Return and flow pipe work from combi boiler is 22mm. Pipe originally came upto airing cupboard (old Y plan system) then pipe work was reduced to 15mm supplying all radiators. Some pipe work modifications made to keep 22mm supply. 2 x new radiators added. Hair felt wrapped around pipework where cross over wooden joists.
Tsk, typical DIYer - one careful photo of one beautifully swept bend. I bet the rest is a mess... Very nice, Jit . Are ye no gonna lag the rest of the pipes? Or do you like warm floors?
I bought a pressure testing pump last year. Only had one leak on one joint Difficult to solder, then had to cut out the elbow, some dirt had gone into the joint. Seems to be more efficient now as 22mm went to airing cupboard, then reduced to 15mm to supply all radiators in house. Now kept it in 22 mm as far as possible.
Very neat, lag the pipes while you have the chance. I have always prefer 22mm & keeping the 15mm short as possible.
I'll get my sister to do it. She's good at knitting. Will struggle to get polystyrene insulation on, but the sleeved hair felt will work by slitting and re-knitting it.
Do you think it would be beneficial to tap into flow and return for BEDROOM 2 from the 22mm pipework, running along the radiator? When I am doing the loft conversion I plan on bringing the 22mm straight up into the cupboard. At the moment I am thinking can a valve be put in, if loft wanted to be controlled separately? The boiler is combi.
I may be changing the radiator in BED2, so have this setup: The old boiler used to be site in the kitchen below BED2 on the left hand corner.
There is going to be 2-3 radiators in the loft. I am planning on having the system on 2 setting, so the LOFT and main house can be controlled separately. does anyone know how to do this?
Zoning the central heating by using motorised valves, your spliting the system into seperate zones, each can be controlled by a room stat. Can't find a good link to explain better
Thanks, I'll have look at this. Think it would be best to zone it, so loft can be controlled separate. I will go with the last drawing, as less pipework involves = more efficient system. need to replace the rad anyway. Drawing it out like this makes sense.
A 2-port valve fitted into the flow. It can then be controlled the way you want - with a simple on/orf switch if that's all that's needed, or a timer if that's all that's needed (both of these will obviously need the boiler to be already running...) or a Prog Stat which could be fitted in one of the main upstairs rooms. For the latter, the zone valve will send a signal to the boiler to turn it on when required, regardless of whether it's already on or not. And for all the options, the power supply should (must) come from the same supply as the rest of the CH system. So, plan where you can fit a zone valve, and decide on where your timer/prog stat is gonna go, and run cables for both.
I've purchased a NEST thermostat, will install this instead. I'm not going to bother with zoning the system, as its a small house. Where the pipes feed into the airing cupboard will fit isolation valves, and drain points in there.