Hello all I have a worktop with mason joint thats starting to fail next to a sink. Looks like it was just superficially sealed with colorfill on the top of the joint. I'd like to avoid replacing both worktops, so wondered if it is a realistic option to change the right hand female into a male joint. The photo shows the current scenario (ignore the paint pallet - thats just a watermark from the resizing software). Ideally I want to just replace the worktop on the left (with the sink) and make a new joint at 90 degrees to the current joint - so its further away from the sink - and seal it properly this time. My reasoning is that the curved part of the joint is 45 degrees - so to flip it to be female is possible - but I've got no knowledge in this area - hence looking for a more informed opinion. If it is possible, I'll still have to take both work tops out for the cut... which will be a pain for sure... I won't be doing the joint cuts - will find someone who knows what they're doing for that. Thanks for any advice.
It is possible, but to state the obvious it would have to be done absolutely precise to get a good finish, and you'd have to hope the joint line separates without tearing and damaging the face of the right hand top.
What you are proposing OP is perfectly feasible. As Jord86 said though, breaking the joint without damage to the current male joint is the tricky bit. Along with getting the worktop out from underneath the upstand.
Cheers for all the replies. I guess the ally jointing strip would be more achievable - but know the wife won't tolerate it... So does it matter what jig was used last time ?- or do they all give the same profile and ? I'm hoping the joint is dry so can be broken easily - I think it was only colorfill on top - but upstands look like they will be a pain no doubt
Aside from the obvious like untightening the dogbolts underneath, I would take the plinths off and drop the legs down by a couple of mm. Gently score through the silicone between tops and upstands. Changing the female to a male but keeping the overall length of the RHS top the same will mean the 45° section of the cut will need to be re-used with possibly very little to play with so go gently. I would go for a 10mm inset on the mitre as it would look better and would mean only the first 15mm of the current 45° needs to be kept intact when taking the current tops apart. Colorfil can get fairly brittle over time so some sharp hits with a hammer might break the joint nicely. Alternatively could multitool through the 45° cut (on the sink side though) and then cut the rest with less care. I've managed to replace full U shape tops before with the client keeping the tiling and although it was a pain in the botty it is often possible. Unika do a jig with 23/10mm offset. And due to the joints proximity to the sink I would use bushboard complete for sealing the joint.