Wiring for 3 lights turned on by 1 switch

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by Dan Wright, Apr 16, 2018 at 12:53 PM.

  1. Dan Wright

    Dan Wright New Member

    I have attached a schematic diagram for 3 lights to be turned on at the same time by 1 switch. Is the wiring correct?
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Pollowick

    Pollowick Well-Known Member

    NO.

    Light 1 is fine - nice to see the sleeves! The neutrals and earths are fine too.

    The live feed from Lt1 to Lt2 should be taken from the Line connection on Lt1 and go to the same on Lt2, similarly from Lt2 to Lt3.


    In this case I might consider an Ashley/Rock/Hager J804 junction box which has 4 x 4 terminals. Wire to that, take feed to switch and back and there will still be three sets of terminals, E, N and SwL to then take to each rose.
     
  3. Dan Wright

    Dan Wright New Member

    Thanks Pollowick for the quick response and advice. I'll redraw the schematic with your suggestions and then re-post to see if correct...
     
  4. seneca

    seneca Screwfix Select

    There's nothing at all wrong with that.
     
  5. Pollowick

    Pollowick Well-Known Member

    Nothing wrong with te drawing, but it will not work as required. Lights 2 and 3 will be permanently ON.
     
  6. seneca

    seneca Screwfix Select

    Correct Pollowick, my apologies, I hadn't noticed he's put 2 and 3 on the permanent live instead of sw live! :D
     
  7. Dan Wright

    Dan Wright New Member

    Before I draw up a schematic including the junction box suggested, I've just updated the live connections to make sure I am on the right track. Is this now correct?
     

    Attached Files:

  8. seneca

    seneca Screwfix Select

    Yes that's better Dan.
     
  9. JP.

    JP. Screwfix Select

    Thats a nice diagram Dan. The only thing I would change would be the line designation - I would designate it SWL
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2018 at 6:43 PM
  10. Dan Wright

    Dan Wright New Member

    JP, so you think the Junction Box is not needed? I am not sure what you mean by changing the line designation.
     
  11. JP.

    JP. Screwfix Select

    Sorry Dan - what I mean is instead of calling it line I would call it SWitched Live. Dont know about jb's and stuff Dan, but that diagram is excellent m8.
     
  12. Pollowick

    Pollowick Well-Known Member

    As JP said - perfect. Just remember that if your switch has an earth you will need a fly lead between switch plate and back box.

    If you go for a lighting junction box, you would effectively move the connection layout into that and then have three roses with just E, N & SwL.
     
  13. Dan Wright

    Dan Wright New Member

    I've updated the schematic incorporating the junction box. Is my setup correct? I don't have enough slots for all of the earths and so have shown on the schematic 2 earths going into one slot - is that possible?

    What are the advantages of using a junction box as opposed to the original setup?
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Sparkielev

    Sparkielev Well-Known Member

    Better to keep your wiring in the ceiling rose but all depends on what lights you are fitting, have you thought about running your cables to the switch and from the switch to the the light
     
  15. Bazza

    Bazza Well-Known Member

    The drawing says downlights, so I guess he is having downlights. That means the rose will go. All that wiring will need to go to a suitable junction box.
     
  16. Sparkielev

    Sparkielev Well-Known Member

    yeah you right, but would still run supply to the switch and cable to the light from switch much neater and easier for fault finding I try and avoid putting junction boxes in if I can unless they are readily accessible
     
  17. Dan Wright

    Dan Wright New Member

    I want to keep the options open for the lights. I want the setup to enable me to try out pendant downlights to start, but allow me to be able to change them over for spotlights or any other lighting options. All of the wiring will be concealed within the stud wall and ceiling and so if junction boxes are used, they will not be accessible.

    I'm not sure what you mean by "have you thought about running your cables to the switch and from the switch to the the light". The schematic with the junction box is in effect running through the switch first and then to the lights isn't it? Or were you referring to the original schematic (without the junction box), where the supply runs from Light 1 to the switch and then on to Light 2 and Light 3? I can easily change that schematic to have the flow go through the switch first if I go with that setup.

    Should I use junction boxes or go with the original schematic?
     
  18. Bazza-spark

    Bazza-spark Well-Known Member

    Dan, just a minor point. In your joint box diagram you have shown 2 blue wires to the lights, one sleeved brown. If you are using standard T & E there will be one brown core and one blue so you will not need to sleeve a blue with brown sleeving.

    Kind regards
     
  19. Sparkielev

    Sparkielev Well-Known Member

    What i meant was run a supply (live, neutral) to the light switch then from the switch to the first light joining neutrals together in switch using a wago or connector block,
     
  20. Pollowick

    Pollowick Well-Known Member

    By using a junction box, which can be maintenance free, you can run T&E or flex to each light position and then connect up. It will give you the flexibility to choose, recessed lights, or ones needing a ceiling rose, or ones with their own ceiling fixing which has very limited space for connection. I recently saw some where teh ceiling fixing was around 40mm diameter and only just enough room for a single cable.
     

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