Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Deleted member 33931, Dec 29, 2015.
are they corded?
The traditional weight and cord system they use works very well indeed and very much looks the part. Their weights are basically solid square section steel with a nut welded to the top to attach the cord to. Once installed they are a pleasure to open and close.
Hi DW. I suspect so as they are likely to be pretty old.
I'm not sure if bro is bothered about what system is used, but he is concerned about their appearance - in fact he asked one company if they could fit single-pane glass...
Anyhoo, he'll be back soon I guess, so I can ask him all these things
Received a 10mm sample glazing unit. The outer pane is hand drawn glass, which mimics glass found in older house as it has ripples. The inner pane is standard 3mm glass. there is a choice of spacer, think the white one is better. Think i would pay the extra for this glass, would make sense to install a double glazed unit if having new windows made as more efficient.
Darn nice that hand drawn glass,look really good in a sash window, you be a fool not to install a double glazed units.
Just going from looks a d/g unit always looks chunky compared to a single.
That's what puts me off with some sash windows I have seen installed.
These minor things make all the difference. The 10mm unit I think is the best choice, as well as for those considering upgrading the glazing to keep existing frames.
Probably a dead thread. I renovated an old Edwardian House and sold it to Londoners who liked the style etc. I had restored and kept the original windows. Most in the road had been replaced with ugly plastic ones and the houses consequently ruined. I have since found out my buyers ended up getting plastic ones also! probably reduced the value of the house overnight.
Not quite dead - a wee pulse still beating...
That's sad, Guethary, and the exact opposite of what my bro is after. He's going back to the peeps who have given him quotes to say "And can you price that for single-glazed, please..."
My bro had a quote from another company who use "cross-laminated European redwood". They add that "it's
specially sourced from the core of the tree, making it incredibly stable and durable."
It's guaranteed for 30 years
Is this the same as 'engineered'?
When I contacted Byng, they said engineered redwood, i think its the same -just described differently.
I do think its better to go for the 10mm glazing unit though, order a free sample + you get a fee cotton bag!
My sample is actually machine draw, not hand drawn.
Drive down a Victorian street, and you see all the reflections from the glass rather than a modern flat sheet.
If the neighbor ever decides to replace her original windows, then I will be ready to grab them
Cool - I was hoping it was the same. Makes sense that it is.
I'll tell my bro he should check out both styles in person, before he dismisses the DG out of hand...
If the glass in the sashes falls below 800mm in height, then it will have to be toughened or laminated. P1 can be laimated, so in effect its 6.4mm (i.e 2 x 3mm + 0.4mm lamination).
Looking at the prices would be best, so many different options on the glazing. My sample is machine drawn on external and standard 3mm on the inside. Holding the sample on the side I can see the undulation wavery texture of the glass.
They said that hand draw was more expensive, and machine is what would be mostly likely to math the existing glass.
Just contacted another thin double glazed unit co, and they said as long as the inner pane is toughened then this would comply to regs.
Thinking logically the ground outside is likely to be lower so would fall below the 800mm threshold.
They will be sending out a sample - and a new bag
A lot of new sashes I have seen that have DG units have a wooden glazing bead to held hold the glass.
The company mentioned a product call silacryl sealant - acrylic based sealant. Although linseed putty would also work, but would require painting every 3-5 years dependent on location. I recon a 1mm butyl tape applied to the rebate shoulder would be the best bet.
The important thing is to make sure that the spacer is hidden from the 'sight line' in the rebate, although it will be minimal by having a thinner glazed unit with white spacer.. Most painters will cover the glass by about 2mm this will prevent moisture from entering and hopefully prevent the unit from failing.
Only the inside appearance is important - he's up 6 floors, so only the seagulls (or whatever other birds they have in t'Big Smoke) would care.
Do these double-glazed units sit inside the normal frame and central glazing beads that single-panes would do? Or are the panes 'full sized' with 'phony' glazing beads over it?
I know he wants it looking exactly like the original units from the inside.
Normally on a d/g sash it is one pane with stick on glazing bars.
If you go for DG units then it very likley that the glazing bars will have to be increaseed in size to deal with the extra weight of the glass.
Is your brothers a Georgian sash window?
Cheers Chips and Jit.
Yes, I guess Georgian - a single vertical bead in the middle of each sash.
If the way they fit DG units to these is to have a single DG unit with stick-on beads, then I know he'll tell them where to go.
Don't they make smaller DG units to suit each old pane? The panes are quite big - probably around a foot wide by two high.
Georgian has smaller glass units, like a grid, Yours is from the Victorian era.
The panes will be made individually, so wont require stick on beads.
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