Worktops advice

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by dazzed, Mar 2, 2004.

  1. dazzed

    dazzed New Member

    Hi all

    I'm sorry if this has come up before looking for advice on the best sequence when installing worktops into a U shaped set up......looking directly ahead is the hob , to the right is the sink , and to the left is to be work space which butts up to a tall larder can anyone advise me on what type of joint is best suited to each joint........


  2. WOLF

    WOLF New Member

    it depends on if you wish to "hidden " joint the worktops or just butt them up and put in the corrisponding coloured cover cappings!!!!
  3. dazzed

    dazzed New Member

    Hi Wolf

    Sorry i didnt mention the joints are to be made using a worktop jig .......i dont have a problem using a router i was wondering if it would be better starting from a clockwise direction from the larder unit if so what would be my sequence of joints either male or female...


  4. bilco

    bilco New Member

    Idealy fit the base of the U first then the legs....This gives you the best chance to scribe thge ends of the legs to the middle section before you cut them to length.
    Use metal jointing strips if you are unable to cut a mason's mitre joint
  5. WOLF

    WOLF New Member

    bilco... you beat me to it!!!! sorry dazzed, just having a rant on the other channel!!!!!
  6. dazzed

    dazzed New Member

    Cheers lads.....
  7. Dewy

    Dewy New Member

    Ranting Wolf? You?
    I'l have to look round for it. lol
  8. ukwoody

    ukwoody New Member

    Forgive me guys, I'm not taking issue here, just trying to learn! I thought that you ideally started your worktops from the left thus working in a clockwise direction. Your joints (when done with a jig) would then be cut lengthways ideally running the same direction as the sides, so hiding them from view.

    Is this not the case? Have I done my last two wrong??? Help!
    Woody :)
  9. mj

    mj Guest

    The base of the U first. then the legs is the easiest(generally). Length of individual pieces may also determine how you cut the full length boards, to minimise waste.
    Most important is to keep sinks as far as possible from joints, this may mean you have to alter the joint orientation.
  10. Wattsy

    Wattsy New Member

    How would you go about having a hidden joint?I`ve got two worktops to fit together in an `L` shape.I was going to use the plastic covers but the guy would like a hidden one preferably.Don`t know how to achieve it though.Should I leave it for a proper chippie?
  11. ukwoody

    ukwoody New Member

    Watsy. No disrespect meant here at all, but yes! Unless you've spent a couple of hundred on the powerful router, £150 at least on the jig, and £25 per router bit, don't bother. To do the joints properly takes all of that! I've been a chippie for 20 years now ,but have only recently moved into kitchens. It's a whole new ballgame, and dead easy to cock up the joints unless you've got the right equiptment.
  12. kesh

    kesh New Member

    If your a quick learner with a sense of adventure, you could hire the gear to see how you get on! Expensive mistake if you mess it up though!
  13. ukwoody

    ukwoody New Member

    How can the word c*ck as in c*ckup be deleted???? Good greif it's worse than the Victorians!
  14. woodsmith

    woodsmith New Member

    Long time ago I used to cut these joints with a down cut blade in a jig-saw and it was possible to make a very good joint. Just make a template of the shape of the joint, mark the line with a pencil and cut very carefully. Worth a try as not many people will accept the connectors anymore.
  15. dazzed

    dazzed New Member

    Thanks for all your input guys.ive decided to go for the base of the u shape first as i think this will give me a more accurate size from my mitre joint to the tall larder unit incase its out of square..and making the joint as far away from the sink was a good point...another question i have is to you guys who fit kitchens regularly is the worktop jointing kit from screwfix cat any good at £15.95.or is there anything better out there...


  16. Wattsy

    Wattsy New Member

    Already dropped one *******.Don`t want to do another.Think I`ll take Woodys advice and leave it to a real carpenter.Should stick to plastering,far easier.Got talked into this job.Fool!!

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