Zanussi dishwasher constantly filling - ZDT24004FA

Do you have a soldering iron?

If so, try getting a length of copper wire from 2.5 T&E and file one end to a point. Then wrap the wire round te soldering iron tip leaving the pointed end pointing away - then use that as the tip to melt the solder. Try it on a scrap board elsewhere until you are confident - it may need to be the main conductor or maybe the 1.5mm earth, try it and see.
 
Changed the triac and......exactly the same. Assuming that the Triac is therefore being triggered by something else on the board; this is now beyond my electronics knowledge. Either buy a new board for £136 and hope it is that, call in a expert or (I find this option tempting though it goes against the grain) chuck it out.
 
might be worth deliberately activating the flood protection - if the board is still triggering the inlet valve then its got to be a logic fault... or possibly a short in the wiring - maybe worth a check too?
 
jonathanc said:
might be worth deliberately activating the flood protection - if the board is still triggering the inlet valve then its got to be a logic fault... or possibly a short in the wiring - maybe worth a check too?
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Good thinking. I'll have a go later, the flood protection triggering is what started the whole thing, but that could have been just a symptom of the continuous fill rather than the other way round. I disconnected every connector to the board apart from the one connected to the valve (and the 240v supply obviously) and still the bloody thing activated. It did cross my mind logic corruption,

To be honest washing up as we go is not much more difficult than loading and unloading the dishwasher, I have a sneaky feeling it might be easier but daren't express that opinion! Not in a hurry so will continue to fiddle.
 
No go I am afraid.

I went so far as to completely remove the board from all connections to the dishwasher other than its 240v supply. Still 240v on the board output pins to the supply valve, in other words the valve is open and supplying water no matter what else fails on the dishwasher, which can't be the default position.

I have now exhausted my electronic skils so looks like either a new board at £136 or a fixed price repair at £146. Just have a niggling concern that it may not be the board but surely everything points to that.
 
What is the policy for a Fixed Price repair where it cannot be repaired?

Miele offer a fixed price repair - if they cannot repair it then you get a credit against a new order and their prices are no different to John Lewis, which when we had a failure earlier this year it was an easy choice.
 
FlyByNight said:
What is the policy for a Fixed Price repair where it cannot be repaired?

Miele offer a fixed price repair - if they cannot repair it then you get a credit against a new order and their prices are no different to John Lewis, which when we had a failure earlier this year it was an easy choice.
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Same with Zanussi. Just wondering what would happen if the engineer they sent out said it couldn't be repaired and didn't bother to check or replace the board. Since the fixed price repair is £145 and the board is £136 it makes one wonder how the engineer, who will be subbed, would make anything in the event it is the board. He would also be unlikely to carry the board, I would have thought, so a return visit would also be necessary to fit it. The temptation would be to say it is not repairable, or am I being cynical?

It's only 18 months old.

£75 credit if not repairable which is not particularly generous given the £145 I would have already paid for the callout.

Or I could just take a chance and order the board myself.
 
I had a Siemens dishwasher fail - lightning strike and diagnostics said main board. The technician arrived with the board - whether carried or not, or they have potential spares shipped to them, I don't know, but that was efficient.

The cost of the board will be nearer £80 maybe, and there could be a lot of calls where the spares are just £10-£20.
 
FlyByNight said:
I had a Siemens dishwasher fail - lightning strike and diagnostics said main board. The technician arrived with the board - whether carried or not, or they have potential spares shipped to them, I don't know, but that was efficient.

The cost of the board will be nearer £80 maybe, and there could be a lot of calls where the spares are just £10-£20.
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Yes, that's what I was thinking that many of the calls may be simple and perhaps not require any parts. Think I'll go for the fixed price repair.
 
There will be a transistor, probably, triggering the gate of the triac. Maybe thats shorted? But without a diagram its not easy especially from a photograph to see whats going on.
 
techie said:
There will be a transistor, probably, triggering the gate of the triac. Maybe thats shorted? But without a diagram its not easy especially from a photograph to see whats going on.
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I remember when every piece of electronic equipment came with it's own circuit diagram (that dates me!), those were the days. Expensive now to get service data.
 
My hapence worth - the triac is good as you have replaced it with no result. Check the gate voltage - typically between 0.7 to 1.5v which is keeping the gate high and allowing conduction. If there is transistor driving it, check it’s base voltage so see if it’s being driven on by some microcontroller chip. However most chips can drive a triac directly and if this is the case, diagnosis is tricky. I doubt if you can get a new chip or worse having to program it.
 
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Muzungu said:
I remember when every piece of electronic equipment came with it's own circuit diagram (that dates me!), those were the days. Expensive now to get service data.
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A few did but most charged for it. Worse, it was jealously guarded and supplied only to “trade”. last time I saw one around in the box with the TV was an LG some ten years ago. Even in the “trade” component level repairs or diagnosis is rare, most being board swap merchants.
 
Miele washing machines and tumble driers are supplied with them. Normally nicely folded and actually inside the machine.
 
quasar9 said:
My hapence worth - the triac is good as you have replaced it with no result. Check the gate voltage - typically between 0.7 to 1.5v which is keeping the gate high and allowing conduction. If there is transistor driving it, check it’s base voltage so see if it’s being driven on by some microcontroller chip. However most chips can drive a triac directly and if this is the case, diagnosis is tricky. I doubt if you can get a new chip or worse having to program it.
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I looked at the data sheet for this triac and yes, as you say, it can be driven directly by the logic. I think I have gone as far as I can given my skills so time for a board swap, whether on a fixed price repair from Zanussi, which is a guaranteed fix, or by myself.

With my luck I will swap out the board and find it still does the same thing; at least with the fixed price repair, which is only £10 more than the board, I get this fixed whatever it is, allegedly!
 
Muzungu said:
I looked at the data sheet for this triac and yes, as you say, it can be driven directly by the logic. I think I have gone as far as I can given my skills so time for a board swap, whether on a fixed price repair from Zanussi, which is a guaranteed fix, or by myself.

With my luck I will swap out the board and find it still does the same thing; at least with the fixed price repair, which is only £10 more than the board, I get this fixed whatever it is, allegedly!
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And presumably a repair warranty. If it goes bang again next week he didn't find the root cause.
 
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