Create New Inspection Chamber to Access Previous Junction for Rodding

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by Blueberry100, Dec 10, 2016.

  1. Blueberry100

    Blueberry100 New Member

    HI, I have a kitchen extension built over an inspection chamber. Looking into this chamber, there is a junction where two pipes (from kitchen and upstairs bathroom) drain into a bigger pipe that then carries on outside of the extension (no neighbouring houses are using the bigger pipe - just me). If I cover over the existing chamber and create a new inspection chamber just outside of the extension (i.e. accessing the bigger pipe) in order to create a new rodding point for the junction upstream, is this sufficient to cover any blocked drain issues? In other words, is it possible to rod a junction point (i.e. with branch pipes) from a point further down? How would you control which pipe you rod (kitchen or bathroom) if you were accessing the junction remotely? Just trying to see whether this is a viable solution. The objective is to seal off the old inspection chamber and tile over it completely. At the moment there is a raised and sealed inspection chamber at scree level inside the extension. Thank you.
     
  2. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Remove old chamber completely, & realign pipes, otherwise it might come back to haunt you.:eek:

    Years ago, a chap built a kitchen extension over a chamber, he covered it & sealed under concrete,screed & tiles, several years later he had a blockage, he rodded from a new chamber towards old chamber, rods came apart in old chamber, I ended up digging almighty big hole in the kitchen floor to sort problem, the smell was through the whole house, not nice.
     
    Joe95 likes this.
  3. Blueberry100

    Blueberry100 New Member

    Thanks. Any idea how much it would cost to re-align the pipes (ballpark figure)? And is it not too late to do that after concrete and scree floor is already in? We are at scree level now, before tiling happens. Our options are to tile over it completely (meaning we'd ruin the floor if we ever had to get to the inspection chamber, which would remain accessible from just under the tiles), or tile in such a way that the inspection cover remains visible and you can easily access it. We very much don't want it to be visible as it is would be smack in the middle of our new showroom kitchen!
     
  4. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Bad planning, seen this same problem many times over the years..

    Sadly, I fear it is, unless you want to cut a hole in your new concrete floor & sort problem, the pipe may never block, but you can't 100% sure.

    Wouldn't have thought it would have cost much to sort out before concrete was laid, definitely cheaper than having to sort if it ever blocked in the future.
     
  5. Blueberry100

    Blueberry100 New Member

    Thanks, the problem originates with the project manager for our extension, who told me that the inspection cover was smaller than it turned out to be. I thought I could hide it under a tile but when it arrived (after the concrete had been laid), it turned out to be a large, rectangular tray-like shape which no tile will cover!
     
  6. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Having any double sealed manhole cover within a kitchen, or ultily room is not a good idea,especially if someone removes the lid while you got a blockage, not a pretty sight ankle deep sh** running through a kitchen & down the hallway.:eek:[​IMG]
     
    Joe95 likes this.
  7. Joe95

    Joe95 Screwfix Select

    To give you an idea, I have an existing chamber in my garage which where i will be starting a side extension at some point. A good mate of mine (general builder) said I'd be looking at around £3k to move the chamber, Of course i am doing it myself so i will be hiring a digger to excavate the new channel. This is moving back about 8 meters to get it into the garden, 1m behind the where the new extension will be. There is also enough fall to do this, as some properties do not have the pipe fall to allow chamber moving. My local BC have given me details on how is should fill the old chamber and install the new one.:)

    Another option that i explored was a 'Stub stack' which allows for rodding, but would let everything out if it got blocked.

    Double sealed chambers are an absolute nightmare in every way. I have cleaned numerous ones after they become blocked and the smell that gets into the house sits for days, even with windows and doors open. It is a really disgusting thought, and not something you want in your house.

    One of the ones i have opened bubbled up, so the whole kitchen was about 2 inches full of ****! Customer not very happy and me trying to unblock the chamber sat in their waste.:eek::oops:
     
    KIAB likes this.
  8. Blueberry100

    Blueberry100 New Member

    Indeed. The only saving factor is that nobody else's stuff is going into that pipe - just ours. When we opened the drain it was very clean and we have been living here for 6 years. It's a gamble though - I understand that.
     
  9. Blueberry100

    Blueberry100 New Member

    Thanks Joe. That's the first idea of cost that anyone's given me. It's quite expensive! Any clues about rodding from further down the line instead? I imagine it would be cheaper to create a new inspection chamber just outside the extension, but I haven't been able to get an answer to my rodding question, i.e. can you rod a junction point further up from a new inspection chamber? Do the drain cleaning companies have ways of accessing different branches higher up? Thanks.
     
  10. Joe95

    Joe95 Screwfix Select

    I assume you mean going in towards the front of the pipework, it is always preferred to rod back to front, but is possible to rod going back up the pipework. A corkscrew drain rod attachment would do this quite nicely, just slowly pulling away at everything until it eventually collapses and frees the blockage. Possible, yes. Preferred, no:)

    Unfortunately, big drain cleaning companies prefer to use jets for everything now, which means they will charge much more to unblock the drain, as you cannot jet 'up' the pipework. They would have to do manual labor, which is rare for them:rolleyes:
     
  11. Blueberry100

    Blueberry100 New Member

    The rodding would happen from what used to be the patio (now the extension) towards the back of the house where the pipes are coming out from. Not sure whether this is back to front or front to back! To be honest, if it is at all possible to clear the blockage from a new inspection chamber further on down the line, I will absolutely consider this as a solution to my problems. Surely this would be cheaper than moving/re-aligning the drains themselves (remembering that my extension is already built)?
     
  12. Joe95

    Joe95 Screwfix Select

    Where does your main pipe leave the property, back,front or side?
     
  13. Blueberry100

    Blueberry100 New Member

    Back of the house. But how, for example, would they ensure that their corkscrew drain rod attachment goes up the bathroom pipe (if that is blocked) rather than the kitchen pipe (if that is clear)? When the drain rod is inserted in the new (outside) inspection chamber and makes its way up the pipe to the old inspection chamber with the different branch pipes flowing into it, how do they control where the rod will go then? Thanks.
     
  14. Blueberry100

    Blueberry100 New Member

    Sorry, thinking about it, the main pipe comes out of the back of the house and then makes a left turn. It then carries on to the neighbour next to us.
     
  15. Blueberry100

    Blueberry100 New Member

    Joe, do you know the type of tradesman I need to speak to give me advice on this? I called Dynorod but they are only interested in either doing a camera survey or dealing with a drain blockage. Many thanks.
     
  16. Joe95

    Joe95 Screwfix Select

    This makes it clear, so my post referring from front to back means the front of the pipe is the 'front' and then following the pipework into the furthest point into the house is the 'rear'

    The bathroom pipe could be rodded from there, as it is a large pipe and (if the bathroom is upstairs) will usually be the same one as the stack vent.

    The kitchen would be the problematic one, as there would be no large pipes that could have a rod pushed down, as in a bathroom you have the big soil stack, in a kitchen the largest pipe would be a 40mm plastic waste. A Stub stack would be worth considering here, as it would allow for rodding in the kitchen without needing to access the chamber.
     
  17. Joe95

    Joe95 Screwfix Select

    A good general builder or a plumber, both should have the knowledge of working out this problem.

    Your local building control would be the best to ring if you are trying to work out what options you have.
     
    KIAB likes this.
  18. Blueberry100

    Blueberry100 New Member

    Thanks.
     
    KIAB and Joe95 like this.
  19. Doall

    Doall Active Member

  20. Doall

    Doall Active Member

    I did one charged customer 2k
     

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