Extra long meter tails (10m) at least.

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by James Harte, May 3, 2016.

  1. leesparkykent

    leesparkykent Well-Known Member

    Its not a belief its fact.... The association of meter operators which pretty much all the big meter operators are signed up to and are in agreement on the fact that the MOP can stipulate the maximum length but shouldn't be over 3 meters. Anything over 3 meters should have a switch fuse upfront.

    Quoted from them below

    The meter tails should be as short as possible. Different metering companies have different policies but the length should always be less than 3 metres of cable from the cut-out through the metering equipment to the consumer unit. A example may be 1m of cable from the cut-out to the meter, then 1.5m from the meter to the consumer unit. The meter tail cable size must be consistent. BS7671 Reg. 434.2.1 gives some guidance. If the consumer unit is required to be further away, then a switch-fuse unit should be installed close to the meter and a sub-main compliant with BS7671.

    Quoted from the NICEIC below

    Answer:
    The maximum length of meter tails that can be fitted should meet the requirements of Regulations 433.2 and 434.2 in BS7671: 2008 Amendment 3:2015.

    Unless the meter tails are installed in such a manner as to reduce a fault to a minimum, they should not be longer than three meters.

    We would also suggest that the Distribution Network Operator is consulted as they may impose a maximum length of meter tails that can be protected by their cut-out fuse.
     
  2. Coloumb

    Coloumb Screwfix Select

    Links please!
     
  3. leesparkykent

    leesparkykent Well-Known Member

    for what?
     
  4. Coloumb

    Coloumb Screwfix Select

    For where your getting this information from. It's meaningless without some kind of verification.
     
  5. leesparkykent

    leesparkykent Well-Known Member

    The association of meter operators and the NICEIC FAQ's.....do your own homework!
     
  6. Coloumb

    Coloumb Screwfix Select

    Your the one with the beef, if you can't prove what your saying then you loose the argument and I win :).

    You could be making this up for all I know.
     
  7. leesparkykent

    leesparkykent Well-Known Member

    I've told you already where I got it from. If you are that dumb that you cant type it in to google then my assumption of you being stupid is correct.
     
    3phaseelectrics and Risteard like this.
  8. Coloumb

    Coloumb Screwfix Select

    I don't need to. In order for YOU to prove me wrong you need to verify your information. I can back mine up with bs7671.

    In the meantime, perhaps you might be kind enough to explain to me what's with three meters? Does the cut out fuse stop working after three meters? If I check the Zs at the end of the run, if the Zs is lower than as required for the type of fuse as per BS7671 will it not comply with BS7671? If I put a switch fuse in the same rating as the cut out, say 60 amps each, how does this make everything "safer"? Which would blow first in a fault? The cut out? The s/w? Both? How is that in any helping?

    I would put it to you that the smashie and nicey are wrong and so are the metering people, but then for you to consider that would put you well out of your comfort zone.
     
  9. leesparkykent

    leesparkykent Well-Known Member

    I don't need to prove YOU wrong. It may well comply with BS7671 but that isn't the point is it?
     
  10. Risteard

    Risteard Screwfix Select

    Perhaps their concern is not that it would fail to operate, but that they don't wish it to operate unnecessarily.

    As it is their property and they are providing the supply you are obliged to adhere to their rules for the provision of the service.
     
    leesparkykent likes this.
  11. Risteard

    Risteard Screwfix Select

    I would suggest it is a fact rather than a belief. :)
     
    leesparkykent likes this.
  12. Coloumb


    Fact the suppiers or cutout is ONLY for backup protection, and it is not for overload or short circuit protection of the meter tails.
    If you want to bodge it then fine have it on YOUR conscience if it all goes pear shaped,

    because of idiots like you we have part P
     
  13. Coloumb

    Coloumb Screwfix Select

    Where is this stated?

    So the fuse stops working after three meters? How does that work then?

    How is this a bodge? If the Zs complies with bs7671 at the end of the run how is this ANY different form ANY OTHER submain? How does that work then?

    Meh.
     
  14. Coloumb

    Coloumb Screwfix Select

    Well what is the point then? Do you blindly accept this stupid rule which doesn't seem to exist or do you have a mind of your own?

    "It's done like that as it's always been done like that"...A saying rife in the electrical industry.
     
    3phaseelectrics likes this.
  15. leesparkykent

    leesparkykent Well-Known Member

    Why is it a stupid rule? Because it doesn't suit you and you like to do the least possible?.....The point of it is the DNO own the equipment and that's what they want! why do you feel necessary to go against that? And for saying it's done because its always been done like that is rubbish. The reasons have been pointed out to you several times.
     
    Risteard likes this.
  16. Are these check meters
     
  17. Coloumb

    Coloumb Screwfix Select

    And I have pointed out to you that the "reasons" are stupid and pointless. What exactly are they? Because it's always been done like that? Who ever the meter people are and the nicey, they don't own the cutout or metering equipment. Why should the care less what they say? And what happens if you don't tell the supplier? Do they cut you off? With the smart meters they don't even need to send a meter man round to check. How do they check then? Every time I've asked they have told me "anything after the meter is nothing to do with us".

    Every time we have this argument, no one, no one at all, has ever been able to give any clear evidence that any of the suppliers have this rule at all.
     
  18. screwfix.peter

    screwfix.peter Administrator Staff Member

    Hi

    I locked this thread last night as this stated to be a less of a discussion and more of a argument.

    Please remember to treat other members with respect and name calling is not what is expected on this forum. If you disagree with someones opinion say so in a constitutive and civil manner.

    As advised in our moderation policy, http://community.screwfix.com/threads/moderation-policy.139188/

    Personal insults or abuse of other posters. Disagreeing with someone's point of view or about issues is fine - enjoy the debate. What we will not tolerate is lacing your argument with personal insults or trading abuse.

    When reading posts, try not to jump to conclusions and assume that offence is intended. An inherent problem with communicating on the internet is that facial expressions and tone of voice are absent, so it can be easy to assume that a comment which was intended as banter was a direct provocation - potentially leading to retaliation. Try to assume the best interpretation of a comment; the alternative would be to ban humour and banter, which wouldn't make contributing very enjoyable.

    Regards

    Peter
     
    seneca likes this.
  19. James Harte

    James Harte New Member

    Phew!

    I have been away for the weekend so I only saw the three pages of “discussion” this morning.

    It puts me in mind of the postulation that if you take 15 electricians and lay them head to toe in a straight line they still would not reach a conclusion :p

    When I started this thread I really believed that there would be a unique method of achieving what I wanted to do. I am surprised and dismayed that there should be such a wealth of disagreement about what is required.

    Even if I appoint a qualified electrician to install this how can I be sure that he is getting it right. If I appointed any one of you, another would say it was wrong. I am losing faith.

    I think the closest so far to an answer is in the DCUSA’s document (https://www.dcusa.co.uk/Documents/De-Energisation - FAQ Document v 1 0.pdf#search=de-energisationj) where it states…

    “A switch-fuse unit close to the meter and a sub-main compliant with BS7671 should be installed when the distance to the consumer unit requires more than 3m of cable.”

    OK I now know I would have to calculate the earth fault loop impedance and perhaps the voltage drop but other than that I can’t see a problem. Frankly I don't know how to do that (at least not yet) so any help would be appreciated.

    It would be of help if you could comment directly on my post No. 16 and perhaps this post.

    Otherwise I shall have to find another forum.

    I did not mean to start a war.:(
     
  20. nffc

    nffc Active Member

    You will find that in actual fact a majority of members agree with what is required. What you have quoted in your post above is exactly what is required and will be concurred by many members.

    As for design. Design is complex and takes many things into account. Things that cannot be done over a forum. It takes many years to become competent in this area and for a DIYer to misinterpret the advice given or not spot if something is incorrect could be fatal.

    If you were to find a member that is willing to give you a free design service then you would still need to concur that it is correct (which by your own admittance you cannot do) as I doubt said member would be willing to sign the design part of the Electrical Installation Certificate which should be issued in this instance.

    Good luck on any other professional electricians forum. I suspect the same advice would be forthcoming.
     

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