Hi there, Is there any such thing as 12mm coated MDF? I've painted myself into a corner with the kitchen. The last base units in the row nudge up to the door architrave and stop the unit's door opening. Schoolboy error as I failed to account for replaster and skim when measuring up. The only leeway I have is a panel between the freezer and the unit - currently 18mm coated MDF and wondered if i could swap this out for a thinner one, buying the 5mm I need. I don't want to remove the panel since I need to butt the plinth up to it and it also provides a barrier from freezer to carcase. Unable to batten at this point as freezer ventilation spans the 600mm gap and slightly worried a thinner panel might warp/ under worktop. Any suggestions regarding material, or lateral thinking regarding approach? Much obliged! Pics as evidence of stupid gene.
Maybe remove the architrave and rip down or replace with a narrower moulding? What is happening about a worktop?
It depends on the worktop, but could you move them forward about 15mm (away from wall). If it's a built in freezer, you would need to full width to allow the door on the freezer to close properly. If It's a stand alone freezer, it this a panel that is not part of the end units? if so you could remove it and figure out how to butt the plinth neatly as that may be a simper solution
Even if you were to fit a thinner panel it looks as though the unit door would still hit the architrave. Ideally you want to space the units away from the wall to clear, but the fronts probably wouldn’t line up. I agree with Teabreak - remove the architrave under the worktop and dress the gap/make good with a thin moulding, or thin strip of white plastic.
You can remove the panel completely. Also the one on the other side of the freezer if it is not required. Believe me this is a common error with that solution. People overlook that the door opens sideways. Benchmark or Wickes? You could cut the door and unit down by 1.5 cm on the hinge side for the perfect solution. Edge with white gloss tape, re-drill 35mm hinge holes using a router or pillar drill.
Good info everyone. Many thanks. I've taken on board your advice and decided to do a kind of mashup of all your suggestions I've taken out the MDF and put a piece of 3mm ply between freezer and units. There's now just enough room to open the unit door without snagging. I'll join the units together, fix to wall and butt plinth up to ply then remove ply. This leaves a 3mm gap which looks ok on dry run. I was concerned about carcase next to freezer but mfr instructions dont warn about condensation issues so looks like a goer. I'll scribe worktop part way over architrave (or cutout architrave) to keep overhang consistent. Kitchen is Ultima and is as good as any (manufactured) i've seen. Cheers again chaps - always helps to get others point of view!
Isn't there a concealed hinge that throws the door sideways on opening before turning out? Mr. HandyAndy - Really
Handy: that would be a nice thing to have...I'm going to trawl for one of these. At present, door opens but not quite 90 degrees. Good enough but still a compromise so this kind of hinge would be great. Jitender: I already used that trick in the wall cabinet run Besides, these carcasses with curved door and plinth are the most expensive unit in the kitchen...eek.
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