Does anyone know anything about cookers?

Did you say how many ohms the resistance of the element came out as?

Mr. HandyAndy - Really

 

Yes, I meant that white block. Ok, so you've tested it and it appears to be ok.

(And, yes, no need to test the similar one on t'other knob.)

By WD40, I mean to try and see if it's down to dirty or stuck contacts in the oven selector switch - knob 2. These controls work by having a series of cams on the knob's shaft which lift up copper sprung contacts as required. When the can is low, the sprung contact is meant to spring down and 'close' the contact. If dirt (or spark contamination/erosion) has settled on the contact faces, this could cause a high resistance and render it ineffective. This is chust a slight possibility, but perhaps worth trying squirting WD40 - or another contact cleaner - on to the workings you can see exposed. Rotate the knob at the same time.

See knob 2 - can you tell me what the symbols are on it? Do they suggest a top element, a bottom one, both together, fan only etc? Any chance of a straight-on pic to show this?

 

Therein would likely be your problem(as I said before). I would expect a quarter of that for an oven element.

100+ is way over.

If you can find the top element, test that to compare.

Mr. HandyAndy - Really

 

Ok, so there's definitely only one element for that bottom oven? Is it mounted at the top of the oven or on t'bottom?

I'm running out of specific things to suggest as I don't know what the individual terminals on that knob 2 control are.

I'd be inclined to try the following with your meter: place the probes on the two element terminals and set the meter to AC Volts. Try turning that knob 2 through every permutation whilst know 3 is at a high heat setting. Any voltage getting there? Probably not...

Ok, now try attaching one probe on a sound neutral terminal like where the mains cable first terminates when it comes in to the oven. That leave the other probe to move about and search for 'lives'...

See what you can find on that knob 2 switch (bear in mind of course that the power is on...). Try the brown wires first. Ok, when you find a 'live', see if the terminal directly in line with it on the other side of the knob becomes live when the knob is turned.

Especially test the wire that comes from that knob and goes to the third control - the heat 'stat. See if you can get a live voltage going to that 3rd knob and then see if it carries on to that knob's other terminal when that 'temp' knob is turned up beyond 'click'.

If so, carry on tracing - follow that other terminal to where it goes - safety overheat stat or the actual element.

What I'm saying up there is general fault-finding by picking up an early 'live' wire and then tracing it as it goes through the oven and the switches. In other words, a logical process of elimination.

I hope you have the nouse to do this sort of thing without having to be told which terminal to go to next? If not, you shouldn't be doing this.

 

^^^^^DON'T DO THAT^^^^^

 

Unless you have a decent understanding of leccy and respect it 100%, then - no - you shouldn't be doing this.

Keep us posted, tho' - please let us know what the sparky finds.