Chipboard

you will find when you come to actually lay the flooring that the flooring will go writing side down naturally, because you will start off with the "female" sides to the first corner.

no need for glue, just screw down with 5x45mm screws after predrilling and countersinking.

at each joint, mark the joist centre with a pencil line on the chipboard but do not screw down until after the adjoining board has been laid in position (this makes it easier to fit the boards if the tops of the joists are not all in the same plane)

 

female "<u>edges</u>" I should have said (ie grooved edges) ...

 

You really should glue as well as screw (or use ring shank nails). PU glue is the best. For the ultimate you should also gripfill the boards to the joist - this helps to stop squeaks.

Writing side is down - you should know this as some of the writing says "this side down"!!

 

belt and braces man, eh hallbeck ?

personally, I think that if the boards are all nice and tight, and if they are well <u>screwed</u> down through predrilled clearing holes, then there is zero chance of squeaks developing, whether you glue or not.

I hate ringshank nails in chipboard flooring btw ...

 

Is it not a reg that they are glued? I think NHBC require glueing together as well as glueing down - not sure though now i am thinking about it!

Paslode nails do a top job of nailing them down

 

all edges must be glue as it does state this on some boards but it must be done on all. PVA is ok for this. I glue down on to the joists with pur glue then 63mm ringshanks from the gun or just glue if on jji beams if not the silent floor guarantee is invalid

 

you will find when you come to actually lay the
flooring that the flooring will go writing side down
naturally, because you will start off with the
"female" sides to the first corner.




It doesn't work like that. If you turn it over, you can still have the 'female' edges in the corner.





Mr. Handyandy - really

 

don't use gripfill as its too thick. use a decent wood glue and you will find it will join together no problem.

 

> It doesn't work like that. If you turn it over, you
can still have the 'female' edges in the corner.

technically, you are right, but you would have to be some kind of ****** plonker to lay it upside down like that with a gap all the way along the wall/studs where the skirting would sit.

 

It doesn't work like that. If you turn it over,
you
[/b]can still have the 'female' edges in the
corner.

technically, you are right, but you would have to be
some kind of ****** plonker to lay it upside down
like that with a gap all the way along the wall/studs
where the skirting would sit.



No, the female bits will still be against the wall.



Mr. Handyandy - really

 

:^O

 

It doesn't work like that. If you turn it over,
you
[/b]can still have the 'female' edges in the
corner.

technically, you are right, but you would have to be
some kind of ****** plonker to lay it upside down
like that with a gap all the way along the wall/studs
where the skirting would sit.

think of the gap when you have pulled it another 10mm out for expansion. Come on handy get your head in gear

 

Look. Think of it this way.

murmac said the two female edges will be against the wall when you put the first piece in the corner(say long side against the right hand wall), Yes ?

Now turn the board over and lay it long side against the wall in front of you(short side against the right hand wall) and the two female edges will STILL be against the walls, but the board will be upside down.

Same as if you started in the left corner of the room, you would have to turn the board over.

Mr. Handyandy - really

 

Ah! but, the groove 'the female side' is bigger on the top of the board, hence =


technically, you are right, but you would have to be some kind of ****** plonker to lay it upside down like that with a gap all the way along the wall/studs where the skirting would sit.

 

Ah! but, the groove 'the female side' is bigger on
the top of the board, hence =


technically, you are right, but you would have to
be some kind of ****** plonker to lay it upside down
like that with a gap all the way along the wall/studs
where the skirting would sit.




What gap ??????



Mr. Handyandy - really

 

chip off the block


think of the gap when you have pulled it another 10mm out for expansion. Come on handy get your head in gear



If you install the board the wrong way down you'll inherit a bigger gap! won't ya.


How FIK are your skirtings Handy?

 

Mr HA are you being serious ?

if you set the boards back 10mm off the wall, (grooved side to the wall with the writing down) this allows a 15mm skirting to sit on top with no gap.

if you turn the boards upside down (ie with the writing on top ) you will end up with something like a 30mm gap between the wall and the top surface of the board

 

chip off the block


think of the gap when you have pulled it another
10mm out for expansion. Come on handy get your head
in gear



If you install the board the wrong way down you'll
inherit a bigger gap! won't ya.


How FIK are your skirtings Handy?




Why ?

Both ways will have female sides on both walls. Where's the gap bigger ?


Mr. Handyandy - really