Changing old pipework

A lot of the old pipe work which is 1/2" is ok with 15mm, but 3/4" is slightly smaller, so you need an adaptor, also when you start moving old radiators,pipes, you start dislodging crud, & this can damage/block the pipe work, or a new boiler by blocking heat exchanger,etc.

Some times ripping the lot out is the best option, as you can remove dead legs, even reroute pipes so they take a more direct route,etc.

 

What KIAB says...in my experience it is 10x more difficult and time consuming having to deal with existing/old/different parts than starting from scratch. My first house had 1/2" and 3/4" pipe (as well some bigger 28mm [1" ?] like stuff) and it was a right bu**er to deal with.

 

And copper is fetching good scrap prices.

 

As above replace in metric copper if you have the time and budget, but please don't be temped to go with the Lego option and use plastic

 

Hate plastic pipe, I'm old school, has to be good old fashion copper pipe & soldered joints.

And insulate the CH & the HW pipes saves heat loss, pointless heating voids,also isolates any noises, & you can run CH lower setting on boiler.

 

It is, but it may take quite some practice, patience and time. I did all the CH pipe work in my previous 2 houses with no knowledge at the beginning, but it took me ages with the soldering and pipe bending and its still not very pretty. But it is doable.

 

Yes.

Seen many DIY enthusiasts/self builders do the plumbing, running pipes for CH & H&C plumbing back to boiler location & leaving them for plumber to connect up to boiler & fit boiler, gas supply.etc.

 

I did have one plumbing job in my previous house when doing the kitchen, needed lots of 15mm pipe for gas, hot and cold probably around 30m or so plus plumbing some 22mm in the bathroom. Hired a nearly retired chap for a day, and we did it all with me preparing and putting the clips in, and him following with copper. It was a very cost/time efficient way of getting the job done.

 

A lot of the common problems peeps have with plumbing is too much flux, dirty pipes & fittings, overheating fittings & too much solder.

If you going to be replumbing a whole house, then treat yourself to a decent Mapp torch & use Mapp gas, it's quicker to solder than using propane.

 

Wonder if the Rothernberger MAPP gas bottle will fit/can be used with my Rothernberger head, which I think has a "EU coupling 7/16" coupling??

Probably a super fire 2 or similar.

 

Probably, Yes?

 

Got Bernzomatic TS4000, GoSystem Quick Pro Auto Swirl Torch & a Monument MAPP torches here.
But,tend to use my battered Go sytem torch mostly, nice thing with mapp torch you can also use the cheaper propane cartridges for other non plumbing jobs.

Always considered Rothenberger over hyped.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/bernzomatic-propane-mapp-gas-trigger-start-brazing-torch/71976?kpid=71976

http://gasproducts.co.uk/gosystem-q...w-torch.html?gclid=CPKj1sqog9ICFam87QodWBQAHw

http://www.go-system.co.uk/diy-range.html

 

I have been using a Super-Fire Two for the last few years. Very nice torch, regulated, piezo start and it works with MAAP & Propane (I have used propane in it multiple times now, although MAAP is better).
I find Powerflow flux allows the solder to run easier, it's what I prefer. La-Co is close behind.
Kiab, Rothenburger is over-hyped, but they make some good kit and it lasts.

Mike,

My advice would be:
- Start in the less obvious areas, or buy some pipe and fittings to practice on. The first few joints will be rough, but you'll learn quickly. You'll see the difference that the torch heat makes too.
- Don't coat the pipe in flux, just a thin 'film' around the pipe and fitting, with no large dollops. Any flux left on the outside of the pipe must be wiped off, as it can erode the copper. (The green coating on pipes is old flux)
- When soldering pipe with a fitting containing a washer, such as a stopcock, remove it or the washer. The heat will cause the rubber to harden and crack, which will make the valve useless.
- Have some wire wool handy, It's my preferred way of cleaning pipes and fittings.
- Watch some Youtube videos. Plumberparts and Tom Plum are the two to check out. You'll get helpful tips and a better understanding.

And some general pointers:
- Whatever torch you buy, get a 'regulated' one. This means when you turn the torch upside down, you won't have a massive flame 'shoot' out.
- Get a heat mat. You'll need one when you do joints against a wall or in between joists. (it'll stop them catching fire, after all, that's not really the desired result..)
- Have a bucket/tub of water nearby. If you do burn or light anything, which could happen, you won't be running around panicking.
- I personally find end feed easier too use than Yorkshire fittings. I can get just the right amount of solder, and not have any dribbles.

Not soldering related, but still relevant:
- Do not bend pipes over your knee or anything else. This will crush the pipe and impact the flow. A pipe bending spring or a set of pipe benders (with inserts) will maintain the pipes ID.
- Do add valves everywhere you see fit. It helps massively when working on the pipework. I can isolate all three floors of rads here and drain them seperatly, so the system can still operate if I am working on one part.
- Do label everything. A Sharpie is the first tool you should buy, and write on the pipes as to what they do, this will help anyone in the future and anyone who works on the plumbing other than you.
- Contrary to what people think, 1/2" will fit 15mm fittings. It's the ID that changed more, so you can still fit 15mm fittings on with a bit of force. A few light hammer taps will seat it nicely.
- Insulate everything. It costs pennies to do, but will save money over the years and reduce the chance of freezing.

If it were me, I'd rip everything out (Straight to the scrap yard!) and start over. It is expensive to do, but you can have everything exactly as you want it and you can offset some of the cost with the scrap money.

 

I was using Powerflow but recently changed to La-Co! I think another important lesson is to make sure all surfaces are clean before applying flux - both inside (fittings) and outside the pipe, where the solder will need to adhere to. I think my previous issues with solder not applying properly (and hence changing flux) is due to not cleaning the inside surfaces such as fittings before applying. Flux will only clean so much.

I also use wire wool for cleaning

 

Their pipe freezers are total carp, especially the Plumb Freeze Eco model.