Hello again all, another silly question time I have a pedestrian door access to the rear of my garage. I am going to replace the door as it is completely knackered, and the lining itself is not far behind it. The question is this - its a slightly unusual size opening, and I want to be able to have as much of the space available as possible. Brick to brick it measures 960x2030. Not so worried about the height, but Id like to keep as much width as possible. I am thinking of making my own lining as I would like to fit a 915mm wide door (solid hardwood one for a bit of security) in there and cant find any premade linings that size, however I do not know if having linings of 18-20mm thick will be enough for an exterior frame (taking security into account as well)? Also, what is the best type of wood for an exterior lining? The pedestrian access is underneath an awning so the elements do not make contact with it directly if that makes any difference So, what thickness should an exterior lining be, and what is the best wood to use for it? Thanks again in advance
a tyical door lining is 32mm thickness, that's enough to take a 25mm screw. An exterior hardwooder more like 45mm. Then there's also the door stop which could be done in 12mm. So the most you might get on door width is 875.
I think I would go for a 33" (838mm) door instead. 960mm opening Take off 15mm from opening size = 960 - 15 = 945mm Minus door width = 945 - 838 = 107mm. 107 - 6mm (for door clearance 3mm each side) = 101mm So look at using 50mm thickness timber (hardwood), door stops will need to be added. Does the door open inwards or outwards?
Fitted in some fire door frames. Was supplied with the top and the sides. Had to cut frames for the doors, allowing 8-9mm extra for the door clearance. As they as fire door frames, they have been routed out for intumiscent strip, something that would be useful, or draught excluder. Want to stop drafts Mine are made from redwood, in these 4 weeks the timer has moved, so would recommend using hardwood or engineered wood. My B&Q sell engineered wood sold under the Claymark brand (made in NZ).
that's reasonable to fit it soundly and securely. 960-838 or 960-840 = 120 120/2 = 60 either side for the lining, give or take . which I might elect to do if fire and security are paramount. But the least should be 32 lining to take the weight of what may well be a hefty door that is going to take the occasional battering. A door blank and edgings might also stand in for the purpose.
Hi Altered. Is there any reason why the hinge screws cannot be driven right through the thinner lining and into the blocks? I can't see any particular issue with using 18mm linings if this provides the significant advantage of a wider opening. By 'linings' I mean plain timber 18mm thick x whatever width is required, to which the doorstop is then added afterwards. Hardwood is best, but softwood is fine as it doesn't get much direct rain - and provided you soak it in a good quality preserver. Once cut to size, I'd also bond it to the brick facing (using something like StixAll) as well as using the normal fixings. It ain't gonna shift easily after that. Then drill the hinge screws right through and plug them into the wall behind. Possible?
Cheers all for your responses The door currently opens inwards but I am probably going to change the direction and have it open outwards just so that the boss can fit a tumble dryer behind where the door currently opens. The entry at moment is a small corridor of around 2000x2200 before it opens out in the main garage space so there is a bit of room for those white goods she wants there but obviously the door opening inwards poses an issue. I would prefer as large a door as possible, however I also want it to be secure at the same time. If I need to drop down to a 838 instead of a 915 for the sake of security and longevity, then I am fine with that. You guys know what you are talking about more than me, so I will take advice from you guys as to the best method and material for this to be done. @Jitender - thanks for the example detailed there - appreciated and it makes perfect sense
I would go with the advice from DA. 18mm (probably pine) for the liner, you can put as many fixings as you need. I'd fix each hinge with two short screws into the liner, and two all the way through into the brick/block. Try to set the hinges so they will straddle two bricks(one masonry fixing in top hole into one brick and one in bottom hole of hinge into next brick-two short ones in middle two holes). Or centre the hinges in blocks. Three hinges. Remember that outside doors need more gap. Mr. HandyAndy - Really
Why do people keep referring to doors in silly imperial to metric conversion sizes? Why can they not refer to them in the obvious imperial sizes, that they have been made?
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