Can I temporarily insulate a conservatory roof?

Hmm, just good quality wood screws with a good corrosion-resistant coating.

I wonder if these make sense; http://www.screwfix.com/p/timbadeck...-decking-screws-4-5-x-65mm-pack-of-500/34251#

Tho' you won't need 500!

3mm pilot hole should be good, and 4 or 4.5mm in the timber. (Always do a test, tho')

Now, are you sure you know where in the ali you are going to place the screws? Wanna put on a close-up photo of the top part of your frame?

 

Yes that's true but you can never have enough screws

I have encountered a problem with the placing of the light already on the house side so may need to place the timber slightly higher than intended, I'll upload some photos and see what you think

 

Oh for heaven's sakes...

Ok, if you fit this ceiling where I was suggesting before - along that upper horizontal ali rail above the main window panes, your connie is going to be pretty darned claustrophobic. From one of your photos, that top rail is pretty much level with the top of the door in the brick wall? So your ceiling will also be at that level - jeepers.

Unless there's a step down into your connie when you come through that door in the brick wall?

And one of your upper glazing units is an opener?

I really don't want to say ' back to the drawing board...'

 

A quick about-turn...

I reckon you're gonna have to fix them wallplates up along the top ali rail, the sloping one. As high as it can go, perhaps an inch from the top - will the screws catch the top ali frame in a 'good' place?

 

The door is higher than a standard door, it was former patio doors by the look of it, I'm 5' 7 and don't reach the top of the door frame.

Hopefully so... I put up blinds along the lower Ali rail and only had problems when screwing too close to the glass on 1 occasion which was easily rectified...

Argh I hate the uncertainty wish id noticed that light position before!

 

I meant to ask too would those screws you suggested be ok for the brick work - and do I need wall plugs for the brick work (I assume I do but again clueless as to what sort!)

 

Also whilst this uncertainty sets in I've started to wonder whether it will be stronger and safer to have joists coming down from the wall plate glued and screwed into the frame all the way down to the floor just to give that extra support too? Just on the 2 longest sides

 

Your call - if you fit the ceiling at the 'lower' horizontal level, will it 'feel' low? Will it look wrong? I simply cannot tell from your photos, so it has to be your call.

The screws must go into the 'right' place in whatever ali frame you are screwing in to; where there is a clear void behind, and which is not open to the glazing units above.

If you fix at both ends and every 400mm, it won't come down. But do also use StixAll or a very similar product as this will prevent future movement, and it's movement wot wrecks things.

These screw types are fine for the wall, but won't be long enough - you'd really want to go in at least 1.5" into a wall, and yes, plugs are needed. Any wood screw will do, so buy SF's gold or silver type. Chose plugs to suit - probably 'red' ones, and they will determine the screw thickness too. (Eg: red plugs and size 10 screws.) I hope you have a decent masonry drill?

If you can build a ceiling, you can shift a wall-mounted light fitting. You can shift a light fitting without killing yourself, can't you?

 

No it will look ok - my kitchen ceiling is only 7 inches higher than what this new roof in my conservatory will be so it won't be too bad I don't think.

I have drill bits for concrete with my drill. Haha yes I will have to move it! I'm sure I can manage it - but I won't speak too soon!

Thanks again DA I will let you know how I've got on today later

 

Here is how I've done so far... Still a way to go but pleased so far

 

Come to a halt as all the wood is badly bowed... Returning to Wickes and will get some from somewhere else, can't believe how bad it is!

 

That all looks impressive.

Slightly unconventional jointing method - using brackets - but actually probably a really good choice.

Since you are building full side frames, the actual connie walls won't be taking the new ceiling weight, so that's a really good move too. Mind you, the other side will still rely on screwing a wallplate through, won't it?

Good stuff

 

I'm loving the Pink tools.

 

I'd wondered who I'd loaned them to.

 

Yes that's true - thinking about maybe putting some in each corner to help support it further though

 

That is a good idea...

Bear in mind that wood is very strong in compression, so any vertical studs on the other - window - side could be simple 2x1's.

 

That could work! Thank you!

 

Latest update, wanted to have it finished with all their toys in there before they go back to school on Thursday but won't happen, coming along nicely now though! My main complaint is how dark it is now - especially in my kitchen leading from the conservatory. can't have it all though!

 

More done again today