L
lee49
Guest
limit? how do you do that? is there a switch or something
J
jonathanc
Guest
not sure - was listed as a feature. have a good read of the manual! I suspect there will be some setting or switch somewhere
gg1a
New Member
Hi sorry for hi jacking an old post .but im doing the same . I have b40 cooker fuse at board , then a double socket at back of oven from cooker unit . The oven and gas ignition was plugged into this . I want to add induction hob . Can i blank off socket and wire in a dual plate , with existing wiring , hardwiring cooker and hob , as i have a seperate feed for cooker
Can any one help
Thanks
Can any one help
Thanks
I too am wanting to do this. I have B32 and want a single oven and induction hob. Having ploughed through loads of specification on AO.com it seems the vast majority of the cheaper single ovens only take 13amps, some even come with a 13 amp socket. So I think I can just plug the oven into the ring main and use the 32amp feed for the hob. Are there any problems with doing this, please?
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gg1a
New Member
I had electrician do this. What he done was wire the cable from cooker switch into a socket for oven then a 6mm cable from socket to outlet plate then induction wired to that . Therefore plug in oven.. and hardwire induction hob
Thanks GG1a, I think the difference is that you have 40amps available and your electrician would have checked that the sum of the hob and oven didn't add up to more than that. Because my house is quite old I only have a 32amp circuit which most hobs will want all of . So I am looking to see if I can use the ring main to supplement the supply to the kitchen, i.e. plug the oven in to the ring main and not the cooker (hob) supply.
What kilowatt ratings are the hob and oven that you intend to buy ?
It's very likely that both can be connected to the 32amp radial circuit that you have .
If the oven comes with a 13 amp plug it can be plugged into a ring final circuit , (but it would be better on its own circuit ,just to leave more capacity on the ring for other load's that may be connected to the ring)
Sparky2020202020
New Member
Appendix 15????
Sparky2020202020
New Member
Banallsheds
Well-Known Member
Diversity!
Sparky2020202020
New Member
Really???
Hi everyone - another post hijacker here Im afraid.
This thread has been really helpful to me but I have a slightly different setup and a “B32” question.
I am having to replace a weird narrow old single electric built under oven plus separate induction plate hob with a freestanding electric oven.
This is not my choice but it looks like the only available solution because the gap between the units is only 595mm. The kitchen is old, there is no dedicated cabinet for the oven.
So, trying to figure a solution I reckon take out the lot, chop out a bit of worktop and slide in a 55cm freestanding oven.
I’m going to pay for installation obvs but my question is about the connection on my kitchen wall.
I managed to pull out the oven (almost braining myself in the process as it was so heavy it fell on the floor yaaay) and I see that there is a socket&spur setup. (Socket was for the oven and spur has the hob connected.)
The consumer unit has a switch that says “cooker” and reads B32. (Thanks for all the posts about that by the way!!)
What I’m wondering is whether the installer will be able to use this spur or even the existing circuit to connect a freestanding oven. I’m thinking there’s a potential issue there as a freestanding oven is a more powerful appliance than a hob? Like is the circuit even powerful enough? thanks!!
This thread has been really helpful to me but I have a slightly different setup and a “B32” question.
I am having to replace a weird narrow old single electric built under oven plus separate induction plate hob with a freestanding electric oven.
This is not my choice but it looks like the only available solution because the gap between the units is only 595mm. The kitchen is old, there is no dedicated cabinet for the oven.
So, trying to figure a solution I reckon take out the lot, chop out a bit of worktop and slide in a 55cm freestanding oven.
I’m going to pay for installation obvs but my question is about the connection on my kitchen wall.
I managed to pull out the oven (almost braining myself in the process as it was so heavy it fell on the floor yaaay) and I see that there is a socket&spur setup. (Socket was for the oven and spur has the hob connected.)
The consumer unit has a switch that says “cooker” and reads B32. (Thanks for all the posts about that by the way!!)
What I’m wondering is whether the installer will be able to use this spur or even the existing circuit to connect a freestanding oven. I’m thinking there’s a potential issue there as a freestanding oven is a more powerful appliance than a hob? Like is the circuit even powerful enough? thanks!!
Attachments
Bazza
Screwfix Select
Maybe, maybe not.
You have left off the essential information:
What is the power rating of your new cooker?
Also, does the socket in the photo turn off when you switch off the 32A cooker MCB?
Bazza your first question power rating of new cooker - it says connection required 11.2W. I’ve attached 2xshots of the manual though from manufacturer in case I’ve given you a wrong answer 
Your second question - affirmative. Tested the socket and it does indeed have no power supply when the cooker MCB is switched off.
I’m thinking I should go with this zanussi because it’s a compromise between my (not massive) budget with a bit of reliability? There are some cheaper ones like Beko/Indesit but their reputation for durability....
Your second question - affirmative. Tested the socket and it does indeed have no power supply when the cooker MCB is switched off.
I’m thinking I should go with this zanussi because it’s a compromise between my (not massive) budget with a bit of reliability? There are some cheaper ones like Beko/Indesit but their reputation for durability....
Attachments
Bazza your first question power rating of new cooker - it says connection required 11.2W. I’ve attached 2xshots of the manual though from manufacturer in case I’ve given you a wrong answer
Your second question - affirmative. Tested the socket and it does indeed have no power supply when the cooker MCB is switched off.
I’m thinking I should go with this zanussi because it’s a compromise between my (not massive) budget with a bit of reliability? There are some cheaper ones like Beko/Indesit but their reputation for durability....
Given your advice I’ve tried to use the info on these threads to do a bit of maths. Here goes...
New oven 11200watts
11200 divided by 230 =
48amp
Apppying diversity (from another post) at 30% (if that’s the correct figure?)
= 16.
So the supply from the B32 cooker mcb should be okay.... if I’ve done all of that right which seems like a long shot to say the least
Wonders never cease! As the saying goes; you learn something new every day. Or in my case I just learned about 20 new things.
Thanks for all the info&advice. I feel relieved that its not going to be such a big job phew