These are for 240V, not 12V, and ranging from 3A to 13A. My first experimentation with crimp terminals was a disaster. I picked up what I now believe to be cheap Chinese insulated terminals that were for 12V. In general, the gauge for the terminals was way too big and when crimped it was touch and go as to whether the cable was actually gripped. Secondly, they where really flimsy and bent as soon as you looked at them. So, my question is, what and where do I need to buy them? I can also use non-insulated, since I can happily insulate them myself.
What type of crimper are you using because no matter what connectors you use if your tool is poor so will the crimps be.
Upto 6mm Red yellow and blue already insulated https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CTBUTTslashB.html
Agreed. I believe that most of the available ones are the wrong size for mains cables, being auto cable size. I think that perhaps I need to size them correctly, which means I need uninsulated. I sent one like that back. Problem is that most of the cables I am working with are 1mm or less.
You need to buy good quality branded crimps and a crimper from a manufacturer such as Klauke, which will not be cheap. https://www.heamar.co.uk/klauke-k-507-crimping-tool-with-interchangeable-dies.html
Remember, the Grenfell Tower fire has been blamed on a inadequate crimp. https://news.sky.com/story/grenfell...dge-freezer-started-fire-says-expert-11565956
Wow, I didn’t know that . I use a cheap crimp tool from amazon, for bootlace terminals but the crimps seem good enough imo.
It says in the Sky article: “Three inches of damaged wire discovered in one of the flat's bedrooms 27 days after the tragedy probably came from the compressor relay compartment, the inquiry heard.”. I presume the investigation team found the piece of wire and then went looking for where it came from.
This one looks ok, maybe the one I linked to earlier was a bit rubbish. https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/4832515-ratchet-crimp-tool
Bootlace ferrules are totally different. You have a terminal screw or cage clamps the ferrule after being crimped, unlike the inline red, blue and yellow or the spade terminals that push on.
I have a £300 10-120 mm hex hand crimping tool in the back of my van and several other smaller tools as well, cheap crimping tools are rarely worth the money paid for them.
My local independent electrical wholesaler have a big crimping tool they lend out free of charge to trusted electricians.
I've got this one but I wouldn't ever use it for 10mm. https://www.toolstation.com/hydraulic-hand-held-crimper/p36116
Going back to that Sky article: "I found voids in all 80 cross-sections indicating the crimp was not nice and tight," said Dr Glover, a principal engineer at Failure Electrical, a firm which investigates electrical failures.“ In theory it is possible to crimp the cable so tightly there are not any voids, generally referred to as being “gas tight”, but it’s not generally possible with crimps like those used when making fridges, because the thin wall crimps spring slightly open when the tool is removed. https://knowledge.knipex.com/en/is-gas-tightness-possible-with-ferrules
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