I am having a problem with a dishwasher cutting out power to the under counter socket. The socket itself is on a fused switch spur, the fused switch being above the counter. It seems that when the dishwasher is run for five or ten minutes then the appliance cuts out, no power no lights. Checking the double socket there is no power getting to it whatsoever. Everything has been changed, the fused switch, the socket, the dishwasher plug but it continues to happen. I was able to work out that rewiring the fixed switch reset the problem and power was restored, only for it to cut out again but not on every dishwasher cycle. Sometimes it ran for four or five cycles before cutting out again. It does not trip the main fuse board. I have now managed to isolate the problem to the neutral wiring as all I now have to do to restore power is remove the two neutral wires (load and output) and power is restored for a while before it cuts out again. I have run the dishwasher from another socket for a few cycles and it hasn't cut out there so I can only presume that it is an issue with that spur. Has anyone got any ideas because I am now out of them!
As you have changed the spur...i would check the actual conductors of the cables to the spur...and from the spur to the socket. To do this ...power off at board...check dead.....(take accessories off) hold the insulation and with pliers, grip the copper conductor and pull each one in turn...you may have a break in one of the conductors. Also find where the spur is being fed from and check that accessory and cabling. RS
It could be nothing to do with the wiring supplying it. It could be a faulty dishwasher. It seems the most likely reason to me.
Do you need a fused switch, you could just use a 20A switch. I'm assuming the dishwasher has a fused plug attached.
UN....dont worry i am always reading posts tto quickly... too late and night and after too many vinos and missing the point...lol RS
Carl......could you elucidate........your points have no bearing on the symptoms that the OP reports? RS
Un...the Op said that the socket fed via the spur goes dead........NOT the dishwasher. The OP said...it works perfectly when used in another socket ! What are you drinking ? Can I have some of it ?.... In solving a problem of this sort, the grand thing is to be able to reason backward.(Sherlock Homes) We must fall back upon the old axiom that when all other contingencies fail, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.(Sherlock Homes) lol Rs
I had something similar last week, clothes dryer and washing machine wouldn't work, both fed from the same double socket outlet. I found the socket was fed from a switched fcu on the other side of the kitchen, the neutral side had gone o/c. I told her that there was really too much load on the fcu but of course she came back with the usual answer, "well it's been working like that ok for the past 15 years". I replaced the fcu and advised her not to use them both at once.
Sen lets hope the Op comes back with the final outcome on this one as there has been a deafening silence here. RS
It certainly seems like an intermittent open circuit. He says taking the neutrals out of FCU and placing them in a terminal block restores power. Perhaps moving the cores behind the FCU in order to do this is enough to get the fracture closed again for a time, until a sustained current flow.
Actually doesn't mention terminal block, I made that assumption Removing and replacing them is still moving them around though.
To be fair to me, the wording of the OP is unclear as to exactly what has been changed. It reads to me that he has changed the socket plate, the plug on the appliance and the switched fused spur. And he then goes on to say that he rewires (separates and re terminates?) the spur to breath new life in to the socket for a random period. Now if the wire from the fcu to the socket is reasonably loose then it is usually simple enough to pull that cable out and pull another one in. I apologise profusely for blaming the poor innocent dishwasher in this case. There is a break in the neutral conductor that is opening and closing. Opening under load, and closing again off load. Deduced in true Sherlock Holmes style.
I have been told of an instance where a screw was in a lighting cable and the lights switched on but got dimmer and dimmer until they eventually went off. When the electrician went to have a look (as yet he didn't know about the screw), he tested the supply to the lights and yes he found the voltage gradually dropping, any way to cut a long story short just by chance he glanced at the stairs and could see a screw head glowing brighter as the lights dimmed, the cable was behind the skirting board and over time the screw had worn into the cable and a high resistance short was created thus slowly cutting power to the lights. Also I didn't realise he had changed the fused spur so I was saying to change the fused spur with a 20a switch.