Wobbly monobloc kitchen tap

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by jallpress, Apr 13, 2018.

  1. jallpress

    jallpress New Member

    Hi All,

    Our kitchen tap has been wobbly for a while and is now very moveable. We have the following tap:


    When I have looked underneath the sink at the fixings, it doesn't have the tightening nut that you usually use a box spanner to tighten and that nearly every online tutorial shows you is the answer to fixing a wobbly tap.

    What we have is a metal collar with 2 flat bottomed screws in it that have been tightened up against the underside of the worktop. These have come away and so seem to need retightening, but I was wondering if any of you have come across this type of fixing before, or whether the plumber who installed it a couple of years ago didn't do a proper job? I've asked the manufacturer if they have the fitting instructions available so I can take a look but they don't.

    And I don't want to buy a mounting plate kit in case this tap hasn't been designed for one.

    Many thanks
  2. It would help if you could post a photo of your undersink.

    If your sinktop is stainless steel, for example, so has a bit of flexibility to it, then there are these additional clamps that can be used which are screwed to the far more solid worktop. It just seems as tho' yours has come loose.

    If your sinktop is 'solid' like a 'cast' type, then these are not required as the tap can be fixed solidly to the 'top itself.

    So, if your sink is a 'wobbly' type, then the chances are you'll need an additional clamp regardless of which actual tap you go for.
  3. jallpress

    jallpress New Member

    Yes, I should've taken a photo last night. Will try and post one later when I get home. We have a 1.5 bowl undermount ceramic sink.
  4. Ceramic? In that case it should be sturdy enough to hold the tap firm by itself.

    Do you really want a new tap, or just to steady the one you have?
  5. jallpress

    jallpress New Member

    Our sink is very similar to this one:


    The space in the top right where the sink curves is where our tap is, so it isn't fixed to the sink at all. There is a hole there through which the flexi pipes are connected to the tap. This collar we have (which has come away) looks like it screws onto the bottom of the tap and is fixed to the underside of the worktop with the 2 screws. When I briefly tried to reattach it last night, it seems as if the worktop was too thick i.e. the collar couldn't fully tighten onto the base of the tap (bear in mind I was bent over double in a tiny undersink cupboard at 9pm so didn't give it my full attention).

    Are these mounting plates/C-washer kits that everyone else seems to have universal, or are some taps just not designed to use them? Obviously if there is no way for the bolt to fix to the tap then it won't work.

  6. Ah, I see.

    I'm not familiar with these, but you'd need to ensure than any new tap has the means of being fitted to a surface as thick as your top.

    What thickness are we talking about?

    Do you want to change your tap, or simply fix the one you have?
  7. jallpress

    jallpress New Member

    Keep the one we have.
  8. jallpress

    jallpress New Member

    So the undersink fixing we have is pretty much a combination of these. The threaded collar has 2 flat bottomed screws going through which are meant to grip the bottom of the worktop.

    Attached Files:

  9. In theory all that's needed is to tighten up that first large nut.

    Unless the thread has stripped...

    Can you post a photo? Keep it under 2MP in size for this site.
  10. HarDeBloodyHarHar

    HarDeBloodyHarHar Active Member

    So you only need the split one with the two screws. Wind it on by hand, then nip up the two screws.
  11. jallpress

    jallpress New Member

    Turns out the back nut is 35mm. Does anyone know if you can get a box spanner/basin wrench in this size? Can find plenty of 32mm ones but none for 35mm.
  12. Could you get one of these to tackle it at a steep angle? https://www.screwfix.com/p/slip-joint-pliers-9/5588v

    You can approach the nut virtually at right angles (ie only the end tips of the jaws catching two nut flats) with these and they'll still give you a decent amount of turning force. The more you can then flatten the angle the better the turning force, but you should find the nut doesn't actually need much at all.

    If arc movement is restricted, just turn the nut one flat at a time.

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