Haha trick! Show you where you said it wouldn't work? Well, I kept mentioning it, you kept missing it and telling me I'm wrong cos you dunno what it is! You show me where I'm wrong? Destroyed, another handy b&q man bites the dust. Proved wrong, as always, by the masses of people who actually have proof that they know what they are talking about. Night and get yourself a job, waster.
And that numpty, what a prat, sucking each other off I bet with thier ****! REALLY. BOY???? Oh, so it's you is it? Boy? No time to translate your gooblyde ****, night
Haha trick! Show you where you said it wouldn't work? Well, I kept mentioning it, you kept missing it and telling me I'm wrong cos you dunno what it is! You show me where I'm wrong? Destroyed, another handy b&q man bites the dust. Proved wrong, as always, by the masses of people who actually have proof that they know what they are talking about. Night and get yourself a job, waster. Ant, this is the last time I will tell you. I did not say polymer wouldn't work. I did not miss that you mentioned polymer. I know what it is for. MY whole point was to(if you are able to read and understand basic words-so far you have shown that you can't).. say that UNPROTECTED JOINS IN THAT CHANNEL were wrong. Look back. Read the fkin post. Then shut up, because you are useless. Show me where I said it would work. I didn't. You can't. Mr. HandyAndy - really
Thanks guys...and...calm down. I'll take on-board all advice. My Triton is bottom entry pipe, rear entry cable. Any help??
Don't assume it would be just because that's the sort of thing you'd do - not all of us are as incompetent as you.
PS - don't IP ratings for equipment state how well they are protected against ingress, not how they are designed inside to cope with water getting in? Has anybody apart from Handshandy ever seen a shower where it's designed to have water run inside it and avoid electrical problems by having a drip loop in the supply cable?
Has anybody apart from Handshandy ever seen a shower where it's designed to have water run inside it and avoid electrical problems by having a drip loop in the supply cable? nope fitted one today and the cable coming in the back was no where near where water would be able to get. Also plenty of room to extend the cable 4" or so.
See it all the time ban cable running on the outside wall down in a drilled hole at the top of the shower. Personally myself I would bring the cable from behind so it’s in a water tight seal environment. You have side entry or bottom entry for pipes only not cables, so you have to drill through the top to run the cable down. Don’t you Handy? MRWONG---REALLY Signing out
1. NO. You don't have to drill the unit at all. Entry decision is yours. There are caps that fill the holes that are already there. You remove a cap to use that entry. 2. Bas, you say 'let the bastrards fry' when referring to those that don't know and follow the regs. And don't argue it, you said it. 3. Bas, you suggested concealing outside cables in stone wall or behind trellis. You did not say what type of cable. And don't try to argue it. You said it. Mr. HandyAndy - really
You did not say what type of cable. When I read that... I took it, that it would of been the suitable cable for the suitation.
he never gives up does he This (in the link) is a Triton Seville shower unit. http://www.showerdoc.co.uk/shower-spares/triton/seville.html The part that the supply cable terminals are on is midway between the back and the front of the unit. The cable entry hole is at the back of the unit. The cable enters the hole, goes down behind the terminal panel, bends at the bottom, and up to the terminals. The top entry hole is not sealed, nor is it designed to be sealed, nor is it necessary to seal it, as the onlt thing in that cahannel is fully sheathed cable. You will see that if water enters this channel, it may run down the cable and anywhere it likes at the bottom. Now. I say, you CANNOT put an unprotected join ANYWHERE on the cable, as it would have to be in the channel behind the terminals where water is allowed to enter and exit. If you think you can now STILL say I'm wrong, you are not only mistaken, but completely inapt at your profession(alleged profession). No need to apologise, just take it on the chin, and keep learning. :^O:^O:^O:^O:^O:^O An' another one gone, an' another one gone..... Mr. HandyAndy - really
I haven't bothered reading all this c r a p , but today i connected up a Gainsborough shower, bought in a large shed. What rubbish. It had no back, just a moulded plastic case round the heat exchanger with all the electrical bits clipped on. No seal on the lid either. Told the owner to silicon round the unit except 25mm at the bottom. I noted this on the cert and left with Rcd switched off.
Mr. Handyandy Posts: 6,485 Registered: Jul 4, 2004 Re: Yet another shower question??? Posted: Feb 5, 2007 8:42 PM Reply The enclosure is rated at IP whatever... and has lots of wires and connectors in in already, so I can't see that 3 more properly made connections will make any diference Unless the connections are made where water is allowed to pass through. Example: Cable comes in at top, follows a channel down inside then bends back up to the terminals in a separate channel. Water is allowed down the first channel and can drip away at bottom. So that is where a join may be needed, but not a good idea. Mr. HandyAndy - really Yes Handy would have to drill through the top to run a cable down inside pass the heat box & up to the terminals. This is an illegal practise but not if he does it. It's called the Handyway. MRWONG--REALLY
FROM ANT1981 Then join with a polymer heat shrink which is water proof! Any chance u can get me a link to this polymer heatshrink stuff, all i can find is for large cables for high and mid voltage applications. Then theres some stuff called silicone repair tape which can b used for plumbing and allsorts. Ta Im sure u wont meen the usual heatshrink cos that dont seem watertight to me.