Electrical Connections for Domestic Air Con Unit

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by Damian30, Dec 16, 2014.

  1. Damian30

    Damian30 Member

    Hi,

    I'm in the process of installing a domestic air con (inverter) unit. Max load is 4.4amps so I have agreed with my electrician to take the connection via an internal fused spur from one of the ring main sockets.

    The electrician hasn't connected up one of these units before and he was happy just to take a feed from the FCU directly to the air con unit. I suggested it would probably be useful to have a (rotary isolator) switch next to the unit and he said fair enough. I agreed to pick up the isolator and we agreed that we would sort things out when he comes back. However, I thought I'd check if anyone on here has any experience of connecting up these units as I wanted to double check that the following is an acceptable approach ton the connection:

    • 2.5mm T&E from socket to adjacent internal FCU (with 10amp breaker as per unit manufacturer)
    • 1.5mm 3 core NYY-J through wall from FCU and short distance up the wall into rotary isolator with suitable gland (hole in wall sealed with silicon)
    • Craig & Derricott 25amp, 2P, IP66 rotary isolator (or similar good quality isolator)
    • 1.5mm 3 core NYY-J from rotary isolator with suitable gland and into air con outdoor unit (probably about 0.5m cable length required
    I thought NYY-J cable would be acceptable as mechanical protection is not required (unit is looked away down side of property and minimal cable lengths required, with the cable offering UV protection.

    I wasn't sure whether I would be better using a short length of 20mm conduit and a 1 way terminal box to cover the wall entry (1.5mm T&E could then be used) would be better but there would be minimal distance required to the isolator.

    Any thoughts would be appreciated as I want to make sure that my electrician's thinking is similar to those with more experience with these units.

    Many thanks for your time.

    Damian
     
  2. flateric

    flateric Well-Known Member

    Can we have some pics of the equipment ???????
     
  3. flateric

    flateric Well-Known Member

    I have never done a domestic install only commercial industrial ........... Normally the feed comes direct from the CU to an outside unit into IP rated rotary isolator then back feeds into the indoor unit via the connections in the compressor, then there needs to be a DP isolator installed next to the indoor aircon for isolation purposes. Now you need to take into account the kick back on the compressor this 3 to 4 times the amount of normal current draw so you will need an MCB type C at least. If it is one of the ready made up units then follow the instructions included :)
     
  4. Damian30

    Damian30 Member

  5. flateric

    flateric Well-Known Member

    You need a proper installer for that. The units are pre gassed to a certain pipe run if you get any water into the system it will be well and truly fooked
     
  6. Damian30

    Damian30 Member

    It's all commissioned properly but was done off a plug. Just need a permanent electrical connection now, hence original post
     
  7. flateric

    flateric Well-Known Member

    I have done a few installs but never plugged one in :) As you say above yes I would install a dedicated feed ...... But others opinions may differ, but that is the way I would do it upload_2014-12-18_7-48-9.jpeg
     
  8. sparky Si-Fi

    sparky Si-Fi Screwfix Select

    Alarm bells rang when I see the max current as you stated as 4A which is in fact 4.4KW

    That's 19 Amperes on full chat!

    This will cause an in-balance on your ring final no too mention a poor design on the decision of your, electrician.

    As you state:

    Max load is 4.4amps so I have agreed with my electrician to take the connection via an internal fused spur from one of the ring main sockets.

    Are you doing this work or is this Electrician doing it as if you have employed him, you needn't be in here stating what is going to be happening in this amount of detail

    Something s not right here at all. . . . .

    My design would be a type C breaker from the board via rotary Isolator and from there SY flex to the compressor

    Heating Capacity (kW) (nominal)4 (1.8 - 5.5)
    Cooling Capacity (kW) (nominal)3.5 (1.4 - 4)
    Heating Capacity (kW) (UK)3.32 (1.5 - 4.57)
    Cooling Capacity (kW) (UK)3.47 (1.38 - 3.97

    This work is also notifyable to building control, but like a lot of things now do what you want, but you cannot say We told you so

    Si
     
  9. Are you sure you guys read it correctly? I read it as starting current 4.4A, running current 4.4A with a max current of 8.5A. Or is it me?
     
  10. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    there are 2 tables (indoor and outdoor) where they state the fuse rating is 6a and 10a for each device.
     
  11. sparky Si-Fi

    sparky Si-Fi Screwfix Select

    Might have to retract some of my last post owing to the other table,

    Separate supply still for the compressor 8.5A running current which is still OTT for a ring final IMHO and it seems the internal unit is fed form this as well, so it still would have to go on a dedicated supply.
     
  12. Damian30

    Damian30 Member

    Thanks for the replies.

    The problem I have is that the CU is the other side of the house from where the outdoor unit is located and where the supply is needed. I'm guessing it would be quite an invasive job to run a dedicated feed?

    I will definitely be using an electrician to do any work, the problem is that I get a different view from each local guy I speak to, so wanted to try and get a definitive view on the forum. It is looking like this air conditioning thing was a bad idea after all, even though I thought it would be an efficient solution.
     
  13. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    Damian,
    If i understand correctly, the unit needs a 16 amp supply. This should be a dedicated circuit from the consumer unit purely for this, and this alone.
    As for the amount of work involved this will really depend on the amount of work involved to get the cable installed and your existing installation (and if its up to an additional RCD circuit).
    Why not get a few quotes in from approved electricians and go from there.
     
    flateric likes this.
  14. Damian30

    Damian30 Member

    Fair comment.

    Just to clarify (although it probably doesn't change anything) it only need a 10 amp fused supply. The indoor unlit takes its power from the outdoor unit and this is within the 10 amps.
     
  15. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    that would still need its own supply. 2kw is the best practice limit (just over 8 amps) to be connected via a plug. there are things we all use around and over this on a daily basis, although its usually in short bursts (like a kettle)
     
  16. flateric

    flateric Well-Known Member

    Don't forget the kick back on the compressor this can be 3 to 4 times the running current you could be doing some carpet treading resetting the MCB on your ring main. Still agree with the above posts it needs to be a dedicated supply.
     
  17. flateric

    flateric Well-Known Member


    The indoor unit is fed from the outdoor unit fats
     
    FatHands likes this.
  18. Damian30

    Damian30 Member

    Ok, thanks - I'm a bit stuffed here then unless we bash the house around a bit to fit a new cable!

    I was hoping that with a typical current around 4 amps and the absolute maximum being 8.5 amps I might be able to get away with it. These inverters are supposed to be more efficient than the air con units of old, so was hoping it would be a painless install.

    Oh well...
     
  19. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    Good point Flat ;)
     
  20. stateit

    stateit Screwfix Select

    Each with own supply from the CU with rotary isolator.

    3 units done earlier this year.:

    [​IMG]

    One of the dining room units:

    [​IMG]
     
    FatHands likes this.

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