a search on Google for the AEG site -you might get more info there) so 4.00mm from the CU should cover installation menthods/length of run etc, even if it is only a 3KW item.

  10. nigel

    nigel Guest

    A quick search on Aeg web site should provide oven details.
  11. ban-all-sheds

    ban-all-sheds New Member

    I'm pretty sure that's illegal....
  12. Addie

    Addie New Member

    the information is normally on the inside of the oven door
  13. Bobharford

    Bobharford New Member

    Decided to chisel out and runa cable as advised above. Wiring to the consumer unit: should I get a sparks to do that bit?
    One last thing could the cooker wiring unit go directly behind the oven in the wall?
  14. The Trician

    The Trician New Member

    the cable (4.00mm twin and earth) from the consumer unit should be terminated into a cooker connection unit which can be sunk into the wall - make sure that you buy a 35 or 47mm galvanised plaster depth box so that you'll have plenty of room to connect the cable.

    The heat-resistant flex should then be connected into this and to your oven.

    Up to you whether or not run you decide to run the cable or you get a sparky to do it for you.

  15. 2be2

    2be2 New Member

    On their web site AEG seem keen to tell you about their energy ratings and are prepared to declare the voltage and frequency of the supply required for their built-in ovens but their not so forthcoming with watts and amps. In the technical data for some built-in single electric ovens they state 'fuse required (amps) 16' but for others this line is omitted or it contains 'fuse required (amps) no'. Uh?
  16. ban-all-sheds

    ban-all-sheds New Member

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