drip drip from toilet compression fitting

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by brush-head, May 25, 2009.

  1. brush-head

    brush-head New Member

    Whenever I've had to do any work on our bathroom loo I've had an issue with the isolation valve (LH elbow) fitting. I just fitted a new float valve & it's OK but I get a drip drip from below the fitting where it mates with the valve stem coming out the bottom of the cistern.
    I replaced the previous fibre washers with a nylon one & while that has improved things I've still got this drip drip.
    The connection is straight on to the plastic fitting. No ptfe tape, no hemp etc. Should I consider that?
    The isolating valve part of the fitting is very fine as to whether it's on or off too & I wonder whether this fitting might need replacement - hard water area & the valve's been on there for about 15 years.
    Advice please to a not very good DIYer.
  2. tightenit

    tightenit New Member

    Hope you've not x threaded the metal nut onto the plastic valve inlet. Old 'uns use a fibre washer or ptfe tape around the neck of the fitting, squeeze it tight gently. New 'uns, JG speedfit tap connector - job done.
  3. brush-head

    brush-head New Member

    many thanks tightenit.
    I'll try the ptfe as I'm an old'un!
    Defintely not cross threaded as I start the thing off by hand & fairly gently try to get a good mate to the join.
  4. ThreadJacker

    ThreadJacker New Member

    Fluidmaster do a 'pro' version of their side/bottom entry valves with an idiot proof brass shank.

    Fluidmaster every time for me. ;)
  5. ThreadJacker

    ThreadJacker New Member

    Sorry brush-head I wasn't calling you an idiot.
  6. Captain Leaky

    Captain Leaky New Member

    just smear LSX on the threads before assembly.
  7. tightenit

    tightenit New Member

    That should do the trick.It isn't the backnut from the ballvalve weeping down the threads onto the top of the nut is it?
  8. brush-head

    brush-head New Member

    Thank you all for your replies. The actual problem was where the valve changes direction before the actual joint with the ball valve stem coming out the bottom. This was the bit actually leaking. This bit of the valve has a thread connection but no way for a spanner to tighten it up. The only way to do it tighter than my feeble hands can do is with a pair of pliers. That worked. The isolating bit still doesn't turn things off totally so at some point I'll call a plumber in.
    BTW I didn't take offence at the idiot proof reference - too old to be affected by unintentional gaffs. Any way probably right - I hate plumbing jobs much better with electrics & computers (latter is what I've done for the past 30+ years anyway).

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