Hi all, Recently moved in to a new house and i'm looking to install Hive as I did in my last property. I have an S plan system with independent valves for CH and HW. Each valve has it's own programmer (which to make life easier have been embedded in tiles and grout, thanks previous owner!). CH has a wireless thermostat and HW is an on the wall jobby. Is it fairly standard to have two programmers like this? I'm thinking that I need to consolidate both HW and CH on to a single back plate to allow me to move to using a single dual channel Hive receiver. Is it as simple as that or is there anything else I should be considering?
I would just fit the hive receiver at the zone valve location. This would then eliminate the the programmers.
The hive would just need a LNE. Then terminal 4 on the hive would go in with the heating zone valve brown. Terminal 3 on the hive would then connect with the cylinder stat wire that will be on the wiring centre at the zone valves.
Do you mean putting it near the wiring centre rather than near the programmers? The valves and wiring centre are on the other side of the wall with the boiler under the panel.
It can probably be modified at the existing location. But you would need to remove the programmer, stat receiver and fused switch to confirm.
It is likely you have all the wires you need at the programmer, the basic design is, the programmer tells thermostat when it needs to work, the thermostat tells the motorised valve when it needs to work, and the motorised valve tells the boiler when it needs to work, since Hive combines the programmer and thermostat together it can go either where old programmer was or where the motorised valves are, both locations should have the wires required.
Thanks, presumably both the programmers I have at the moment are single channel. One for HW (on the left) and one for CH (on the right). I imagine i'd need to get the wires from both of the back plates and consolidate them in to a single back plate that the dual channel Hive receiver would then manage?
I will guess you can fit the single channel Hive to replace the programmer without doing anything, same back plate, but don't really need Hive for domestic hot water, the Honeywell base can also be replaced with a single channel Hive, but would need the back plate wiring, likely an easy job. But to combine both to a single Hive depends on how easy to blank one position and run wires to other position. With S plan unlikely the old thermostat is not switching 230 volt, so can fit Hive there, although I would still check it is 230 volt. What we are looking at is your ability, I would use a twin channel Hive, but as to what you can do, I don't know. The wire from B needs to go to 4 on Hive, and the wire in 4 on back plate needs to move to 3, and the red link L to 2 needs removing, so should be easy enough.
wiring to the thermostat receiver. My abilities are limited. If needs be I'll organise a heating engineer to sort. Perhaps combining both programmers into a dual channel Hive is beyond me but I wanted to understand the process
To me it is easy, but I am an electrician, the big question for me is can I get the black wire in B to the terminal 4 on the Hive. Seems likely it can be threaded through, but this is why I pointed out a single channel Hive to replace the Honeywell base is likely all you need. Water takes a long time to heat and cool, my house no thermostat so boiler turned on 3 times a week for 1/2 hour a time, and no real need for smart controls. Hive is only really needed for the central heating, so using a single channel Hive is one option.
Single channel Hive sounds like a reasonable idea however I've got a dual channel now, we do quite like the boost function too! So talking about the compatible backplate (HW). I'd need to move the wire from 4 to 3 I'd need the black wire in the honeywell (CH) moved to 4 on the HW backplate Red link between L and 2 on HW backplate removed Add Hive receiver to backplate profit??? What do I do with the other wires on the now redundant honeywell backplate?
Yes what you propose is correct. You can leave the other wires in place and refit the receiver or try disconnecting them from its source if you can locate it. The wires may just come from the fused switch so remove that and have a look.