has any 1 got any tips on getting the joints so you cant feel them when you pass your hand over it the miters are perfectwith the router and jig but would like to get them that bit better so you cant feel them i have seen them like that
i use biscuits but i still on occasions don't get it perfect ( although i do dry fit the joints to check the biscuits are in line) big all, i think i understand your answer but to my mind it only gets the horizontal fit right. can you explain to the innocent how to get the vertical component right
imagine the join say its a corner back edge 2 foot of baton on top and the same underneath tighten a clamp in the center placed on baton over the join 1 foot each side same at the front if the clamp i positioned over the joint it should line up the work surfaces but obviously you cant do this if you cant get 2 inches clear to get the clamp in look at the item about routers and work tops over the last 10 or so pages this sort of subject has had lots of coverage cos the bickies should line up haa haa big all
also look at the items on biscuit jointers for ideas another thought if you temporarily fix two batons across the joint underneath start one side screw on [if you like using lots of glue put a bit of paper between baton and worktop ] slide other half into position secure with screws you may have to raise the other end off the worktops to keep them level also make sure you batons have predrilled holes to allow them to pull tightly together big all
cheers for that will give that a go i can see that working once there bolted together by yousing 2"10s through a piloted batton at about 3" centers should pull it flush
One thing to watch is the sealant/glue you use. I tried the colour matched stuff (comes in a very small tube, one for each joint) (came with the kitchen I was fitting)and the stuff stuck on contact like glue, with no time to get things absolutely level. I would never use it again, best to use silicon, you have lots of time and can even take the joint appart if necessary.
well they can b a pig 2 get dead level,even with b/joints as u r underneath tightening that poxy 10m/m nut and client is saying r u done yet!!!! and those gloss finish tops the client sees in the showroom with no butt & scribe joint,they want it but after 6 months use they understand y i hate using or fitting them.
always check the ACTUAL thickness of both joints prior to clamping up... as most pre-made work tops can vary by as much as an 1/8th of an inch... due to moisture content!!!! which when you tighten up your bones underneath, screws up the top for being smooth and level each side of the joint, may only be 1/8th , but it may as well be a step... for the fact that it shows big time!!!!!!!
with regard to the c&g qualified you should also say 'about 3mm' so it doesnt confuse them Matt. Welcome back by the way.
Woodsmith you are right colorfill does go off very quickly, but i find if i use pleanty of silicone to seal the ends of the joint before i put on the colorfill it is much more workable.
heelllooo grouty what thickness is your baton/worktop!!!! if your batons 18mm and your work top is 40ish fine but any smaller or if you countersink i would be worried about 10+2s breaking out good luck any way big all