Any tips on insulating the inside of an external wall?

Various ways you could go about this.

2x4 battens and infill with celotex is OK, the wood will act as a thermal bridge a bit but you can get quite deep insulation (90/95mm), then plasterboard over. Or rather than plasterboard, add PL4000 so more insulation and plasterboard in one.

The easiest way would be to use 65mm +12.5 plasterboard thick PL4000, dot and dab fix, job done. A lot more expensive though, and only 65mm max insulation but a lot less hassle to put up.

 

I agree with the dripping tap.

I am going to insulate a big external wall and will be using PL4000 50MM with 12.5 plasterboard, dot and dab and mechanical fixing too.

My last house i built a frame and infilled it with rockwool, then Vap barrier and then plasterboard. It was hard work and not cheap. I did all myself except for the skimming. I used 50mm rockwool. Made a big difference to the room as it was an external wall.

Some pics of that for you:

 

Wheres ya pillow gone from the top of the step ladder?

Have you left it in the wall!!!!

 

I was hungry so i eat it.

I had to use the pillow for my poor knees as i was also fitting 2 new rads myself on that wall.

 

I did our upstairs backroom in the same way as koolpc has shown in the pics above. He's right about the hard work, but it did make a difference to the room temperature.
But if I was doing it now, I would definitely opt for the cellotex/kingspan method.
Out of interest koolpc , what type of screws are used on these boards. We have circa 1900 brick walls that are a nightmare to drill into.

 

http://www.insulationgiant.co.uk/Ancon-Staifix-Insofast-Insulation-Plasterboard-Nails-145mm/p/970329

 

http://www.ancon.co.uk/products/wal...-staifix-range/insulated-plasterboard-fixings

 

Thanks koolpc. I see it says 5mm pilot holes for bricks. These type of fixings don't seem to need wall plugs, but TBH, I learnt diy from my dad and he always insists on wall plugs for any type/size of screw.

 

@koolpc nice bit of frame work mate...
Did you measure the size and make the frame on the floor and offer up, or did you get the outside square in and then make the verticals and horizontals in afterwards? Reason I ask is sometimes not enough height in the room to lift the frame up. Also what fixings did you use to hold it to the exterior wall pal?

 

These screws are meant to be used with no plugs. I have used bolts etc into concrete with no plugs. Super duper strong!

 

I didn't do the frame on the floor. And, to be honest, i didn't bother about getting the outside square as the walls were pretty good. I was more concerned about putting the battens up where each plasterboard edge rested. They were very tall walls, 3mtr! I did use ordinary wall plugs and screws to fix the battens. If i were doing it again i would use screws that didn't need plugs but this time i am going for Insulated Plasterboard.

Thanks

 

Is it better to lift up the row of laminate flooring nearest the wall before i put the new insulated PBs up? Or just leave then there?

Where would you recommend to buy the Celotex 50mm Insulated PB's from and how many bags of adhesive for 5 boards guys as my maths is not goo, oh, and 'what' adhesive, brand etc is the best? Ta

 

Is the laminate glued? If not and you can re-lay it up to the new stud wall then I'd do that. Probably won't do any harm if its left though.

I got my Quinn Therm from https://www.condell-ltd.com/ a bit far from you but they may deliver, were the best prices by a long way. Gives you an idea on price anyways, their 60+12.5mm PL4000 is £49/sheet.

No idea on adhesive sorry.

 

Ere we go again...

 

Stick to whats best for you. Batten method works. Whichever method you employ will work. Some like DA go on and on about stats etc when in real life you wont notice or see any difference between the 2.

 

Kools is right, choose the method that you would prefer. Both me and Kools are batten out fans, but then you have the likes of Dev and BMC, who are dot and dab fans

Most certainly not, i prefer battening as it is less likely to go **** up, as dot and dab can very easily go without prior experience or knowledge.

One could argue that dot and dab is more of a bodge, but i wont go into that....

 

Dot n dab should always be supplemented by mechanical fixing but I would see two disadvantages with this method:
- its generally more expensive than batten, PL4000 is about 3 times the price of standard PIR insulation
- its tricky getting everything level.

That said, you'll get some cold bridging with battens although it won't make much difference.

I conclusion I would say insulated plasterboard gives the best result IF its properly applied but is more expensive and time consuming.

See...I'm not married to an ideology, just weigh up the evidence